thanks for the notification Breezey, good doing business with ya! lol

seen the pics yet? im loading more as we speak.

 

Good flex. I'll have more when I get some better shocks (longer) and get some spacers to get the back up about another 1/2" to 3/4" to correct the stance a little (lift will allow for a little more angle @ the rear axle). So, w/ the 890's and the trimpackers and the cone, you got what, 3" in the rear? I'm at about 2.25" in the rear cause I didn't trim the cone and put it back in, I just left it out. Up front, I'm running OEM Tundra coils and bilstein HD's w/ a 2.5" cornfed spacer. W/ the ARB bumper, it gave me about 2.25" - 2.5". I was SERIOUSLY considering going to the OME's all the way around until I drove brian's rig for 2 days. It was a MUCH harsher ride than mine (on the road). A lot stiffer. I was really suprised at that. I still may go that way, but for now, I'm working w/ what I have. If I happen to have the opportunity to "vultrue" a set of OME's off of someone parting a 4runenr out, then I'd pick them up just to try them out.

 

ive been done for a good bit.

try these:

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...63406304yfqSxn

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...63406560zMoOxk

 

^ see above...^

 

i got about 2.75-3" with 2 trim packers and the cone with about 100-125lbs of gear.

i did not have to trim the cone.

OME 882s were too harsh? i would probably agree, theyre soo long.

 

with nearly 3" of lift, you shouldn't "have" to trim the cone - but i bet you'd get more compression if you did (as long as the shocks would allow it and you wanted more). you get just under 1" of compression with no lift before hitting the cone on a stock 4runner. that's it. add three inches to that, and you now have 4" of stuff before you hit the cone. i only have 3" or so - that's why i took mine out. when i get some new shocks, i'll probally put in some trimpackers like you did and put the cones back in for a little more lift and hopefully be around the 3" mark in the back. When i do that, I'll go ahead and do a topout spacer up front to get another 1/2" or so up there. I'll eventually do a 1" BL and get 285's, but that's way down the road for me...

Priorities:
1st - skids (front to XF case)
2nd - suspension fix (shocks, trimpackers, topout spacer)
3rd - rear steel bumper (BruceTS design or something similar)
4th - BL and 285's

 

That`s some nice flex but what really caught me are those wide-ass wheel spacers. How wide are those? Seems like they would really put a heavy load on your wheel bearings.

 

I think they are 1.5", IIRC!!!!

 

1.5 inch Marlin Crawler spacers

 

So Steve, you're saying that I can gain more travel in the rear by either trimming the cone as bamachem said, or by removing it and getting the daystar bumpstops?

 

To throw yet another question at you, how about a panhard drop? I don't have that either, am I losing travel there?

 

The aftermarket bump stops will not make you a ramp champ. What they achieve is 2 fold. First they obviously lower the bump stops down to match your lift, so they actually work. The stock cones and bump stops with a 2.5” or 3” lift spring are more or less useless. Sure if you hit it hard enough or beat on it enough, you’ll bottom it out, but they are not working as Toyota designed them to with the suspension. The bump stops are designed to start early in the process to absorb the force that is projected into them. The stock bump stops are also the cheapest thing they could find and are of an inexpensive very hard material. So yes with a stock suspension cutting the cones down would be an improvement. On a lifted suspension they are too high up to work properly.

While mine will NOT make you a ramp champ, they will however do the following.

1. Contact the axle sooner when one side is stuffed and actually push the opposite tire that will have less vehicle weight on it down harder gaining more surface contact. No travel is lost or gained due to the lower stop or the fact that they are polyurethane. Your truck will ramp stuff and droop exactly the same either way, stock or custom. But the vehicle with the custom stops will have a firmer foot print out on the trails, which the RTI ramp is not.

2. The bump stops being Competition Polyurethane will absorb a much greater amount of force than the very hard stock frame stops and cones. This comes into play in 2 areas, on the street over large potholes and dips you will bottom out very softly, not harsh like a stock 3rd Gen 4Runner. Secondly give you a huge advantage when employing the “Farmington Roll” or also known as Bumping It. When you approach an obstacle and your tires spin due to Moab slick rock, mud, moss, etc. and it is determined that a “Bump” is in order to clear the obstacle, the dropped poly stops clearly excel. When the 4Runner hits the obstacle with the small amount of momentum and the rear axle contacts the obstacle, the suspension cycles up due to the abrupt hit it just took and the rear axle heads into the bump stops. With the custom poly stops the force is completely absorbed and the vehicle rolls up the challenge. With the very hard stock stops the axle has a tendency to bounce back with the same amount of force that it was driven upward with, resulting in the 4Runner bouncing back and falling to the bottom of the obstacle, failing to climb it. Once again, nothing here for the RTI ramp.


Same thing goes for the PanHard/TracBar drop. Toyota designed the suspension to work correctly based on that bar being level, the truck will track on the street correctly with the bar level, when the suspension cycles it will react predictable and more responsive with the bar level, after all that is the way Toyota designed it. The axle will in theory droop further with a drop bracket, but in reality the rear shocks are the limiting factor. The rear shocks stop the travel long before the full RTI ramp benefits of the drop come into play. Finally the drop bracket re-aligns your rear axle and springs. With a shifted axle, the springs will sit cockeyed in the seats since they no longer line up and will wear quicker since they are constantly being squished off to an angle rather than straight up and down. Not much here for the RTI ramp either.

The improvements do greatly help, it’s ultimately your call on how much you want to “fix” after screwing it up with the lift.

Watch some of those videos we posted from Moab, Steve Hunt has custom bumpstops as well.

 

Wow, thanks for the lengthy response Steve. That does explain a lot of stuff, especially the bottoming out and the "bump". Now, I just have to decide if I want to spend the money.

 

I'm told you guys have to "Bump it" down there on moss and mud covered rocks.

 

I forgot, Jim in Moab has the same custom front and rear bumpstops I have, he has the new Dr. Z inspired version.

So all the 4Runners in Moab except for Brown had them.

 

Yep, the "bump" is quite common around here. You might even hear someone say it on one of our videos from Tellico.

 

No need for the front bumpstops, I can't even disconnect right now b/c the 285's I just got will rub like mad. I had to cut my fender flares and pound the pinchweld flat just to run them with the disconnects on. Here is my front suspension and stuff:

OME 882's, one trim packer, OME HD shocks, ARB Prado bumper, Warn M8000 (steel cable), trailcarnage skidplates, diff drop, 16x7 Tacoma wheels, 1/4" cheapo wheel spacer, 285 BFG MT KM's. My inner cv boots touch a little (one fin) and are slowly wearing a groove in one fin, so I've got to be at max possible lift in the front w/o destruction of the cv's.

What is the Dr. Z version?

 

Search man, search! https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/new-rear-bumpstops-3rd-gen-4runners-28581/

 

Strange you should mention that. I am getting bored with my SAW/OME set-up and was thinking about going with KIngs front/back and maybe some Downey 3 1/2" rear.

 

It's all covered here. He helped me develop the part.

http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/store.html#Bump