I have a 77 pickup 20r with the stock carb. I'm removing all the emissions cap and going to add a Webber. Can someone post a link to the carb kit i need.

1. When removing the old carb I noticed the intake manifold has cooland running through it up into the carburetor. I dont think the Weber uses these do i need a new intake? Or just slap the Webber on there.

2. I had the water choke, whats the best thing to do with the 2 hoses, join them together? Block them off?

I can't seem to find a good tutorial on how to desmog the 20r. Could you help me out with these steps. Ive removed all the vac ines, pulled the carb, removed the EGR, removed 2 pipes off the exhaust, removed smog pump, vape canister.

 

Here you go...just act like a kid in a candy store & spend away.

https://www.lceperformance.com/category-s/16861.htm

Question 1: Get a new Canon intake.
Question 2: Sorry, don’t have an answer

Not sure you’ll find much difference between the 20R & 22R de-smog...

 

The Weber 32/36 with electric choke is the usual choice for this & will work fine. If you buy the kit from LCE you'll be OK. Just be careful if buying from any other sources like Ebay etc., as there are "fake" Chinese made copies of the 32/36 on the market, and they aren't even worth considering. Very poor build quality & most of the time they can't even be tuned to run right. Just make sure you get a genuine carb made by Redline/Weber. Here's a direct link to the 32/36 kit on LCE: https://www.lceperformance.com/Weber...-p/1030021.htm

You are also going to need a fuel pressure regulator. The Weber usually doesn't like any fuel pressure above 3 PSI, & the stock electric pump on your '77 provides 5 to 8 PSI, so with a pressure regulator the new carb will likely have flooding problems. LCE has a pressure regulator & gauge kit available, here's the link to that:
https://www.lceperformance.com/Fuel-.../1035056-k.htm

If you don't need the gauge Holley make a good regulator that is adjustable from 1 to 4 PSI, & is less money: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/q...xoCXjQQAvD_BwE

Question 1: There should NOT be coolant running from the intake manifold and going into the carb itself. Not too sure what you are referring to here. Can you be more specific and/or post pics?

Question 2: Easiest thing to do is get a small length of copper or brass tubing of the correct diameter & 2 hose clamps & join them together to make a coolant bypass. Or, you can get 2 coolant port plugs & 2 hose clamps & cap the ports off. There are some good one made by Dorman in various sizes and they are made of EPDM Rubber, so they are resistant to heat & coolant. You can get these at almost any parts store or online. Here's the Dorman page showing what's available: https://www.dormanproducts.com/c-196-bypass-caps.aspx

I would also suggest this item: https://www.lceperformance.com/Intak...-p/1032050.htm
With this intake manifold plug kit you can get rid of the vacuum tree at the lower center of the manifold, the Thermo Vacuum Switching Valve (TVSV) & a few other odds & ends. Check out the pic for applications.

Desmog Info: There isn't too much difference in desmogging the 20R & the 22R. Check the top of the list of threads in this forum (Pre-84 Trucks) for 2 "sticky threads" on the subject. They should have all of the info you need. You can also search the forums for "desmog" in the search box on the upper right of the page & anything that has been posted will come up in a search result.

2 other things. I have desmogged my '78, which is similar to your '77, but I am still running the stock carb on mine & it's running fine. You may want to keep the smog/air pump as the base of it acts like a spacer on the passenger side motor mount. If you're dead set on getting rid of the pump, you're going to have to fabricate a spacer plate of the correct thickness to take it's place & install it. I removed all the air hoses from my pump but left it in place. I just don't have the belt on that drives it. Since that belts only job was to drive the pump it's not a problem (non-A.C. truck). Second - I also removed my vapor canister at first but ended up putting it back in, since it was functional & keeps fuel vapors from the carb & gas tank from getting into the air. I even found a way to have it vacuum purge trapped vapors back to the carb, even without all the emissions controls. The Weber will work fine without the canister, your option on whether you keep it or not, but be aware that unless you do something to address it, your vent line from the tank & the vapor return port on the Weber will be venting fuel vapors at times. That may not be very safe, which is why I decided to keep my canister & have it hooked up to those 2 sources of vapor.

Anything else about this just drop a reply with any questions & I will try to answer them as best as I can.

 

this is just plate that is between the carb and intake but it has coolant passages in it. It looks like it would be fine to block them off from here because it just flows out one hole and in the other but i read somewhere that the weber wont mount to this plate so if I take it off its just 2 holes and no channel for the coolant to circulate so the weber will block off this coolant passage.

I see what you mean about the smog pump being a spacer plate for the motor mount but i only removed it from the pivot point I didn't mess with the motor mount at all. This is ok right?

 

Thank you for the picture, it makes things clearer. I did not know that you had also removed the phenolic spacer/insulator as well. It's the thick black spacer that sits under the stock carb. In the picture that actually appears to be the top of the intake manifold & there should be no further "plates" there. You may be able to mount the Weber on top of the stock spacer, but if you buy the Weber in kit form it comes with 2 aluminum spacers that take the place of the stock spacer. It also has a gasket that goes under the bottom spacer & that will seal off the coolant passage from leaks. If you want to be sure go with the kit & get Weber's spacers.

Here's what the kit looks like: https://www.lceperformance.com/Weber...-p/1030021.htm and you can see the spacers & gaskets that come with it in that pic.

If you didn't mess with the motor mount at all & left the pump bracket in there it's no problem.