Is it safe to remove the main crossmember under trans? It connects the two main chassis rails.

If no, it's going to be a wrestling match getting this trans (w/transfer case) out.

Thanks,
Mike

 

yes u can after u unbolt everything else that holds the trans in,

 

Yeah, safe to remove it when? The way I do it is to remove the driveshafts, then start removing all the bellhousing bolts. Get everything out (like the slave cylinder), then put a jackstand or something under the tranny, and remove the crossmember. Then get a person or two under there, get the stand out, and lower it down.

 

If you don't have enough muscle-power between you and maybe another person, I found a place locally that rents out tranny jacks for $30 a day. Helped me tremendously, especially when it came time to put the sucker back in.

 

Yep. I've never been a big enough guy to do it myself and started doubting the people who claimed to be able to do it themselves...then this last time my friend got under my truck and bench-pressed the thing right in there by himself...Not happening for me, though. I borrowed a floor jack, actually an atv jack from a freind the time before that. It helped...but was more in the way than anything. An actual tranny jack might be a good idea.

People have all sorts of other tricks, though..

 

I almost went this route, but used 2 ratchet straps wrapped around the frame rails instead. That was yesterday, today I lift the new one back into position the same way

not my pic, but you get the idea

 

after the transmission is out you might consider blocking the engine to avoid strain on your motor mounts as the engine will be tilted back to the firewall...
if you don't have access to a trans jack, removing the transfer case helps get about 60lbs or so out of the way too...
you can see my cheapo harbor freight transmission jack:

picked it up on sale along with a 20% off coupon...best $65 I have spent in awhile
http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html

 

x2

I let mine hang...pretty sure my mounts were already shot anyway, hope to replace them sometime soon.

 

Thanks much guys,

It's safely on the ground. I pulled the cross-member and let trans down on two jacks. The last 8" or so.....free fall....owell.

Now it's decision time. The bearing behind the throw-out bearing (output shaft?) is bad...at least. I found a used (mileage unknown) for $700 shipped to my door. It looks like it's around $1000 for exchange rebuild. Advice at this point appreciated. It's basically a farm truck...no long trips....dump runs, etc.

Mike

 

....not sure I'd spend that on a use tranny, when for $300 more you can get yours rebuilt. Not sure where you are, but around here, I can find L52's used for under $100 sometimes. Local rebuild (10 years ago...) was $650.

Input shaft is what goes into the clutch. If it's wobbly, yeah, that bearing is toast. For a farm truck, I wouldn't spend $700 on a used tranny. These early trannies aren't the best...so used is a bit of a gamble. Like I said, I don't know where you are...but around here, and I'm sure on the west coast, used 1st gen trannies are cheap.

 

What other year models will bolt up if any? I found an '83 used for $375.

I'm in the southeast.

Thanks

 

83 should bolt right up, right people? $375 is getting closer to reasonable...

 

'83 should do you fine. Any of the L series ought to work, L43, 45, 52...

The 43 is a side shift through, and the 45 is a 4 speed. I have an L45 to sell, but shipping to SE would make it cost-prohibitive.

 

just be sure to measure any transmission that you mind find used. L Series transmissions are gonna be about 20 3/4" long...all other TOy transmissions will be around 25" long and will require moving the crossmember and driveshaft work.
Some guys will tell you one thing just to move something when they need beer money....

 

I've looked at three used L50 transmissions.....all three worse than mine. I pulled the drain plug on each ..... two of them had pebble sized metal chunks. The third looked dry, like oil leaked out over time. Pretty discouraging.

Does anyone know of an east coast re-builder with a good reputation? OR should I consider rebuilding myself? I've done gear changes in race cars but never full rebuild. I would have to buy a press, and not sure of special tools needed.

Thanks for advice.

 

call around some of the privately owned transmission shops, stay away from the chains like Aamco. The privately owned shops have more of a vested interest in their reputation, so the owner's will either work with their tech or let them go if they can't do the work. I just had my W56 rebuilt for less than $400, it was 3 hrs labor + $145 for a bearing kit, but I caught the noise early and knew it only needed bearings. Expect to pay a bit more if there's gear damage or you want the synchros replaced. If East Coast Gear Supply can't get you a rebuild kit, they'll know the next best place

 

if you are just gonna use the truck around your property an L43 (side shifter 4 speed like i pictured in post#7) might work...not the most desireable but might open some options.
There is also an L48 top shift 4 speed that looks exactly like a L52 5 speed (have heard of the mythical L50 but never found one and it is not mentioned in the Toyota factory service manual)