22R dies when throttle applied
#22
Registered User
To my knowledge the engine is stock (22R).
I live near sea level, however I take frequent trips to the mountains, so could be up as high as 6000'.
I got everything put back together and tuned the carb per weber instructions. Timing is at 5*, fuel pressure at 2.5 and idle is still sitting around 1000. Any less and it gets rough. Seems to be running fine otherwise, was able to take it out for a 20 minute test drive.
I live near sea level, however I take frequent trips to the mountains, so could be up as high as 6000'.
I got everything put back together and tuned the carb per weber instructions. Timing is at 5*, fuel pressure at 2.5 and idle is still sitting around 1000. Any less and it gets rough. Seems to be running fine otherwise, was able to take it out for a 20 minute test drive.
Are you making adjustments when the truck is warm or cold?
Is everything else plugs (clean and gaped), wires (well attached and not crossing) cap etc in good condition? Any vac leaks? Valves adjusted?
Also, does your truck have the High Altitude Compensator (HAC) on the fender well?
You haven't posted any pics of your engine bay so we can SEE what is in there.
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Is the choke opening completely when it is warmed up - do you have manual or electric choke?
Are you making adjustments when the truck is warm or cold?
Is everything else plugs (clean and gaped), wires (well attached and not crossing) cap etc in good condition? Any vac leaks? Valves adjusted?
Also, does your truck have the High Altitude Compensator (HAC) on the fender well?
You haven't posted any pics of your engine bay so we can SEE what is in there.
Are you making adjustments when the truck is warm or cold?
Is everything else plugs (clean and gaped), wires (well attached and not crossing) cap etc in good condition? Any vac leaks? Valves adjusted?
Also, does your truck have the High Altitude Compensator (HAC) on the fender well?
You haven't posted any pics of your engine bay so we can SEE what is in there.
Plugs (correctly gaped), wires, cap and rotor are brand new. No vac leaks that I can locate.
#24
Registered User
I asked:
You replied:
This is why pictures are important. That does not look like a stock 22R exhaust manifold – it does look like a header. Tell us what your exhaust system consists of please.
The coil also does not look stock but that won’t matter much for now.
Also, re the e-choke – a pic of where the adjustment notches (across the top of the round white piece) are would help.
And have the valves been adjusted recently to your knowledge? How many miles on this engine?
This is why pictures are important. That does not look like a stock 22R exhaust manifold – it does look like a header. Tell us what your exhaust system consists of please.
The coil also does not look stock but that won’t matter much for now.
Also, re the e-choke – a pic of where the adjustment notches (across the top of the round white piece) are would help.
And have the valves been adjusted recently to your knowledge? How many miles on this engine?
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
This is why I came to the forum. This place is great.
I don't see any marking on the header. 1.5" diameter each into a 2" pipe, Raptor brand muffler. No cat.
I do not know when the valves were last adjusted. There is supposedly about 12,000 miles on the rebuilt engine.
Here is a closeup of the e-choke as it sits now.
I don't see any marking on the header. 1.5" diameter each into a 2" pipe, Raptor brand muffler. No cat.
I do not know when the valves were last adjusted. There is supposedly about 12,000 miles on the rebuilt engine.
Here is a closeup of the e-choke as it sits now.
#26
Registered User
This is why I came to the forum. This place is great.
I don't see any marking on the header. 1.5" diameter each into a 2" pipe, Raptor brand muffler. No cat.
I do not know when the valves were last adjusted. There is supposedly about 12,000 miles on the rebuilt engine.
Here is a closeup of the e-choke as it sits now.
I don't see any marking on the header. 1.5" diameter each into a 2" pipe, Raptor brand muffler. No cat.
I do not know when the valves were last adjusted. There is supposedly about 12,000 miles on the rebuilt engine.
Here is a closeup of the e-choke as it sits now.
- The pic of the e –choke needs to be from the top so we can see the adjustment markings and as close as possible.
- Is your throttle cable rubbing on that piece of the rocker cover? If it is get a pic of the cable mount from above.
#27
Registered User
Thread Starter
The throttle cable is not rubbing. 1/4" clearance all around. Just an illusion in the photo.
Here is another pic of the choke. Are there index marks on the plastic part as well? Not sure what I am looking for there.
#28
Registered User
Maybe the plastic is turned too far. Did you remove that at all?
#30
Registered User
Also,
Your throttle cable mount is not stock - it should be. It kind of looks like the piece on the other side of the rocker cover (upper right of this pic) is the stock piece. Is that piece doing anything?
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
I think I got the choke squared away. I will start it up again in the morning when it's colder and see what happens. Here's another shot of the throttle cable mount.
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
#34
Registered User
Maybe that is the factory throttle mount but it doesn’t look like anything a factory would do.
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok, I have overlooked something with the distributor. I reread the FSM and I do not think the dizzy is correct? It should be in the middle of the adjustment range, correct? Any insights?
Mounting bolt location.
FSM
Crankshaft at 0* TDC
Rotor location
Mounting bolt location.
FSM
Crankshaft at 0* TDC
Rotor location
#38
Registered User
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
#40
ok so it sounds liek u had a stuffed carb, rebuilt it, and now it wont idle below 1000 is that right?
If so, what makes u think its a lean idle?
You may be rihgt, im jsut trying to ge ta full picture here.
If i had it there in front of me i promise u i coudl sort it, its incredibly difficutl to work with carbs over the internet haha.
I realy want to get it sorted for you.
The timing does affect rpm but with a stock motor with stock compression ratio, std carb, it realld shouldnt present enough of an issue to cause a high idle (or an idle that will onyl run if set to 1000 rpm).
id forget the dizzy, and concentrate on the carby.
It was wokring fine before right the timing certianly didnt just jump. The carb needs your attention.
What happens if you try to wind the warm idle screw down to make it idle at aout 850 rpm? does it just die?
If so, what makes u think its a lean idle?
You may be rihgt, im jsut trying to ge ta full picture here.
If i had it there in front of me i promise u i coudl sort it, its incredibly difficutl to work with carbs over the internet haha.
I realy want to get it sorted for you.
The timing does affect rpm but with a stock motor with stock compression ratio, std carb, it realld shouldnt present enough of an issue to cause a high idle (or an idle that will onyl run if set to 1000 rpm).
id forget the dizzy, and concentrate on the carby.
It was wokring fine before right the timing certianly didnt just jump. The carb needs your attention.
What happens if you try to wind the warm idle screw down to make it idle at aout 850 rpm? does it just die?