Pre 84 Trucks 1st gen pickups

Carb mounting gasket?

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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 06:42 AM
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Carb mounting gasket?

I just got my rebuilt carb. It came with two paper gaskets. The FSM makes no mention of gaskets between the carb and intake. Do they go on either side of the plastic spacer between the carb & intake, or what? Do I even need them?
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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There were gaskets there on the one I just took off, I don't know if it's that way from the factory or not though.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 07:32 AM
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How were they set up? I haven't had the carb off my truck yet, but I pulled one off another '83, and it had a plastic spacer, maybe 1/4" thick (?), and no gaskets. Did yours have the spacer and gaskets? Gaskets on either side of the spacer, or what?

Thanks!
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:05 AM
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do you want vacuum leaks at the baseplate? use the gaskets on both sides of the spacer, metal and plastic don't seal well without a gasket.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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I'm pickin up what you're puttin down
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:13 AM
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Thanks!
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 08:20 AM
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The factory gaskets are glued to the insulator so when u get new gaskets you can either remove the old ones off the insulator or use them. I removed mine and let me tell ya its a pain in the ars. I wouldnt put new gaskets over the top of the old ones.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 09:59 AM
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Gaskets on both sides of the spacer on mine.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Well, I don't know if all carbs are the same, but here's what I've learned (since I got the new carb on over my lunch break): I should have taken photos, but my camera is dead....the spacer has a hole through it on the drivers side. I didn't look close but I think it's for the pcv. On the bottom of the spacer, two grooves run along the sides, out from the hole, and stop about half way down the sides of the spacer. Right where they end, there are holes in the intake.

If I had used the supplied gasket, it would have cut off the groves from the holes. I called my favorite Toyota's Only shop in Missoula, and after some research, they called me back and said that often carb rebuilders will send gaskets that, if used, will plug off vacuum passages. Toyota no longer makes this specific gasket for sale, but they sell the plastic spacer with the correct gaskets pressed & glued to either side of the spacer (like crazykooter mentioned).

After looking closer I can see that there is a gasket on that side, although it's torn off just a little bit in one corner. I figure good enough for now...

Different model carbs may be different, but this was the case with mine. I noticed the '83 I pulled my other carb off had a totally different spacer. No grooves. Also my spacer has built-in metal things that are in the main holes, going down in towards the intake. To evenly spread gas & air, or what? I don't know. The spacer I pulled off the other 83 did not have these. Maybe my truck is "special".

Last edited by 83; Mar 19, 2009 at 01:12 PM.
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Old Mar 19, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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I also have the grooves in mine but if I remember correctly when I removed the old glued on gaskets the grooves were covered up. Not sure how find out for sure if they need to be open. The slot running to the pvc system has to be open tho.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 05:44 AM
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Yeah, it just made too much sense to me to keep them open. The truck can possibly run fine without them, but obviously they were meant to carry something, gases or whatever, along the grooves and into the holes in the intake. May just be one of those things like a lot of the other emissions stuff; supposed to be there and maybe important for passing emissions, but not necessary for the truck to run ok.

Either way, my truck's running quite a bit better with my new carb!
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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Well, I like to try some things out first before posting a question but I won't have internet all weekend and want to be working on the truck, so: what should I be looking for here---

The new carb has been working fine up till this afternoon. The idle is a little high, like 1200. I tried turning the idle speed down but it's as far down as it will go. The screw still turns out but it has no effect on the idle (I can raise the speed with the screw, but turning it out has no effect).

Today, it's pretty warm (50*F), and it was driving fine. I stopped for about 3 minutes at a friends, and when I started it back up, it was shaking a bit. Did that almost the whole 2 mile drive home, at least when I was at stop signs. After being home for about 20 minutes, I started it again, it took a few seconds of cranking to turn over. It then had kind of a surging idle. Up to 1500 or more, down to 1000, and when it would stop surging it was back to being kinda shaky.

The glass shows that the fuel level is up at the very top of the "ok" area. I think it's within the ok area, but definitely up at the top of it.

So, what should I check for this weekend? I will likely mess with the idle mixture a bit to see if I can drop the idle speed, and as far as the stuff happening today, I'll check for vacuum leaks. I'm not 100% positive I got the HAC stuff completely correct...vacuum diagram was slightly different that my set up, but I'll work on that. Does it sound like a vacuum leak at all? I'll spray some carb cleaner around to see if I can find leaks, but is there anything else I should check?

Sorry, long post..
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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The idle is easy to adjust if your turning the correct screw. If your adjusting the one on the linkage then screw that back in a bit. The is another screw up and right of that one on the carb itself. That screw is the one that will adjust idle correctly. As for the shaking I would say your timing may be a tad off and if its a rebuilt carb from a bigger carb rebuilder he prob took the plug out from the idle fuel mixture screw which is at the base of carb. Depending on how its all set up including idle speed/fast idle and timing , it may be turned in to far. As a normal I set mine to bout 6 turns out then fine tune from there.
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 02:29 PM
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Thanks! Yeah I know which one is the idle speed. I can get it to speed up, but not go any slower. The plug over the idle mixture screw is gone, so I can mess with it to see if it's set right.

Would any of that effect the level in the sight glass? Or is that only adjusted by messing with the float?
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Old Mar 20, 2009 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by 83
Thanks! Yeah I know which one is the idle speed. I can get it to speed up, but not go any slower. The plug over the idle mixture screw is gone, so I can mess with it to see if it's set right.

Would any of that effect the level in the sight glass? Or is that only adjusted by messing with the float?
To adjust the float level u need to remove the top of the carb. As for adjusting the idle fuel mixture it can mess with idle but I wouldnt mess with it too much unless u have done it before. I would say if your idle is still to high back off the linkage screw some 2. Mainly tho I would think its ur timing which has ur idle to high. That would make sense with the other issues your having.
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 05:46 AM
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Ok. I'll call the place that sent me the carb today. I don't really get why a new carb would affect my timing? It was fine before with my old carb. Anyways, I can't drop the idle any more with the idle speed screw. I have messed with the idle mixture on my old carb, but ran into a similar issue...the way to adjust it is to turn it out until you get the highest possible idle. Then you drop the idle with the idle speed screw. You continue this until the idle mixture screw no longer raises the idle, then set the idle speed screw until it's where you want it.

My issue is that I can get the mixture screw to raise my idle, but after a certian point, the speed screw no longer drops it. I will see if retarding my timing a bit might help. I still think the fuel level in the glass is a bit high, but I'm not sure that would affect the idle?
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 05:59 AM
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Are disconnecting the vacuum lines off distributor ?
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 07:56 AM
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You mean when setting the timing, or what? My timing was working for me just fine with my old carb, is my point. Now, with nothing having changed but the carb, I'm idling high, so I'm just wondering if there's something I'm missing, as far as a new carb effecting my timing, or if I should assume my timing is fine and hasn't changed since I last set it, and I should be focusing on the carb itself.

I talked to the place the I bought the carb from, and he said not to worry about the timing, but to check that one of the diaphrams is getting vacuum. I guess I could have missed a hose or something...we'll see. He thinks the choke isn't dropping down off the last high idle setting. I'll check that out hopefully today. It hasn't done any of the weird stuff from before...but it also hasn't been warm. He said it sounded a bit like flooding, but wasn't sure why it would be doing that. I guess I'll focus on the idle until/unless it does the other stuff again.

Thanks for the help!
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Old Mar 23, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Well after a couple conversations with the tech guy, they are going to rebuild my core as soon as it gets to them and just send it right back to me. Today when I got gas I went to start it back up, and it would just fire up then stall. Had to keep on the gas to get it to stay running. After driving for a couple hundred yards it was fine, but when I parked it at the house for lunch, I checked the sight glass and it was totally full, so obviously something is sticking and it's flooding.

Otherwise the carb felt great...I can't yet comment on the quality obviously, but the customer service has been great!
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