Alright so I have an 82' Pickup and my load sensing proportioning valve is basically nothing but a pile of rust, and no longer works. Can you just run a brake line straight from the master cylinder for the rear brakes? Or will any proportioning valve work? I really don't need the load sensing since I'll never have anything in the bed.

 

I bypassed mine and have had no issues.. I tried a proportioning valve, it didn't make any difference that I could feel, so I took it off. I believe the truck stops better without either one.

 

You need some sort of proportioning valve to regulate brake pressure to the rear or else you'd lock them up and not have a happy ending. Seeing as how your valve no longer works you can buy a Manual proportioning valve to replace your busted one. You can get one from Willwood i think and on ebay as well. Here's a link to a thread about eliminating the LSPV.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-valve-181341/

 

If you want to replace it, a lot of people have used this valve I believe:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3905/overview/

I currently do not run one and I can skid my 33" tires very easy.

 

Thank you for the input! I think I'm going to put in an aftermarket proportioning valve just to be safe. If I do install one what should it be set at?

 

I use a "manual" prop. valve on my Trekker when I did the rear discs .... awesome upgrade ..... My truck stops on a dime !!
there is no set "setting" , you will just need to test drive it , and take the time to dial it in correctly



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No valve on mine and I can't "lock up" my rear brakes..... But I do have 36 in tires too...

 

I didn't know we had such a thing. How can you tell if it stops working?

 

I run 35's on mine .. and I can lock em' all up ..

if you cant lock up all 4 tires in an emergancy stop/skid


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That can be a lot worse than not locking them up.... When your tires lock up especially in slippery conditions, you have NO control.

And you flat spot your tires...

 

I bypassed mine and I have no issues at all... I'm running 33" tires as well... Trail riding is awesome with it bypassed. Only way mine lock up is really stomping the brake pedal. Otherwise it's like having all 4 disc brakes

 

I think I'm just going to bypass it and run a staright like to the rear brakes, just like alot of you have. I'll be running 33" mickey Thompson baja claws which are a pretty heavy tire, so I don think ill be able to skid them very easily

 

huh , I wonder why EVERY auto manufacture in the world does it if it isnt safe ? (basically what your saying)
and also check your local laws .. it is MANDATORY in my neck of the woods , or you will fail safty ..
2 each there own I guess !!


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ANTILOCK brakes are mandatory and have been for years... just saying.

The valve in question increase the fluid pressure to compensate for heavier loads..... Most of us don't carry heavy loads in our trucks..

 

antilock is a completly different system

I understand this , but I'm not quite sure YOU do .. the stock prop. valve , like an adjustable valve also regulates a typical 60/40 pressure , which in a "lock up" situation is in fact safer then eliminating the valve all together . on "our" trucks , the additional internal spring and piston is what veries the additional fluid to the rear brakes when "we" have a load in the back , making the toyota valve a "self adjusting" SAFTY feature . even if you dont carry a load in your truck , you still need the differential fluid pressure to make the system work correctly .

just kuz U did it and other people do it ... dosnt make it right !!
again , to each there own



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Agreed.....Sir

 

I had a bit of an issue with my rear pro portioning valve on my 84. My master was shot so I went fir the dual diaphragm booster and taco master cylinder. Summit racing sells their brand of adjustable proportioning valve way cheaper, but it's a rebranded wildwood valve. With two fittings I mounted it right next to the master cylinder and bypassed the stock rear lspv. It worked flawlessly but took a bit to get it dialed in. In total, it cost me around $250 for the valve, master cylinder, booster (used from junkyard), and fittings. After that it was an easy upgrade to v6 calipers and cruiser rotors and disc rear.