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Adding an amp and sub ideas.

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Old 07-26-2008, 08:45 AM
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Adding an amp and sub ideas.

I have a 98 4runner. I am wanting to add an 8, 10 or 12 inch sub (whichever I can fit in) and an amp to my factory setup. I want it to be out of the way as possible because i need as much room in the back as there is right now between the wheel wells. The custom boxes that fit around the wells are to expensive. I figured I could get an amp small enough to fit under the passenger seat but not sure where to put the sub. Anyone have any good ideas?
Old 07-26-2008, 09:19 AM
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Infinity BassLink ?
Old 07-26-2008, 09:38 AM
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You could always just build a custom box if buying is to expensive.
Old 07-26-2008, 11:19 AM
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I have a Bazooka 250w amp under my passenger seat and a 10" MTX sub in the back and it's an easy out,easy back in proposition when I need the extra room. I listen to hard rock generally and this combo has plenty of punch and enough to annoy people next to you in traffic but won't rattle your truck apart.

Old 07-26-2008, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Elton
Infinity BassLink ?
I'm running one of these and love it. I got it for $90 off eBay. It has decent power, it's self-contained, will run off your speaker outputs or line-level out puts, and takes very little to wire up. The only downside is that it doesn't put out quite as much bass as a proper sub enclosure, but it doesn't take up nearly the same space, either.
Old 07-26-2008, 02:37 PM
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I don't know anything about car audio so building a speaker box is probably out of the question. how deep is the basslink, (in inches)? I don't expect it to sound like me friends 2 12's but i just want a little more punch than the factory speakers have which is pretty non existent. If it can shake my rear view mirror a little I would be happy. also how do you get to the back of the in dash cd player? what else would i need to buy to hook a basslink up?
Old 07-26-2008, 04:03 PM
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I put one of these in my DD a while back. It is working very well and was a snap to install. Is has an auto power on/off so all you need to di is hook up power and ground plus the line or low lever inputs:



http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...HB200A&g=51000
Old 07-26-2008, 04:27 PM
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I just got the Alpine PLT-5. It's not installed yet but I will post pics when it is. It's an array of subs that hardly takes up any space but has a lot of bass. It's got the amp built-in and fits behind the seat. The reviews are really good, the unit itself is amazing, top quality and looks, I look forward to installing it. It is on sale at Crutchfield for $300 off list, read the reviews here
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/products/2006/500/h500PLT5-o.jpeg
Old 07-26-2008, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mhill2079
I don't know anything about car audio so building a speaker box is probably out of the question. how deep is the basslink, (in inches)? I don't expect it to sound like me friends 2 12's but i just want a little more punch than the factory speakers have which is pretty non existent. If it can shake my rear view mirror a little I would be happy. also how do you get to the back of the in dash cd player? what else would i need to buy to hook a basslink up?
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...=US&Region=USA

You can see the dimensions there, plus download the install manual. You would use the speaker level wires at your rear speakers to provide it sound (if using your factory head unit) or install a new head unit that has line level outputs and run wires to the back of your truck (best bet for sound quality).
Old 07-26-2008, 08:41 PM
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google- mtx thunderform
Old 07-26-2008, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mhill2079
I don't know anything about car audio so building a speaker box is probably out of the question. how deep is the basslink, (in inches)? I don't expect it to sound like me friends 2 12's but i just want a little more punch than the factory speakers have which is pretty non existent. If it can shake my rear view mirror a little I would be happy. also how do you get to the back of the in dash cd player? what else would i need to buy to hook a basslink up?
If you know anything about building with wood you can build a set of boxes or if you want I have a set of boxes that i could sell you for cheap that are built to hold 1 10" each at .75 cubic feet of air each they just need covering , or I have a box for 2 10's again with .75 cu.ft. air space that is covered and both are made of 3/4 mdf and fully sealed air tight and if you want I can still port the dual box for more bass and I will do that for you free if you want .

All you have to do is pay shipping and a fair price and there yours. I went a different direction with building mine so I have these two sitting around doing nothing but collecting dust. Say $75 plus shipping for either of them and shipping to your door.

Pm me if interested and I will send you pics if you would like.

Last edited by olharleyman; 07-26-2008 at 09:12 PM.
Old 07-28-2008, 07:55 AM
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thanks for your input. I'm thinking about the Blaupunkt. It seems to get really good reviews. Does anyone know if it will fit under a passenger seat in a 98 4runner. I haven't measured yet but i think it would be close. the seats are pretty low. It wouldn't cause an overheating problem if there wasn't much room above the thing would it? it would still have air from the front and back. If anyone knows how is it comparable to the basslink? it probably doesn't have quite the same bass but if it fits under the seat then if it is comparable it would be worth it.
Old 07-28-2008, 10:18 AM
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It sounds like you don't build much but check this out:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f96/...-ideas-127145/

I did it in my living room in my apartment for like $50 total, Mine is a 2nd gen 4runner but you could probably figure something out for yours.

Old 07-28-2008, 10:36 AM
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I have an amp mounted under my Driverside seat, connected to a (removable) sub box in the cargo area. Then everything is run to the amp under the seat, with only the speaker wires going to the sub, so removal requires only un-ratchetstrapping the sub, disconnecting speaker wires, and switching off remote power to amp.

Your remote wire comes from radio, or from any other switched power (ACC circuit, radio, wipers, ignition, etc) and can have a separate switch inline to be able to independently turn off the amp. Your input will come from either RCA's (new headunit), line-level (from wires behind stock radio going to (rear) speakers), or a line-level to RCA converter (installed behind radio, off of wires).

To remove your radio to get to the wires, pop off the trim around it, disconnect wire harnesses to clock/climate/etc, set to side. Remove 4(?) screws and radio slides out, there you will be able to get to the wires, carefully strip the wires you need (don't cut, just strip off a little insulation to get to metal), solder or just twist, and cover with tape.

see installdr.com for help, i'm pretty sure they are right.... http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Toyota-Wiring.pdf
Old 07-28-2008, 11:59 AM
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ok i think I may go with this setup. if anyone has any better ideas let me know and i'm not sure if this amp will power this sub or not. But i want to put the amp under the passenger seat to save on room then put the sub behind my seat for easy in and out.

Amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...9AP700M&tp=115


Sub: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...5P210D2&tp=111

Box: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...T6510SS&tp=554

if i under stand correctly a mono amp is what i would want to just one sub. And a 2 ohm sub is better than a 4 ohm sub. but this amp only has 350 watts when the sub is 500. but they don't have many 500 watt amps that are mono. will it make a big difference?
Old 07-28-2008, 12:02 PM
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Generally better if the speakers are rated for at least as much power as the amp can put out, so that would be fine, 350 < 500.
Old 07-28-2008, 04:31 PM
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your sub is dual 2ohm, which means it can be wired either 1 ohm or 4 ohm

1 if you put both coils in parallel (black1 to black2 to neg amp, red1 to red2 to pos amp)
4 if you wire in series (neg amp to black1, red1 to black2, red2 to pos amp)

with 1 ohm and 4 ohm, you will still have an RMS of 250, max of 500

your amp is 220 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms or 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms

so I would wire your sub at 4 ohms, to match the subs 250 RMS with amps 220 RMS, and tune gain on amp to about 70-75%

OR you could find a 2-channel "high current" amp that was rated for around 250x1 @ 4 ohms bridged or 250x1 @ 1 ohm bridged (though @ 4ohm would be easier) the amp instruction manual will explain how to wire it.

A 2 ohm sub is not better than 4 ohm, or vice-versa, nor is dual voice-coil versus single voice-coil, it all depends on how you want to wire a combination of sub(s) and amp

OR you could get a DUAL 4 ohm Voice coil and wire it for 2 ohm (4+4 in parallel), and find a mono amp that was rated for same RMS @ 2 ohm as sub

It can get confusing when you are new at it, sorry if I threw out too much crap at once :/

I learned a TON from http://www.the12volt.com/Default.asp? along with a lot of experience, along with a little from here http://www.bcae1.com/
Old 07-28-2008, 04:39 PM
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ok after talking to someone at crutchfield they said I should use this amp

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...5P250P2&tp=115

because it meets the sub perfectly. but since I have a factory cd player i would need this also to wire it into the system

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...slc4&i=142SLC4

it is a Four-channel line output converter. now the amp comes with a wired Punch Bass EQ remote but they said I couldn't use that unless i hooked up the amp through rca's and my factory cd player wouldn't have them. so if I want to turn up or down the bass i would just have to do all the speaker at once through my cd player. but even If i can't use the remote wouldn't there be another way of doing the volume only for the sub?
Old 07-28-2008, 04:49 PM
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that is a good match, better than the Profile (IMO), and a good deal I too I think... technically for the other thing, you only need a 2-channel one, not 4-channel one, but yeah, since the amp does not have "line-level" inputs, you need to convert your "lines" (wires to speakers) to RCA's using that box

as said before, you just need to take out radio, splice box into rear left/right speaker wires (not necessary to connect front left/right unless you plan on adding 4-channel amp to door speakers later), then run RCA cable from box to amp RCA input, this RCA can probably just run right under your center console to under the DS seat if you mount amp there, then run power/ground/remote by driverside door, make sure you mount the amp so that you can get to the gain/freq controls under the seat. I have mine mounted so that I can get to the fuse/power connections if I slide the seat forward.

actually looking at amp, all the stuff is on one side it looks like so no prob there...

as far as the remote, it seems like it would still work, don't know why
Old 07-30-2008, 06:59 PM
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anyone know where to find a picture off the back of my factory cd player? are all the speaker wires the same color? are they labeled so i know which ones are the rears? does anyone have a chart or something?

Last edited by mhill2079; 07-30-2008 at 07:05 PM.


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