kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Intake should be 0.008 and exhaust should be 0.012. Lash them before you start it up then run it up to full temp, shut it down and re-lash the valves. It should be done with the engine warm. When I do mine I usually just leave the throttle cable and brackets off to warm it up so that I can get the valve cover off quick and easily.

Mr.Farva

I do have a EPN 261 crawler cam. The last owner told me .007 Intake .011 Exhaust. The EPN cam data sheets says .007 .009, and the manual says .008/.012.

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Follow the data sheet from the builder, seems tight on the exhaust though so I would confirm with them before burning a valve.

Mr.Farva

Got every part back together, put it in the truck. Turned it over 3 times. A lot of oil leaking where the trans meets the engine. Rear main seal is brand new, gasket is brand new, even the rtv is brand new. Dont know where to go from here.

Mr.Farva

So we pulled the motor back out, flywheel, clutch, backplate. It was the oil galley . Fixed!

Ever thing back in. Fired it up. Oil light stays on. Pulled the sensor oil shoots out of it. Replaced the sensor. Light still on. Any ideas? The wire ohms fine till the green connector. Maybe a problem from the connector to the dash? I didnt touch the dash, and the light worked before.

Also what is the stock location for the oil pressure switch.

#1 left of the oil filter
#2 left of the motor mount
#3 the one in the middle of the motor mount?

Filled the oil filter and those galleys. Filled the oil pump with assembly lube. Light still on?

Mr.Farva

I might have forgot the front galley plug. Machine shop took all the plugs out and didn't give me the plugs back... Going to start tonight pulling the front pulley, accessory's.

Mr.Farva

Put the front oil galley in...........

Everything back together again, again. Oil light turned off after turning it over a few times. Went for a test drive, heard a weird rattle sound that would come and go. Got back realized I forgot to tighten the front pulley on the crank. "the power steering one" Test drive #2 was short but everything seemed fine. Compression is on the low side. Most likely the head?

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Did you actually check the compression or did it just "feel" like it had low compression? You won't get full compression numbers until the engine has run long enough for the rings to seat - typically takes a couple hundred miles. Best way to go about breaking in a engine is just to plan a nice long Sunday drive down some back roads running it up and down the RPM range.

I've noticed that thoroughness and patience are not your strong suit. Forgetting things like the oil galley plug and crank bolt are signs that you need to slow down and pay attention to what you are doing. I always tell people that all engines want to run, but the reason some don't is because of what the mechanic did or didn't do to it.

If you suspect that your head might be the problem (which you should have taken the couple of hours to check your valves while you had it apart - again, thoroughness and patience), then AFTER you put a couple hundred miles on the engine you can do a leak down test. You can get a leak down tester from any parts store or perhaps some my let you rent or borrow one. On a fresh rebuild, I wouldn't want any more than 5% loss even though up to 10% is typically acceptable.

If you can't get a hold of a leak down tester and you have a means of hooking up an air compressor hose to the spark plug hole (ie: a compression tester fitting) you can at least likely find out if anything is leaking. Turn your engine to TDC on the compression stroke of the cylinder you are testing, hook up the air hose and pump 50+ psi (you can increase PSI if needed) into the cylinder then listen for leaks. If you have leaks then they would likely come from the following:

-Out of the carb - bent, burnt, improperly lashed or improperly seated intake valve
-Out of the PCV - worn, improperly seated piston rings (it helps to plug the front breather bung on the valve cover to concentrate any leakage to the PCV valve on the rear)
-Out of the exhaust - bent, burnt, improperly lashed or improperly seated exhaust valve
-Bubbles in the radiator - blown head gasket

You should be able to hear or feel anything significant, but it can help to see leaks if you tape a tissue, feather or something light over the exhaust and intake so you can see the movement, if any.

Some people also like to add a little ATF to their cylinders prior to doing a leak down so that it helps "seal" the cylinders, but I do not advise this. The reason being is that adding ATF artificially seals the cylinders that you are trying to test for leaks; where does that make sense?? Not to mention, ATF belongs in a transmission, not in an engine. Just perform the test with the engine warm and you'll get accurate results.

I'm also assuming that you adjusted the carb and timing after the rebuild? I would also go back and tell whoever told you that LCE rebuilt that engine that they are a liar - I went back to look at your pictures and noticed that those are definitely not LCE pistons and the factory valves are still in the head.

Mr.Farva

I did run a compression check after the first drive just to see. 125/127/126/127 I'll run it again after 500 miles.

I didn't take the oil galleys out, the machine shop did and didn't tell me. So I didn't notice, since I wasn't looking for that. Simple inexperience on my part... Found this out from others that did the same thing. This is my first car and first time rebuilding a car engine. I have learned a ton in the last few weeks. Thank everyone for helping a beginner.

Anyways, so far so good. Did about 30 miles today. Ran great so far! Also starts so much better. No more tapping the gas while starting. Not sure if the LCE spiral adapter help that or what. O yeah and the first drive had a weird smell. Ending up being the power steering belt that was a little to tight. FIXED

gillesdetrail

iTrader: (1)

Don't worry too much about the actual compression number, some gauges read much lower than others, did you do the test with engine warm, cut the fuel and with the pedal at wot? The fact that there is almost no variations between your numbers show that the engine is healthy, that there are no head or headgasket issue. Run the thing hard to set the rings properly and take the compression again. Congrats on your rebuild!