Marlin Gear Kits on 3rd Gen
#21
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
It's hard to say what the problem is, I know I helped in the assembly of my crawl box at Marlin's shop, so I made sure things were sealed up. I know that seal provided for the new coupler, a metal flange type seal, during installation can bend easily, whcih tend to leak afterwards. Mine was a very tight fit and took me about 20 minutes to tap it in.
If the leak is through the coupler, wouldn't that allow oil to pass between the tranny/tcase only? As long as the adapter is well sealed, the bad coupler shouldn't have anything to do with a leak, correct?
Like I mention, the only oil leaks I've seen on any marlin adapter has been through the vents - maybe I've been lucky?
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Originally Posted by cubuff4runner
I called ORS and they quoted me $1900 to regear not including the locker.
Gears: 250/each MAX
install kit: 150/each MAX
That's a max of $400/end in parts. Gear installation should be no more than 3 hours and end, especially w/ no locker. Even at $100/hour, that's only $600 - about $500 less than their estimate.
Even if you are driving the truck in and having them remove the diffs, I can see only 3 extra hours for that at the most, and maybe $20 worth of high-grade oil.
Dang - darned glad "I gotta guy" who does mine for $75/end.
#23
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Originally Posted by rockota
EGADS that's expensive!
Gears: 250/each MAX
install kit: 150/each MAX
That's a max of $400/end in parts. Gear installation should be no more than 3 hours and end, especially w/ no locker. Even at $100/hour, that's only $600 - about $500 less than their estimate.
Even if you are driving the truck in and having them remove the diffs, I can see only 3 extra hours for that at the most, and maybe $20 worth of high-grade oil.
Dang - darned glad "I gotta guy" who does mine for $75/end.
Gears: 250/each MAX
install kit: 150/each MAX
That's a max of $400/end in parts. Gear installation should be no more than 3 hours and end, especially w/ no locker. Even at $100/hour, that's only $600 - about $500 less than their estimate.
Even if you are driving the truck in and having them remove the diffs, I can see only 3 extra hours for that at the most, and maybe $20 worth of high-grade oil.
Dang - darned glad "I gotta guy" who does mine for $75/end.
#24
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Yeah, I saw your bumpers, I can imagine you are more than capable to drop the stuff, but I would still be happy to come by and drink beer.
Mine blows through the coupler, past the freeze plug and into the crawler box before emptying into the second case. It is quite a surprise to see ATF coming out of the crawler box.
Mine blows through the coupler, past the freeze plug and into the crawler box before emptying into the second case. It is quite a surprise to see ATF coming out of the crawler box.
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Yeah, I saw your bumpers, I can imagine you are more than capable to drop the stuff, but I would still be happy to come by and drink beer.
Mine blows through the coupler, past the freeze plug and into the crawler box before emptying into the second case. It is quite a surprise to see ATF coming out of the crawler box.
Mine blows through the coupler, past the freeze plug and into the crawler box before emptying into the second case. It is quite a surprise to see ATF coming out of the crawler box.
Last edited by cubuff4runner; 01-26-2005 at 08:28 AM.
#26
Originally Posted by rockota
Riddle me this...
If the leak is through the coupler, wouldn't that allow oil to pass between the tranny/tcase only? As long as the adapter is well sealed, the bad coupler shouldn't have anything to do with a leak, correct?
Like I mention, the only oil leaks I've seen on any marlin adapter has been through the vents - maybe I've been lucky?
If the leak is through the coupler, wouldn't that allow oil to pass between the tranny/tcase only? As long as the adapter is well sealed, the bad coupler shouldn't have anything to do with a leak, correct?
Like I mention, the only oil leaks I've seen on any marlin adapter has been through the vents - maybe I've been lucky?
On the manuals, it wouldn't be a problem. If it truly is leaking through the splines on the coulper, the simple soultion would be take it back apart and put gobs of sealer on the splines, then reassemble it, that will plug the leak.
The only time mine leaked was when the vent tube fell off, that was an easy fix.
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Originally Posted by BruceTS
On the manuals, it wouldn't be a problem. If it truly is leaking through the splines on the coulper, the simple soultion would be take it back apart and put gobs of sealer on the splines, then reassemble it, that will plug the leak.
The only time mine leaked was when the vent tube fell off, that was an easy fix.
The only time mine leaked was when the vent tube fell off, that was an easy fix.
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