i have an 83 toyota pickup with the 22r in it. engine was garbage so i pulled it out but forgot to remove the battery from the engine bay. so the engine touched the positive and arked out alot of electrical. put the new engine in and now when i turn my key forward i have nothing. all i have is headlights, hazards and a horn. no wipers, radio, dash lights or gauges and no ignition. i was told that there are small links that are meant to melt if this happens instead of the fusible links that they put in after 84.

would these links be the ressult of my problem or am i looking at a new wiring harness or coil????

secondly, i have no brakes. i have put brand new rotors, calipers, pads, brake lines, master cylinder and brake booster and i still dont have brakes. i have blocked off my rear brakes in order to qaurentine the problem. and no the rear brakes are not the problem. im thinking my booster has to be foobar some how. its the only other thing that would make sense.

thoughts and feelings would be appreciated. i'd rather take the cheap way out as i have dropped WAY TOO MUCH MONEY!!!!!

 

Have you bled the brakes properly?

 

well i thought the same so i bled the brakes about 5 times. and its still not happening. it feels like it loses pressure somehow. like the brake booster isn't doing its job. if i pump the crap out of it then it suddenly gets some brakes. but it feels spongy.

 

pirate has the order of how to bleed your brakes properly. I've tried other ways before but they usually end up spongey like you're talking about.

 

First you need a service manual and second you probably shorted the fuseible links. Take an electrical meter and check for voltage in the connectors at your battery positive post; these supply the power to your your main circuits. If you have power, check the power at your ignition switch and work your way out to the starter.

Brakes: If you removed the master cylinder, the rod inside the booster might need adjustment and check the adjustment on the rod on the brake pedal. Check your rear proportioning valve (load Valve) at the rear of the truck is working. You really need a factory service manual to troubleshoot and adjust everything.

 

are those fusible links just little black boxes with a some white scribble on top? i habe tried to go through all my electrical. its going to take weeks. so i went to the wrecker and yanked the entire wiring harness out. battery cables to fuse box. all the relays and links. it was only 25 bucks so it cant hurt to just replace it all. i have spent countless hours staring at a mess of wires trying to figure where the problem is. and would that rod in the booster make the brakes feel spongy? i took it out of a 82 toyota and put it in mine. it felt good when it was in the other truck and spongy in mine. the master cylinder is definetly good and came out of a 4runner...would have liked top use the booster out of it but it hits my steering shaft.

 

and i dont see how i can mess up bleeding my brakes. my rear brakes are blocked off entirely. at the master cylinder. so in reality it has to be my booster. i can pump pump pump my brakes and then i will finally get some pressure but it doesn't hold that pressure. the brakes were bled 3 times. and each time it comes out solid fluid.

 

did you bench bleed the master cyl before installing it? it might have air at master cyl trying to push fluid at the wheels.

 

The fusible links are on the positive battery cable. There are 2 green connectors, one should have a single wire and one should have 2-3 wires. There is braided sleeving covering the fusible links.

If you checked the booster rod adjustment and it was okay then you could have a bad booster diaphragm or you are not getting enough vacuum to the booster. If your engine is not running and you are not supplying vacuum to the booster your brakes will feel a little spongy.