I just bumped into this thread and it is just chocked full of awesome info and pics. We're all anxiously awaiting more updates/pics!

Erich

 

More pics you want? More pics you'll get.

Prior to welding the top plate on:


All welded with the top plate on.


Just need to position the valve and mount everything up...


It's getting a coat of primer and paint in the next few days. I chose Ford Blue. It seemed to match my Miller welders pretty nicely...

I have a couple of tech questions about the pump and wiring that I'm awating answers on, then "Ol' Twisty" will come to life...

 

Ol' Twisty is blue now. Just a first coat. I'll be giving it a couple more coats and maybe a coat of clear. Then I'll mount everything up and be in business.



That's my MM210 on the right. The color seems pretty close in person.

 

You poser!

Looks good, but do you know how to use it once you get it built!

 

ha ha your garage floor looks like mine. I never throw down newspaper either

 

I don't get a paper.

I had enough grinder dust on the floor that I can just sweep up the overspray. If you leave a protective layer of crap on the floor, it acts as a mask.

 

stop focusing on this and finish the swap

 

I think your first project should be some armor for that green mower you've got....

This is one of those cool learn something new with (almost) every new post, threads.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...8&postcount=45

 

Update:

Reassembled after paint.

I figured out that one or two of the hoses I have are too short (I bought 4-24" per Jay K's instructions). I want to have my valve near the die and the power unit as far toward the opposite end as possible for counterbalance when bending heavy stuff. In fairness to Jay, he said the sizes may need to be adjusted - he was right.

I unplugged the ram and cycled it through the range of motion. It appears that I'll get between 110 and 120 degrees in 1 shot. I'll get a good measurement when everything is hooked up and running under it's own power.

The remaining to do list is getting shorter:
-Drill and tap the top plate to mount the valve
-Exchange the hoses for correct length
-Get a couple of small fittings to connect the hoses
-Wire up the motor/switch
-Fill the fluids

then

-Bend some tube!!

A couple of pics:

 

Yea, what he said and when are you gonna cut my lift blocks?!?!

 

I totally blanked on that. D'oh!

I'll cut them tomorrow. I need to verify the hole size - I think it's 3/8", but I need to make sure. 1.25" think, right?

 

Mike, I know you're busy with other stuff but I want to get the body lifted ASAP to give just a bit more clearance to get my header off. 1.25" was the height.

Thanks

Bill

 

I'll leave them at your house tomorrow (Tues). I have a meeting at my old office in the morning.

 

Cool,

You can leave them in the wagon on the front porch.

Bill

 

Bill,

I didn't get the hole size until too late for running the tools last night. I have it now (7/16") and will knock these out tonight and get them out to you.

I'm not sure what length you'll need, but you can order the 7/16" Stainless Gr.8 hardware.

 

Moved this thread over from the Fab Shop and discovered that there are a bunch of pics missing since I let my Monty Pics account lapse. Since I have my own hosting now, I'm going to work on getting the pic links edited.

Sorry for the inconvenience. :flipoff2:

 

Here's some pics of it pretty much finalized:

Valve mounted up top. I drilled and tapped the top plate 5/16-18 and used socket head bolts. I slipped a rubber washed under each mounting point also. Did a similar mount for the pump.





I had to "customize" a wrench to tighten the fittings on the pump.



Here's the valve with all the hoses hooked up:



Here's a couple overall shots:

 

Looking good Mike!

When do we start bending some pipe? I've got some extra 2-inch I.D. SCH 40 black steel in my warehouse I'm willing to donate as test subjects. I might have some 1.5-inch I.D. laying around as well.

Bill

 

What's thhe OD on those Bill? I have up to a 2" OD die.