OK, so here is my situation. The driving factor was always fixing/upgrading my front drum brakes, as a wheel cylinder is shot, or a spring is broken causing them, to bind at times. Steering is pretty bad too; I upgraded to stock power steering but need new spring bushings etc to diagnose further.

I have an '80 pickup, which from what I have read stock gearing for that year is either 4.10 or 4.37 - and drum brakes.

I purchased an '82 front axle off of craigslist, thinking there is a chance the gearing is the same as what I have now. Again, main driving factor upgrading the brakes and getting a seal/bearing kit for the knuckles and hubs. It's also nice having a spare axle so I can work on it while still driving the pickup.

I tore down the '82 axle, and it turns out that the gearing in this third is what seems to be the popular 571 upgrade. Way too tall for the mild build I want for this pickup! (31" swampers for now, 34 narrow swampers later)


So here's where the options start, and questions asked. What would you do?

1. Brake's plus, fix the brake problem and stick with drums for now, leaving the '80 axle under the pickup. Build up the spare '82 axle with something like 4.56s (and locker) for the future 34s and histeer setup. Look for post '85 or TRD rear axle and consider IFS hubs for front to widen stance. Worry about hub/knuckle rebuild later for the '80 and put new gear oil in '80 axle. Get new spring bushings, live with the crappy push pull steering and old springs.

2. Tear down '80 axle, rebuild hubs/knuckles as planned and get the LC + v6 brake upgrade (determining if drum and disc hubs are different). Worry about regearing and locking later, using the '82 housing and third for that. Again, stick with push pull steering, and get new spring bushings to see if it helps steering wheel freeplay. Truck would be down for the count for awhile..

3. Drive pickup as is for the meantime, gingerly, and use the torn down '82 axle and rebuild with new yukon R&P, scrapping/selling the cryo 571 gears. If my 80 pickup has 4.37s stock, i wouldn't be opposed to using those gears with 34" tires. 4.88s with 37"s under my CJ was perfect. 4.10s might be a bit short for 34"s however. If I were to go this route, I would probably lock at the same time. my 31's would work in the meantime, and I could upgrade to 34s at the same time as highsteer.

4. Look for someone with a stock 4.37 third who wants a 571 third. Continue rebuild on '82 axle with LC +v6 brake upgrade. Retain truck usability, driving gingerly

5. None of the above?! Greatly appreciate any feedback.. there are so many routes I could take, I'm not sure which one TO take!

cheers,
nick

 

Well, first bit of advice I will give you is that 4.88's and 37's is not the same as 4.88's and 37's on an old CJ. Very different powerbands and torque curves. General consensus is 4.88's are right for 33's and 5.29 is right for 35's or 37's.

I think if I were you I would determine the gearing you have and the hub differences/similarities between drum and disc. As far as the hub similarities, you should be able to use the '82 hubs on the '80 axle, unless the knuckles or knuckle balls are different. So maybe it's a matter of making the one axle you want out of the two you have.

Good luck, sorry I can't be more definitive help, just not familiar with the drum setup front axles.

 

Agreed! I Definitely didn't give details, but in the CJ I actually put a '98 4.0L w/Auto into, with full width axles. Looking into the transmission's ratios would be a good call in the diff ratio factor. Although, I do at some point down the road want to find a wrecked taco with 3RZ or 22RET, and do a complete swap so i don't necessarily want to adapt to the current 4spd! I'll look into what 4th gen trucks are doing for ratios.

Yep, thinking about just throwing the 82 hubs on the '80 axle, but would like to pull it and clean it up first. We'll see shortly!

Thanks for the input

 

3RZ and 5VZ Tacomas (since you said 4th Gen) are still running 4.10's and 4.56's. The powerband is still basically the same, just more power all the way across it. I downshift less in my '83 with a 22R, 33's, and 5.29's than I do with my 4Runner's 3.4, 33's, and 4.10's. There is a weight difference, but it's also almost 100 hp difference. It's the engine you have to keep happy, so base your gearing option on the engine, not the gearbox.

 

I purchased some parts from WabFab, Knuckle rebuild kit, wheel bearings etc. I think I'm going to tear down the '80 axle and use that third with the housing I have cleaned up and (now) painted. A ton more work, but I need to clear out the rickety steering and bushings anyways.

I think I'll clean up the '80 housing and get it ready for 4.88s and 34"s!

Anyone prefer a certain suspension? I'm going to look into who makes Stock+ springs, but also 3" for histeer down the road..