83

So...I didn't notice anything there before, but since I put in new anti-freeze (and a new water pump, thermostat, radiator and hoses), and taken some longer trips, there is a obvious spot where Toyota Red anti-freeze is leaking.

After a 3 hour trip, I can see where it's come out of where the block meets the head, right under and to the front of the exhaust manifold. It definitely doesn't look like it's from the upper radiator hose spraying there...it's coming from head gasket.

There isn't much. The dried red doesn't even make it all the way down the block, just almost to where the freeze plugs are.

So...how big of a deal? No oil in my antifreeze, no antifreeze in my oil. Is this one of those rare headgasket leaks that I can just keep an eye on and not stress about too much? Or is a ticking timebomb??

This is my 78, 20R.

Kiroshu

The new cooling system components more than likely induced some minor stress on the aged and tired gasket(s) still installed.

Are were sure its on the exhaust side and not the intake side...? If intake side..? Then I would suggest further investigation as there are multiple cooling passages/areas on the intake that can leak coolant.

Its defiantly not surprising but what is surprising is where the leak is located. An external head gasket leak is far better than an internal one... however keeping in mind no leak is acceptable... but just looking at the silver lining... .

It may even stop leaking after some of the new components settle in... however it may not... and may even get worse. Its defiantly something to watch very closely also keeping an eye on engine oil condition, and coolant level.

A future repair I recommend very soon.

83

Thanks.

Yeah, definitely exhuast side.

bruno4turbo

so is this a 22r? if so the timing cover is supposed to get a sealant put on it when the head gasket is replaced, or timing gaskets replaced. just on the top where the head/block/timing cover all meet.

any coolant leak is important to take care of asap. your cooling system has to work properly or you will blow the head. also the longer it's leaking it could cause damage (permanent leak) to the area.

it may not be a detrimental problem right now and you got some time, but watch that coolant level and if you at all start getting white smoke out your tail get home and shut her down because compromising the HG (which removing the timing cover already did) can spell trouble for the rest of it. your #1 cyl isn't that far from the timing cover.

I don't want to stress ya out over it, it doesn't sound that bad, but you might be getting a HG change coming soon. I'd say just prep an area for if it does go on ya, and arrange a second vehicle if you can and just watch her.


if/when you do the HG get the metal one (either copper or multi layer steel) its the upgrade for the stock graphite one.

83

Sorry, it's a 20R. No work has been done on the timing cover, only the water pump and oil pump.

I don't mind having a fresh headgasket and timing chain...but it's not a job I've done before and I'm a little intimidated by it. I definitely don't want to pay someone to do it.

So I'll watch it really closely for now, and start seeing if I can find someone with more experience and make a weekend project out of it.

Thanks!

83

Kiroshu

Nice picture.

Defiantly cylinder head leakage.

Bullet22r

It's not that hard once you get into it, you'll need a good manual, some tools, and a torque wrench. Just take pictures or note on where all the vacuum hoses are. I don't know if 20r head bolts are torque to yield, because 22r are not. Good luck though, and yeah it most definitely is coming from the hg.

83

Alright, thanks everyone.

Luckily on a 78, there aren't many vacuum lines to worry about! Putting the engine back into my 22R was a little more tough that this would be, but even that wasn't hard.

Hopefully I'll find someone around here with a little more experience to help me.

83

It's all back together and other than plugging a vacuum leak, everything seems ok so far...

Except the timing. If I have to advance the distributer all the way to get it to run somewhat smooth, should I assume I've got the distributer off a tooth or two?

rworegon

Time to break out the timing light. Yes, could be a tooth off...seems to be a pretty frequent issue here on re-assembly.

83

Yeah the last time I put in a distributer I did the same thing. But only found out because I brought it into a shop to have them dial stuff in and they told me. So I never fixed it myself.

Don't have a timing light, but will see if any of the local auto stores rent them.

83

Well I can't seem to get it right...it seems like there are two positions I can get it into which seem to be close to how it should look (as far as where the rotor is pointing), and I either have to have the distributer turned all the way one direction or the other to keep it running. Can't seem to find the middle spot...

It's running ok, but I know I should be able to advance the timing to where the engine is revving a bit, but the best I can get is an almost smooth idle.

Not sure why stabbing the distributer is such a difficult thing for me!

83

Which now that I think about it...if I had it too far one direction it should barely run, but too far the other direction and it should be idling too high...so obviously I'm missing something, since I think that right now it's only idling high enough with the distributer turned to a retarded timing, not an advanced timing...

Too bad I'm not really a mechanic!

83

Nevermind!

Two things...:

I watched a video on installing the distributer, and caught something I missed the first time around. Turn the engine to TDC in the direction that it runs. I was going counter clockwise, so there was probably a little slack in the chain and so I kept being a tooth off.

I turned the engine clockwise, and it seemed like the distributer went in at a slightly different angle.

BUT...the second thing. Kinda hard to get the timing right when you're only running on three cylinders! I pulled spark plug wires, one at a time, to see how it affected the engine. Wire #2 had no effect on how the engine ran when I pulled it.

So I pulled the plug, and I guess I had messed it up when I installed it. There was no gap at all. Fixed that, and now I'm running smooth, and the distributer isn't all the way one way or the other.



So now I just need to find a timing light and I should be dialed in.

mrjack

Zach,

Back to the headgasket leak. I'm experiencing a external coolant leak on my 78 20r on what appears to be the same spot as your picture above. Theres no sign of coolant and oil mixing. Now that your down the road, was the Headgasket replacement worth it?

Jack

83

Yes, of course. Don't want to mess with a leaking head gasket!

30,000 miles on the camper since doing the gasket, and everything is great. Of course I've since had the head rebuilt and so it has a fresh gasket again, but I did drive it 30,000 miles between the gaskets.

I don't see any reason not to do it.

moroza

Did you have the head machined, or at least checked it for warping?

83

Do you mean me, or mrjack?

As for me, I had it rebuilt.