Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Engine vibration

Old Mar 14, 2011 | 05:13 PM
  #41  
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Congrats banana!! I never did get around to putting my OEM mounts back in to see what happens. I suspect a large percentage of my "issue" is the LC motor mounts. I promise to report back when I get around to testing that..

I'm glad to hear these issues are getting resolved.
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Old Mar 15, 2011 | 11:06 AM
  #42  
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Congratulations!! I'm going to try and find some cheap OEM mounts and switch my LC ones out too. I'd love to keep the heavy-dutiness and have a quiet ride, but if I can't have both I'll take the quiet ride. Enjoy your road trip! I'll still keep everyone posted with my situation as I am able to resolve it.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #43  
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excellent. how long did the swap take?
i have a pair of new mounts sitting on the bench waiting for me to install.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 10:17 AM
  #44  
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Whenever I've installed motor mounts- both on my 1970 Chevy and my Toyota it took me longer than expected. I always have issues with the bolt holes lining up. I bought a round file for the bolt holes on the new mounts and I wouldn't have been able to install the LCE poly mounts without it. The holes on my engine block were way narrower than the ones on the mounts. You may not have as much difficulty with stock mounts, but I did with stock mounts for my Chevy. Let us know how it goes for you, ducatipaso, so I know what to expect with the stock mounts.
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 10:22 AM
  #45  
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It took me about 2 hours to do the motor mounts. I wasn't in any kind of hurry, but the hard part is on the drivers side (at least on my truck w/ the power steering). The alternator gets in the way of many of the bolts. It might be worthwhile to take the two bolts off the alternator and just remove it for the increase in workspace.

If I had to do the mounts again, I'm sure I could get it done inside of an hour..
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Old Mar 16, 2011 | 10:50 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by traveljoe
Whenever I've installed motor mounts- both on my 1970 Chevy and my Toyota it took me longer than expected. I always have issues with the bolt holes lining up. I bought a round file for the bolt holes on the new mounts and I wouldn't have been able to install the LCE poly mounts without it. The holes on my engine block were way narrower than the ones on the mounts. You may not have as much difficulty with stock mounts, but I did with stock mounts for my Chevy. Let us know how it goes for you, ducatipaso, so I know what to expect with the stock mounts.
yeah I went thru this with the trans mount on my truck. it was a real pain. a lift sure would be nice. :-)

I'll have the die grinder handy this time muwahahahaha
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 05:02 AM
  #47  
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Thanks guys! The difference is like night and day. It's so much more enjoyable to drive at highway speeds now. Just wish I had done this sooner!

The mounts weren't that difficult to change. It took me a while to decide how I was going to remove them, but once I got down to it, the actual R&R wasn't that time consuming; maybe an hour or so of wrench time. The passenger's side is a little difficult to get to with the air pump and it's hoses in the way, but if you take the ends off of the air pump, you can move them out of the way and should have enough room. I jacked the engine up using a block of wood underneath the front of the trans. There's also a small black plastic diaphragm near the throttle bell crank on the firewall that you'll want to either remove temporarily or slide forward. It has a few vacuum lines going into it and says "TEQ", aka, "To-yo-da". If you don't move this piece slightly forward, it'll press up against the bell crank when you lift the engine up.

Fyi - I bought the motor mounts from Rock Auto. They were the Anchor brand and cost around $6 each. Advance sells the same ones, but they want $25. Even after shipping, I still came out ahead buying them from R.A.
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 02:17 PM
  #48  
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heh those are the same mounts i bought
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Old Mar 18, 2011 | 06:24 PM
  #49  
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I took an idea from a member of the PBB and swapped only my passenger side LC Engineering motor mount back for the OEM one. HOLY COW! I've got a reduction of 80-85% in the vibration/resonate sound in the cab! It's actually nice cruising at freeway speed with the windows down.. I can actually hear the words to the songs on the radio without having it cranked!

I think leaving the LCE motormount in the drivers side provides a fair increase in stiffness to keep the motor/trans/transfer cases from rocking when under heavy (4wd loads) while still maintainin decent driveability. With my truck having the smog pump removed, it makes changing out the passenger side mount do-able within 20 min. or so. So the plan is to swap the LCE mount back into the truck for more traditional wheeling trips when I fully expect to load up the drivetrain, rather than the light trail use the truck sees on most weekends..

I'm stoked!
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Old Mar 19, 2011 | 09:12 AM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by JustDSM
...With my truck having the smog pump removed, it makes changing out the passenger side mount do-able within 20 min. or so...
maybe I'll wait and do both of these at the same time.
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Old Mar 20, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #51  
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I'm totally doing that! What a great idea! STOKED!
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Old May 8, 2011 | 01:00 PM
  #52  
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Thought I'd drop the link here, as this could be a item to look at while tracking down vibrations..

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f114...hasing-234940/
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 08:33 AM
  #53  
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I finally replaced the passenger side engine mount with an OEM one. Problem solved!!!
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Old Nov 15, 2011 | 10:18 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by traveljoe
I finally replaced the passenger side engine mount with an OEM one. Problem solved!!!
Glad to hear that!
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