Idle mixture is 2.25 turns out.

 

Is the choke opening completely when it is warmed up - do you have manual or electric choke?
Are you making adjustments when the truck is warm or cold?
Is everything else plugs (clean and gaped), wires (well attached and not crossing) cap etc in good condition? Any vac leaks? Valves adjusted?
Also, does your truck have the High Altitude Compensator (HAC) on the fender well?

You haven't posted any pics of your engine bay so we can SEE what is in there.

 

Current adjustments were made with engine running about 10 minutes. Electric choke.
Plugs (correctly gaped), wires, cap and rotor are brand new. No vac leaks that I can locate.

 

I asked:
You replied:
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This is why pictures are important. That does not look like a stock 22R exhaust manifold – it does look like a header. Tell us what your exhaust system consists of please.



The coil also does not look stock but that won’t matter much for now.

Also, re the e-choke – a pic of where the adjustment notches (across the top of the round white piece) are would help.

And have the valves been adjusted recently to your knowledge? How many miles on this engine?

 

This is why I came to the forum. This place is great.
I don't see any marking on the header. 1.5" diameter each into a 2" pipe, Raptor brand muffler. No cat.
I do not know when the valves were last adjusted. There is supposedly about 12,000 miles on the rebuilt engine.
Here is a closeup of the e-choke as it sits now.

 

2 things:

- The pic of the e –choke needs to be from the top so we can see the adjustment markings and as close as possible.
- Is your throttle cable rubbing on that piece of the rocker cover? If it is get a pic of the cable mount from above.

 

The throttle cable is not rubbing. 1/4" clearance all around. Just an illusion in the photo.
Here is another pic of the choke. Are there index marks on the plastic part as well? Not sure what I am looking for there.

 

Yes there should be index marks on the plastic part - choke adjustment is based on aligning the marks.
Maybe the plastic is turned too far. Did you remove that at all?

 

I did remove it in haste. Hindsight is 20/20. I'll have a closer look at it.

 

No sweat - there is a tang on the end of the choke shaft. It has to go into the spring with a hole at the end which is in the white plastic piece. Then you align the mark on the plastic to the center mark on the carb.
Also,
Your throttle cable mount is not stock - it should be. It kind of looks like the piece on the other side of the rocker cover (upper right of this pic) is the stock piece. Is that piece doing anything?

 

I think I got the choke squared away. I will start it up again in the morning when it's colder and see what happens. Here's another shot of the throttle cable mount.

 

The part number appears to match 78-80 stock coils. I put the meter on it for the heck of it and it tested within specs.

 

hang on, didnt u say that the float valve needle seat had broken.?
Why are we tryign to diagnose this still?

 

OK I forgot you have a pre 84. It really helps if you have your vehicle info on your signature – hint, hint.

Maybe that is the factory throttle mount but it doesn’t look like anything a factory would do.

 

Signature updated!

 

Correct, the needle seat was gone. However I've still got a lean idle and cannot get it below 1000 rpm. Any advice on those issues would be welcomed.

 

Ok, I have overlooked something with the distributor. I reread the FSM and I do not think the dizzy is correct? It should be in the middle of the adjustment range, correct? Any insights?



Mounting bolt location.


FSM


Crankshaft at 0* TDC


Rotor location

 

If you go one tooth over how does the rotor look?

 

Just wanted to clarify. You are talking about going one tooth counterclockwise, correct?

 

ok so it sounds liek u had a stuffed carb, rebuilt it, and now it wont idle below 1000 is that right?
If so, what makes u think its a lean idle?
You may be rihgt, im jsut trying to ge ta full picture here.
If i had it there in front of me i promise u i coudl sort it, its incredibly difficutl to work with carbs over the internet haha.
I realy want to get it sorted for you.
The timing does affect rpm but with a stock motor with stock compression ratio, std carb, it realld shouldnt present enough of an issue to cause a high idle (or an idle that will onyl run if set to 1000 rpm).
id forget the dizzy, and concentrate on the carby.
It was wokring fine before right the timing certianly didnt just jump. The carb needs your attention.

What happens if you try to wind the warm idle screw down to make it idle at aout 850 rpm? does it just die?