try ace hardware they have a great selection but might be kind of pricey

 

Well if you're looking for business suggestions, Alabama Cylinder Head has done some business with my Dad's shop and he's been pleased. Cylinder Head International I think offers about the cheapest rebuilt head at $250. I doubt either one of those companies is going to show an application for '82 on the internet but I vaguely remember calling CHI for a quote on an old 20R about a year ago and they said it was available. For what it's worth, it's hard to beat that unless you have a friend who is a good machinist.

If you're going to start from the ground up I recommend going through the old mill as dilligently as you can afford to. At the minimum check for signs of scoring or scratching in the bore. Check for bore runout with a dial indicator. Again we get down to how deep your pockets ultimately are. $200-300 can probably score you main bearings, rod bearings and maybe pistons too. If you are unfamiliar with honing operations buy the correct size flexi-hone as they make it almost impossible to screw up your honing operation. Of course any deep scoring in the cylinder walls may require machining operations. This can range anywhere from another $200 and run you well into a grand depending on where you live, who you know and how much work the block needs. Remember you should probably do a timing set if you've distrubed the chain. You don't absolutely need to, but it's good practice as the 20/22R series is known to occasionally have timing chain issues. Your oil leak could be a rear main seal, but it could easily be an oil pan gasket. I've seen ones with the cork gasket get so bad it's disgusting. Of course if you're going elbows-deep into the engine you might as well replace everything you can in there anyway. That being said I seldom like to see OEM Toyota made in Japan bearings made to last a lifetime being replaced by cheaper quality aftermarket products. Every time you tear into an engine that deeply you risk installing a defective bearing.

As for your transmision or transfer case woes, figure another few hundred dollars. I would start by working some oil into the shifter pivot and go from there. Rolling the truck while shifting the Tcase can obviously help too.

Remember that when the basic engine work is done and assuming you get the truck to roll again, your work is still far from done. It is at this point that you will go through and inspect the tie rods, ball joints, brake hoses - many vehicles that sit for ages on end need the front hoses at least. You will probably find your truck in need of several hundred dollars in additional repairs.

It will all be woth it though when you hop in and drive it around for the first time.

 

yup I found some at Truevalue/acehardware....$4.15 a piece. so yeah a little pricey. But hopefully sometime tonight I can ride back up to the shop and get the engine on the stand.

 

cdg- Yeah it is the rear main seal and maybe the plate on the back of the head. The bellhousing was full of oil and what looked like pieces of clutch or something. Thanks for the advice. I will look into those head options. I definitely want to be careful what parts I put back in especially the bearings.

Thanks Again
Chris Stokes

 

Wow, I've read a ton of your posts, don't know why I never noticed your signature had all these valuable resources. Thanks for the FSM!

 

now i'm jealous i wish i was back at the point you are when i found mine it was entertaining trying to figure out what ways to go with the truck.i lost sleep trying to find the right path to take with the old girl.how to get parts what parts to use

 

Don't be jealous. I have so much work to do. On a good note I did get the engine on the stand this morning.

 

get it back together..

dump some gas in the carb..

you may just have a clogged fuel filter.. (should be right there on the right inner fender)

check your compression with a compression test kit. (harbor frieght is cheap answer)

you have a double row timing chain..

 

While it was together I did all of the above except the compression test. I am sure at minimum the head gasket is blown and at worst the head or block has serious problems.

 

At the risk of being highly annoying I would suggest that the main bearings should at least get a good inspection if the main seal has failed and you believe that oil or gasoline (or both) have been contaminating the oil for a while. Main seal failure can happen as a result of bearing failure. If you will the eccentric "wobble" motion of the crank "tears" the main seal unevenly so it leaks. This is most dramatically seen on single cylinder engines but is sometimes less apparent on larger automobile engines. A quality set of feeler gauges does not lie (with the right set of hands using them of course).

Or if you want to roll the dice on this one, you press in your new main seal and look for signs of leakage. If the truck blows out rear main seal again in short order you could be looking at a likely bearing failure. It is usually best to go this route only if you feel confident that the bearings are OK (feel and sound while the engine is running).

You're at the most "fun" stage of your build though. To me the joy is in the meticulous work - the stuff that challenges you beyond the normal scope of brake and front end repair. You get to play with cool expensive gadgets that give you seemingly esoteric readings. Plus you can sit in the engine bay and pump your feet like Fred Flinstone.

 

you got a nice truck..

but.. after everything is said and done you will have a great truck..

all the gas and extra oil in the crank case will blow out the rear main seal...

if you got a mangetic base dial indictor check your crank. or use fleer gauge..

you may want o pull off a bearing cap and plastic gauge it to see what your tolerance is.. the extra time you put in it now will extend your time on the road in the future...

 

cdg- I am not annoyed at all. Thanks for the information about main bearings. Makes sense that they would cause the main seal to leak. I am guessing its obvious to you all at this point that I am no mechanic. I will definitely be purchasing a set of feeler gauges and learning how to use them.
And yes I am having a ton of fun. I love this stuff. I don't think anyone else in my family understood my excitement over pulling the engine. Its really not that big of a deal but it was something I had never done before so to me it was very cool. I do love the new tools and doing things I have never attempted before. I am excited and ready to get to work.

 

well keep at it and it will be up and running in no time.

 

When I pulled the mounting bolts for the AC compressor last night, they were covered in fresh oil. What would make that happen?

Thanks
Chris Stokes

 

When I pulled the mounting bolts for the AC compressor last night, they were covered in fresh oil. What would make that happen?
just the bolts that pass through the timing cover?
i would also recemend you put a speedy sleeve on the crank to stop the oil leak
the seal can wear a groove in the metal and cause a leak.or in my case the crank was machined so i needed to put the sleeve on to take up the gap i could see through.

 

You'll see signs of electrolysis around the gasket sealing area where water ports are. It'll look chewed and rotted out. My Machine shop sells new refurbished heads ( reground valves, new springs and seals and decked) for $180. which isn't bad. Decking usually is bout $60, Magnuflux is usually bout $45 around these parts. I'd just say what does this head look like from visual reference.

 

I got the head and oil pan off today. I thought that the head gasket was going to be more obviously blown out than this. Is this a normal looking head gasket? (ie. not blown)

83yotanater-i dont see anything like you are describing on the head. Please look at the pics and tell me if I am missing something. Could the head be cracked somewhere that I cant see? Like inside.

I have to admit I expected this thing to be a lot worse inside than this. The oil pan was relatively clean no bits and pieces or "shrapnel" in there.

I feel like I am missing something. I thought there would be some obvious failure starring me in the face.

pics of head:



head gasket:


block:




So my main question at this point is how did the oil get water in it?
and I also cant figure out why the oil filter was dry both times I took it off.

 

Well from the looks of it if there was a head gasket failure cylinders 3 or 4 look like the far more likely culprits. Cylinder 4 there looks to have some spots and possibly rust marks from water build up. Honestly though I don't see very well these days so I could be wrong. Cylinder 3 has that (slightly) excessive black carbon type buildup that points to a rich mixture. This can happen when the combustion temperature is too low in that cylinder (i.e. coolant was leaking in) or that valve was out of adjustment. It's hard to say not being there.

Water is commonly introduced into engine oil in one of several places. One is the coolant crossover at the intake manifold and choke circuit (this might not be an option on our 20/22R series I can't remember). Another is "under" the head gasket that keeps the cylinder bores separate from the water jacket. Yet another but much less common place is through a crack in the cylinder wall.

To be honest that head doesn't appear to be too bad. You can probably get away with stuffing it back on top of the engine. Assuming you want to do it right you would take it to be magnafluxed and at the minimum put in fresh valve seals before doing that though.

Head gasket failures aren't always dramatic. There are two possible ways this can go down without dramatic evidence of failure - one Ive seen and the other I've only heard of.

1) The head has warped. This can happen especially after some other engine overheating issue. This is especially possible if you notice scoring in the cylinder bores or one or more burned valves. I've seen this first hand.

2) The head bolts do stretch with time. Eventually they can come loose causing head gasket failure. If caught early, I have heard that sometimes the head bolts can simply be retorqued to their proper specification with no real damage to the engine. I only know of this because it was apparently a common issue with the 2.1 liter Renault J8 diesel engine that I am currently fighting with in my Jeep.


The oil filter dry could be a whole different barrel of monkeys. I think your first place is to start with the screen pickup (if you haven't removed the oil pan yet now is the time to check it out!). At the very least pick up an oil pressure test kit so that when you put this together you can verify that the engine has oil pressure. These kits are not commonly sold in auto parts stores but can be had for about 30 bucks from horrible freight or about 100 bucks from Sears special order.


I hope that maybe this gives you some ideas.

 

If I were you I would just overhaul the engine. Clean it up replace any parts that can not be cleaned or replaced. One thing you might want to do is make sure you have all the caps for everything so you do not get dirt in places where it can damage your vehicle. My dad used to have one just like that and they are not very hard to work on. But spend alot of time on it do not rush through it or you might miss something.

 

That's what I will do but I just really feel like I am missing something.

So does anyone have any recommended machine shops in my area? Will they be able to tell me more about the block and what work it needs.

Also what do you mean by "caps for everything" I don't follow what you are trying to say.

Thanks
Chris Stokes