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I have not seen a loss of coolant yet; my guess is that I caught this issue quickly before it has had a chance to develop. I will see if Harbor Freight has that coolant system check tool in stock, unfortunately with Easter I have not had a chance to the leak down test. If the cylinder head is indeed bad and not serviceable, I will replace it with a "new" to me unit. Has anyone had any luck with the "Yotashop" engine products? They seem to be the only one to offer a 1981 22R cylinder head. Happy Easter!
My recommendation is: Do not order parts, Do not take your engine apart.
If you have indeed caught this early you can afford to spend some time making sure what the exact cause is. Replacing an intake gasket doesn't cost much, but there is no need to drain and refill your coolant or spend the time if you are just guessing. If it does turn out to be the head or head gasket you will have to take it all apart again. Be sure the first time.
Also keep in mind that one of the byproducts of combustion is water vapor and when your engine/exhaust/cat is cold and the weather is cold you will see a lot more water vapor (white smoke to some people) when you first start your engine than you would think.
So if you can't verify that you are loosing coolant or using oil don't bother with what is coming out of your exhaust.
Just my 2 cents, but you may not have a problem at all.
I will get those two tests done, as previous posters have stated, this will help narrow down the issue. I did purchase a head gasket from Toyota for $36 and two Intake gaskets for $6 each. Not much money spent yet, but a new cylinder head will set me back a few bucks. I keep hoping that it's only water vapor, but that seems like a lot of smoke at startup and initial drive. Not to mention the #2 spark plug having the appearance of being steam cleaned. I am slowly accepting the fact that I will have to pull the head and timing cover. Thus, replacing the head gasket as well as the timing chain and front engine seal. I still can't help to think that I might of damaged the head after doing a valve adjustment, being that all the cylinders have compression readings of 160psi, that can't be it.
I keep hoping that it's only water vapor, but that seems like a lot of smoke at startup and initial drive. Not to mention the #2 spark plug having the appearance of being steam cleaned.
If you aren't loosing coolant or using oil is has to be water vapor. I'm not sure what to say about the #2 plug unless this is an RE (but your post says R)and one fuel injector is dumping fuel or this cylinder has a misfire, so the fuel isn't being burnt and is washing down the cylinder and plug.
The punch line is "if it aint broke don't fix it".
I believe I do have a 1981 California edition truck because every thing is sill intact and working emissions wise, it even has the “Sensor” light on the dash. It does pass the emissions test here in Utah which is great. For arguments sake how would I tell if I had a later long block installed? I assume that I can check the serial number of the existing block with Toyota, to get a production date. If I do have a late date block I might have to take up Skypilot’s offer in regards to the cylinder head. Today did get away from me, and I had no time to play with the Pickup, which is a bummer. I’m off to work and will not be able to turn wrenches till the end of the week. Thus, an update is forth coming, it’s just going to take me a little time. I would like to thank every one who has commented with ideas and possible avenues to pursue.
Got a chance to do the leak down test and these are the results;#1 90/84, #2 90/84 (with a small bubble escaping the radiator filler), #3 90/81, #4 90/80. #1 cylinder, it was definitely evident that air was escaping the valve cover, which was a bit disappointing. I keep thinking that after I did do the initial valve adjustment, maybe I had the TDC notch at the first pointer on the timing guide which is just shy of the number 8 (goes 8,5,0). On my timing indicator there is no pointer under the zero. My guess in a rush I aligned the crankshaft pulley mark with the first mark I saw on the timing indicator and did the valve adjustment from there. Could that ten-fifteen degrees off TDC cause the valves to hit the piston and cause all of these problems? Regardless I have to pull the head and I will get an answer definitively.
I did the valve adjustment again, verifying TDC and no adjustments were needed in the valves. One thing I forgot to mention is that i did change the PVC and old grommet with factory new parts from Toyota. Also I did come across a thread where another 22R experienced smoke only when going uphill. Apparently the oil drainage passage at the rear of the cylinder head was blocked. Allowing oil to pool when the truck was on an incline and then getting by the valves seals into the combustion chamber.
My truck only smokes when going uphill with a load on it. So I'm going to pull the valve cover again and check for debris. I starting to think that I'm burning oil as opposed to coolant.
Did I miss where you said you were actually loosing coolant? have you had to refill the overflow or the radiator?
Why is it that nobody recommends cooling system pressure tests on this forum? Pumping the system up to around 12 psi and watching for pressure drop will tell you a lot.
If that indicates a leak you can leave the pressure on it (in some cases repeatedly pumping the pressure back up) and see what fills up with coolant (or where it leaks out on the ground).
Originally Posted by E120ER
I have not seen a loss of coolant yet; my guess is that I caught this issue quickly before it has had a chance to develop. I will see if Harbor Freight has that coolant system check tool in stock, unfortunately with Easter I have not had a chance to the leak down test. If the cylinder head is indeed bad and not serviceable, I will replace it with a "new" to me unit. Has anyone had any luck with the "Yotashop" engine products? They seem to be the only one to offer a 1981 22R cylinder head. Happy Easter!
Originally Posted by E120ER
I starting to think that I'm burning oil as opposed to coolant.
It has been a month since your first post, I would think that by now you would know if you are losing coolant or oil or both.
Between work, family and that's it not my daily driver, it's tough to find time to turn wrenches on it. The smoke still appears white to me, though it not sweet smelling. So I'm turning my attention to it burning oil. My thought now is either bad valve seats or worn rings. With the air escaping the oil filler cap during the leak down test, I'm guessing piston rings or both. Even though it has good compression it could be the oil ring has broken and allowing oil to blow by, up the crank case and into the pcv.
My question is in regards to the intake manifold gasket on a 1981 22R California edition engine. The engine has 165K miles on it and runs strong, no lag in power or hesitations of any kind. The coolant is always full and no leaks have been detected on either the block, timing cover or head gasket. The oil is clean and free of any coolant. The cylinder compression was tested and they were all reading at 160psi, +/- 2psi. The other morning, I noticed a cloud of white smoke coming from the exhaust during the engine warm up and initial drive. My initial though was that the head gasket was going bad. Though with the above observations mentioned I was wondering how possible is it for the intake manifold gasket to fail resulting in coolant to enter the combustion chamber? I pulled the plugs and only cylinder number two show signs of being clean, i.e. steam cleaning from the coolant. Is this possible or should I concede that my head gasket is blown?Attachment 204241
Originally Posted by E120ER
Between work, family and that's it not my daily driver, it's tough to find time to turn wrenches on it. The smoke still appears white to me, though it not sweet smelling. So I'm turning my attention to it burning oil. My thought now is either bad valve seats or worn rings. With the air escaping the oil filler cap during the leak down test, I'm guessing piston rings or both. Even though it has good compression it could be the oil ring has broken and allowing oil to blow by, up the crank case and into the pcv.
All true statements about the possible cause. Consider this, if it's not your daily driver and your only complaint is the exhaust you should ask yourself if it is worth it at this point to potentially tear down the whole engine to re-ring it or rebuild it. If you definitely have a cloud hanging in the air after you pass by maybe it is time. If you aren't losing coolant or using tons of oil or killing mosquitos with the blue haze (not always a bad thing now that I think about it) maybe you should continue to monitor it until it gets bad. Like fouling plugs or competing with the fog machine from a rock concert.
If the white "smoke" behind you dissipates quickly and does not hang there (in calm wind conditions) I would say you are seeing normal exhaust condensates. One of the byproducts of combustion is water, this is why mufflers have a small "weep hole" at the bottom and why you will almost always see a small amount of water dripping from your tail pipe. Especially in cold damp conditions. What's the weather like there?
At first I was just going to let the issue go, but I passed an elderly couple walking. as I was driving up our street, I literally fumigated them. All I saw was arms flailing in the air, and I felt really bad. I was going to turn around to check on them, but give them a double shot of fumes, now that's bad karma.
At this point I will check the oil passages, if that doesn't help, I will pull the cylinder head and install the new cylinder head I purchased. If that fails, it's time for a short block.
Problem solved! This hard piece of rubber was resting over the oil drain hole in the back of the head. Only thing I can think of is that it is the bottom of the pcv grommet. You can't see it because their is a oil baffle covering in on the inside of the valve cover, so when I pulled the old grommet out and put the new one in, this piece wiggled its way out after a bit of driving. Thank you for every one!
I still cannot believe that the problem was resolved so easily. I have to give credit to a thread I read on IH8Mud, since someone else was experiencing the same issues as I was and that was the fix. Just check the oil drain hole in the cylinder head for any obstructions. Now that I think about it, the smoke only occurred when driving uphill, which led me to that post. Now I can focus on rebuilding the front axle, with new wiper seals and bearings from Marlin Crawler. Rebuild the leaking manual steering box by replacing all of the seals. Next fitting a bed bar to the existing holes in the current bed. Last but not least, install some new KC Highliters on the bed bar. I can’t wait to drive this truck all spring, summer and fall, she is really my pavement princess.
I have a 1986 Toyota pickup 4x4 with the 22r, stock Asin Carb caught fire when i bought it so i replaced it with a webber 32/36 and a fuel pressure regulator at 2psi, changed oil, replenished the anti-freeze and the thermostat (it would back the coolant into the resivour and dump on the ground) replaced the valve gasket and gromets and put a aftermarket breather valve on the front of the valve cover and replaced the pcv valve in the rear. not my issue is white smoke sometimes darker (im running a little rich) my coolant dissapears but has yet to mix with the oil and the oil is coming through the aftermarket breather after about 10 min of driving (high compression in the valve cover, dont know why) i have noticed that when i pull the oil dip stick the oil looks fine and in the middle on the gromet is a little mixed, i have driven to work and home and both times checked the dipstick for a mix because im not expert but i do believe that oil and the coolant would seperate after a while but nothing was irregular besides every 2-3 days im putting in about 1/4 of a thing 50/50 premixed anti-freeze. any ideas?
04-01-2018, 08:24 AM
