I cant find a spare rim right now so trying to repair the damaged rim from accident a few years ago. Turns out the spare i had wouldn't fit the front, so wrong rim

The lip on rim edge about 1 1/2 inch long was folded over from impact so couldn't get a large vice-grip on there. I used a steel bar and with a hand sledge got it to unfold some then more with the vice-grip. Pulled it over more with large adjustable wrench then a bottle jack with piece of wood on base to other side of wheel, jacked it up real well to get the contour back. Theres still a slight deformaty so thinking to heat to almost red hot so I can get the tire beading surface flat. I know I'll have to grind a rod to fit the curved part that the weights fit into and try and pound that right?

The wheel steel is strong but doubt heating will have a negitive effect. Anyone think heating with oxy/act torch is a bad idea?

 

If impact was that hard, I'd be concerned about rim being out of round and effecting driving.

 

Looking with my eye it seems ok and when using the bottle jack I saw the rim return to its shape as I released the valve so theres some resiliency to the wheel. Visual inspection shows theres no cracks in the weld where the wheel is welded, i'll be running the torch over the factory welds to see if cracks show. If its out of round a bit when I put the tire on I'll mark it for spare only, at least I wont have to walk home again

I just called ESAB a welding supplier to ask about heating the metal and the tech guy said it should be ok to heat.

It looks like not much in pic but with so little to grab onto becomes a challenge

ADDED; I formed my tool to curve of balance weight, heated it up and pounded that thing pretty good to look almost like before. I'll try and take a pic tomorrow . still needs one more smoothning then claning before paint. Got it pretty good in second pic. Have to get it cherry red and set it on a 1x piece of wood quick then pound it while moving the tool along the grove, the wood will give and allow the tool to drive the metal down to get the curve back.

Gotta search for the toyota wheel white paint name and touch up.

 

The tech guy was no doubt pulling info off a computer.

ESAB tech support is a joke.

Being it is on the bead most likely you will need a tube in the tire .

I hope your planning to only use it for a spare.

 

ESAB isn't what it was when they had more experienced guys but its free. I get what I pay for, right

Negitive vibes wont help my tire seal I decided to check the area where the bead seals and it still had a bulge so got that red hot and smoothed it out more. Will be using the grinder with a flap disc.

 

I've seen wheels with significantly bigger bends than yours hold air and balance out just fine.

However, the whole wheel may be subtly out of round in a way that you won't detect until you spin it. More likely with alloy wheels, though.

 

Heres a couple final pics. I did spend a bit more time on that area to blend it as close to flat as i could then sanded all with a flap disc 120 grit. got rid of the rust pits then painted but a shotty job, didn't even use primer cause the white is wrong but ok for a spare. Tire is under bed and feel safe to travel out of town now. (NO Inner Tube, LOL)

I have no fear of using the repaired wheel, its safe but think it could be very slightly tweeked cause the balance weights are opposit 180 deg on each side, might be normal with a cheap used tire also? At least will get me home.