1983 22r Will Not Idle
#1
1983 4x4 pickup, 22R, rebuilt carb, ran fine until today
On the way home from work, the truck stumbled on acceleration, and died. It would start and try to run, but would die.
Something cleared out, and the truck would again rev freely, but still won't idle, which is where i am at.
Things I've done:
-grounded the idle cut solenoid
-cleaned the idle cut solenoid and passage with carb cleaner
Things I've noticed:
-black smoke comes out the exhaust when revving, which is new
-will idle with starting fluid
-revs freely, just will not idle
Any ideas?
On the way home from work, the truck stumbled on acceleration, and died. It would start and try to run, but would die.
Something cleared out, and the truck would again rev freely, but still won't idle, which is where i am at.
Things I've done:
-grounded the idle cut solenoid
-cleaned the idle cut solenoid and passage with carb cleaner
Things I've noticed:
-black smoke comes out the exhaust when revving, which is new
-will idle with starting fluid
-revs freely, just will not idle
Any ideas?
#6
New info:
-replaced the fuel filter still nothing
-replaced the idle cut solenoid with a known good one off another carb- nothing
-took the airhorn off and cleaned the passages with carb cleaner-nothing
-runs with the choke on
Also: the smoke is actually more blue than black. do not smell gas while it is running/stalling.
Can see fuel dribbling at idle in the primary.
Does not take any pumps to start, do have to have some throttle input or it will not start
-replaced the fuel filter still nothing
-replaced the idle cut solenoid with a known good one off another carb- nothing
-took the airhorn off and cleaned the passages with carb cleaner-nothing
-runs with the choke on
Also: the smoke is actually more blue than black. do not smell gas while it is running/stalling.
Can see fuel dribbling at idle in the primary.
Does not take any pumps to start, do have to have some throttle input or it will not start
#7
Well I think you can stop messing with fuel cut solenoid
So it runs fine with the choke on?
You've checked for vacuum leaks? Nothing was messed with leading up to this? It just happened out of nowhere?
I'm trying to think of how starting to burn oil might connected to this, but am not sure. Is the carb oily? You aren't sucking oil in from the valve cover?
So it runs fine with the choke on?
You've checked for vacuum leaks? Nothing was messed with leading up to this? It just happened out of nowhere?
I'm trying to think of how starting to burn oil might connected to this, but am not sure. Is the carb oily? You aren't sucking oil in from the valve cover?
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#8
Well, it was something in the carb. Swapped carbs with another truck and it runs fine. SO... I guess its time to try and decide if I want to desmog and go weber or leave it factory.
#12
The only real advantage to the Weber (and why I like them) is that they are simple and easy to use. The factory carb is a good carb by all accounts, but when they go bad from age they can be complicated to troubleshoot. I've never been a fan of factory carbs on any vehicle, so all of my engines get Webers, Holleys, Barry Grants, etc...
You have a lot of options with 22r engines. Weber 32/36, 38/38 and a variety of Holley and BG carbs. 32/36 works good with stock to very mild builds. When you start running cams with .450 lift the little 32/36 will start choking the engine out. Go 32/36 or 38/38 if you plan on any cam mods of consequence and don't look back is my advice. Or get a Barry Grant and a blower from LCE and have some fun.
You have a lot of options with 22r engines. Weber 32/36, 38/38 and a variety of Holley and BG carbs. 32/36 works good with stock to very mild builds. When you start running cams with .450 lift the little 32/36 will start choking the engine out. Go 32/36 or 38/38 if you plan on any cam mods of consequence and don't look back is my advice. Or get a Barry Grant and a blower from LCE and have some fun.
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Blamalam
86-95 Trucks & 4Runners
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Mar 12, 2022 07:34 AM



