Found my timing settings that Bryan told me to use... i knew it was a photo of a bar coaster.

Hey man... she really dirty

Dont mind oil presure... mixed the stock reader and the aftermarked one and smoked it...
she ran long enough to get a a/f reading...
disconnected my return line and no fuel came out.
so that's not great.
(one holley guy said none should, the other said it should at idol, both said it seemed like the regulator was the issue)
Got the idol turned down on the mechanical screw.
​And then blew a fuel line... and I think I smoked my digital fp gauge.... it's max is 100psi

No worries old83@pitcher.. apparently the wizard setup is not as important... so I've heard.

Oh, and unfortunately I couldn't get my old regulator out in one piece, but yeah the filter was dirty as hell.
So I put 4more gallons of fresh 93 Oct... ran it for 5 seconds without the new regulator installed. Then put it in.

 

welp, like I said. I'm kinda retarded...
the new regulator kept wanting to spring out... and when I got it all tight it wasnt straight anymore... got it kinda back to normal.... and she is purring. Filled it up and went an terrorized my local corporate company parking lot. (Never got a chance to dial in my rear brake actuator.)

So after awhile she started climbing fuel pressure again.. looks like i need to buy a couple regulators.

 

Not sure of this,but sounds to me like you really ought to blow out those fuel lines first. Your regulator had pretty much exactly the issue I suspected (all the black crud on the filter screen).
What are you doing for fuel filters? I got the Sniper "kit" that had the 100 micron and the 10 micron filters. Having dirty fuel get to the Sniper is a somewhat common problem. They are pretty finnicky about that. I also rean completely new hard and soft line that I blew out with some air before I ran any gas through them. I did not have the regulator problems.

When mine is running at idle I definitely have a decent amount of flow in the return line. At idle you really shouldn't be using any more fuel than me and it sounds like you probably have higher a GPM pump.

 

Alright, got my new regulator and got it installed correctly I think... seems to stay around 57-60psi.... Got the truck warmed up driving to the parts store and then sent her sailing down the highway, hit 85mph easily from ramp to ramp, stock gauge was climbing higher then I liked. (its in the thermostat housing) Sniper computer was reading 185 in the intake. 3 lights later and Im pulling back in my shop and gauge is in the red, Sniper climbed to 202. Overflow was full of coolant. I dont think this is carb related. First im wondering about the way my trucks coolant is piped, and should I bipass everything to test this.

I've replaced most hoses and have an aftermarket radiator and 16psi cap along with the fun part. A rear heater.


From passenger side of motor into supercharger. Top hose comes from the intake manifold and into the valve, then it sends coolant to both heaters and comes out of both heaters returning to the T that goes to the drivers side of the Motor

 

Glad it sounds like the sniper issue is worked out.
You are probably plumbed correctly, but I'm not sure because of the supercharger. Are the coolant lines from the supercharger and/or intake manifold plumbed "per the instructions"?
The likely main culprit is the thermostat. What temp rating and is it new (same time as super install)?
Also, I assume the AFR readings were good during the test drive? Lean during boost would definitely generate some extra heat.
I've been really happy with the 2 stage thermostat I put in a couple years ago. Expensive, but seems worth it to me at least. This: 2-Stage Thermostat OEM 22R/22RE (190 Degree) OEM Toyota P/N: 90916-03070 (lceperformance.com)
I believe I read somewhere that some of the aftermarket ones open further and flow better than others (or maybe it was the OEM one?), but I don't remember where I saw that.

This is a pretty cool build so keep us posted on how things work out for you!

 

So I just looked up on LCE site for the install.

1. 5. Modify the water by-pass pipe by hack sawing the steel tube flush with the flange. Tap the hole with a ¼-18 NPT pipe tap, and install a ¼ NPT pipe plug. Apply sealant to the threads prior to installing the pipe plug. Install the flange on the engine using a new Toyota gasket or RTV silicone. Secure with the original hardware.
   
2. The instructions I have read different
   5. Modification of the water by-pass pipes for the heater core is required. Cut pipe using hacksaw or tubing cutter to shorten and tie in with water hose to the lower intake manifold. You will have to purchase a J-Shaped 5/8" water hose to tie in to the center fitting to size down the metal water pipe.
   
   This is the same wording from what I can tell.
3. 8. Remove the heater hose fittings from the stock inlet manifold, and install it in the 3/8 NPT port on the underside of the blower manifold. Install one end of the 5/8 ID heater hose on this fitting and clamp securely. Plug the top hole with a 3/8 NPT pipe plug if it is not going to be used.

Figure 2: Relocation of Manifold Stud

The way I understood it was that the fitting from the motor went here. On the lower manifold. Then out of the center of the manifold goes to my heaters.... But rereading it. It doesnt make sense to me. But looking at my buddies 22r it looks to be ran that way. just with less stuff

 

This is what I buy, idk whats in there. It got changed not that long ago while I was chasing down issues, I cant get the other bolt off the front without stripping it... cause a socket doesnt fit... But I took off the oil cap and tried to get a wrench in there. frothy oil cap... So I guess I need to look into head gasket maybe... fml

 

Okay, topped her back off and went around nice an easy, I've got that sticky thermostat or the 4runner problem where it dumps cold coolant an doesnt let the thermostat open. Turned the truck off when it hit 205, let it coast for awhile, started it back up and good to go. Got up to 4psi boost on it... SPEEED!!!

 

Got my fingers crossed that your head gasket is good.
I used to have issues where the temp would really spike pretty high before opening, especially on initial warmup. The 2 stage thermostat cleared that up completely, at least for me. Seems like the small valve opens at a lower temp and allows some hot past so the main heats up quicker/more evenly.
I'm still not sure on your heater hose routing, but my recollection says that I have the water bypass head port blocked off and heater line goes from the bottom of my manifold to the heater valve/core and then back in to the manifold pretty close to the thermostat housing. This is on an Offy manifold though. Have you checked that your heaters are functioning properly?

 

Just ordered a new 2 stage, I usually buy 2 at a time. Damn they aint cheap no more. Ive had some hot rod guys tell me that youll get a little coffee carmel on the oil cap if you dont let your vehicle hit temp. And i move it out of the garage to work on other ˟˟˟˟ from quiet often. Rear heater is really hot. front one is okay, I think its the busted duckwork

 

Finnally back in town to play with my truck, new 2 stage thermostat solved my issue, fires right up doesnt get over 190f, havent driven it to much as i found out my rear tail harness needed to get rewired, But pulled her out today, got about 20min down the road and my fuel pressure climbed to 90psi..... apparently the regulator is bad again... Im just not gonna put the filter on the next one, I whish these things came out in one piece and where reuseable. they are so flimsy. Ive got a back up 1 already. But what else can I do first. Ive got an inline an filter i'll pull apart and clean, the fuel pump has a strainer type filter.
Obviously Im pulling way to much fuel through this carb, max I've seen is 50lbs/hr pump puts out 90.

 

Sounds line you're getting closer to having things dialed in.
Perhaps removing the filters, draining and blowing out the lines from the tank to the sniper would be worth the effort.
I ran all new hard and soft lines that I blew out with compressed after cutting and flaring, and I didn't have the issues with clogging the regulator. As stated before, crap in the lines is a pretty common problem with this efi system.

 

Welp destroyed my regulator getting it out, then pulled about my filter housing and dropped it. Smashing my fitting... got the new regulator put in. (No screen filter) blew out my lines... like you told me to do last time.... Then i take my part to the hardware store to find out what threads they are. Find the fitting for 27$.... i paid 30 $ for the whole filler kit... so i order another one and im driving home. My filter is 100 microns... holley sniper calls for 10 mircon filter.... so canceled my order and got a high flow 10 micron filter coming in...
im guessing that's my issue, but the 10 micron filter on the holley is on the return, so I've alreadybsucked in some parts smaller than 100 microns through the carb.

 

Welp got my 10 micron fuel filter in, chased down all the fuel leaks and been running around town the last couple days, fuel pressure seems to stay around 60psi, most fuel used Ive seen is almost 60gal/hr, she got 199F today pulling on the highway and my radiator cap opened up. So I got a new 18psi cap instead of the 16psi i had. There is a question I have about the hump in my system... does that need to be filled?

 

My setup is: Tank -> 100 micron filter -> 10 micron filter - > Sniper -> Tank again. Both filters are just inline, and setup so that, if the in tank pump ever failed, I could put the holley pump in there as well to limp it to where I could fix it.
Main culprit of high fuel pressure is restrictions in the return line and clogged screen on regulator.

I have similar issue with my coolant system. I try to park as "nose up" as I can when filling the system. I also installed one of the universal coolant flush/fill kits on the top hose to the heater core on the firewall. Just a plastic "T" with a cap on one leg. I think it was a Prestone thing. With the 2" body lift, the heater hose on the firewall is definitely the highest point in the system. Helps me get the air out some, but minimally helpful.

 

Welp still chasing the "stuck thermostat issue" I got a champions radiator, all aluminum. (its bad ass) I ran over the cap along time ago. Called them up and they are sending me a new one.. so if yall are tired of the ˟˟˟˟ty plastic/aluminum ones falling apart, hit them up.

https://shop.championcooling.com/Per...diators/Toyota

So maybe thats the issue, also i got a coolant bleeder T to put at the highest point in my system. (I didnt see the old garden hose flush system)

 

So does she pull up hills and into a head wind or what?

 

If I remember right she weighs in at 3600lbs now, and with my 35" tires 5.29gears I can hit 85+ between on ramps, speedo pegs at 85, and she ain't realy smooth or aerodynamic.
I'm not mad at the power at all, I can pass a semi if I want to, i just gotta get this thing reliable. Blew a fuel line earlier today and the new thermostat didn't keep it cold enough so radiator cap popped. I either still have a air bubble or my head gasket failed.

If I put this setup in a 2x4 i wouldnt be mad, but its mudding season and i aint reliable enough to do ˟˟˟˟. Yet hopefully

 

Oh and yes to your question

 

Piped around both my heaters to eliminate them. I've bleed out the system and it will be fine for a day then randomly spike, or blow coolant out the over flow. This test kit is suppose to turn yellow if combustion gasses are in the system, but I cant think of anything else other than putting a new headgasket on it. Any ideas, I got the new radiator cap on it and a new 2 stage thermostat, maybe I could go with a colder thermostat. like a 185f