wimpywade94

ok, so i know i should research this a little bit more, but hey , someone has to be bored and just let me know.

My tacoma is going to be gone, its getting close to the time to. im going to buy a 2ng gen runner,

i want 4" of lift, but i dont want to buy one of those crappy procomp lifts or something like that, spend over a grand, for no additional ride comfort or flex.

this wont be a big offroad rig, just camping int he summer, fishing etc.

i want to run 33's.

and also, does the 3slow do good in front of a slushbox, or is it a total dog? this will be my daily driver and i want an automatic but if the power loss is a huge differnce comparedto a manual, then i will stick with manual.

anyhoo. how do i clear 33's. with stock fenders, and a max of 2" body lift?

oh, and i also want to fix rear end sag

thanks
wade

jimbo74

you dont want to lift it other than a 2" bodylift? and you want 33s? i say fiberglass fenders and trimming.....

wimpywade94

no no no. i dont want to have more then 2" of lift from body lift,

im reading something about crusier coils, is that for a 2nd gen? i dont need to much just want it to look a little beefier then a stock one, but i also want something that i can throw into 4x4 and not worry about stock tires suckin balls.

my plan so far,
2nd gen runner
33's
enough lift to clear it,
tjm 15/17
hf winch
snorkel
lightbar

just stuff that is somewhat usefull but not full blown. like the hb winch, i would only use it mabey once or twice a year, no reason to spend 800+ to pull myself outta mud when im wheeling with buddys, but sometimes i think it would be usefull.
snorkel cause it looks cool and is somewhat usefull.
lightbar cause i dont wanna rack
ect. ect.

wade

wimpywade94

i like this runner, its 33's with 4" lift

i want to look like that but on the cheap.


wade

4RunnerKid

Cruiser coils, BJ spacers, and a 2" body lift should be plenty for 33s. Be sure to regear though. And throw in a locker...

wimpywade94

cool.

wade

redplastic2p3t

any underpowered engine sucks with a slushbox compaired to a manual, so if you have the patience to drive it with an auto go for broke man

rockota

By the time you do a good body lift ($200), Rear coils ($150), Ball joint spacers ($120) and new shocks ($200), you're not that far away from a well built 4" lift kit.

Not sure what you mean by "Crappy procomp lifts or something like that, spend over a grand, for no additional ride comfort or flex." You're building a truck to fit 33" tires - there are going to be sacrifices made to allow that to happen. There's really nothing crappy about these kits - they are well engineered and meet their design specs.

Personally, I'd wait for 4WP to have a sale and get the Superlift 4" kit for the 4Runner. It is a very high quality kit, very easy to install, and DOES increase travel in front by a good amount. Remove the sway bars, and enjoy the increased front travel and stock-quality ride.

deathrunner

personally I feel that he is waranted in his comments about the bracket kits. If you are merely looking for lift, bracket kits are great, but they will not increase travel or softrn the ride.

BJ spacers allow for you to unload the torsions which softens the ride. Or you can get lift with them and maintain the same ride.

With a 2 inch body lift and bj spacers you will fit 33's like a bracket kit, bur have a softer front end with more flex.

The superlift kit is the best in my opinion of the brackets if you go that route.

Oh yeah and slushbox or not.....with 33's plan on some 4.88 gears front and rear. Best money spent. on road and off.

rockota

When Rockstomper came out with it's IFS travel kit, I though "hmmm... cool idea". I bought it when I installed the SL kit on my ex's 4Runner. Turns out, the SL kit already had as travel as what the Rockstomper kit provided - the bumpstops were built in such a way that they increased travel significantly: The brackets dropped 4 and 4.5", the bumpstops only dropped 3.5" - essentially the same that Rockstomper used to get 11" of travel out of this style kit.

That, and the ability to re-index the torsion bars on the SL kit (got 6+ " out of the kit when I installed it - had to re-index the bars to lower the front to match the rear) provided a very soft and smooth ride.

I'd do it again in a heart beat.

deathrunner

Rockota-

I ran the Skyjacker lift for 2.5 years. The only difference between that and the SL is the fact that the center brackets are welded to the arm brackets. Making for a stronger bracket lift. I installed low profile bumpstops on my kit and that made a tiny difference.

Bracket kits space the upper and lower arms apart 4". The arms still move in the same range of travel. You still have stock travel. The kit provides no difference in the reference to the index of the torsion bar. You still use the stock arms and torsion mounts.

Long travel kits such as mine or total chaos increases the length of the arms which increases the travel at the outermost point of the arm (Where the tire mounts). By having a 3.5" longer arm my truck is able to pull 12" of travel with axles. I gaurantee that no bracket lift alone will come close to that amount of travel. 11" on rockstompers stuff??? If they are changing the bumpstop angle significantly, you would get more travel but certainly hurt your cvs. Maybe that's why they don't make it anymore. Please show me what you are talking about, I have never seen this.

I think stock IFS travel is 6-8" somewhere in there and that is what the bracket kits provide.


The BJ spacer allows you ro relax the torsion bar because: It spaces the upper and lower arms apart, but does not lower the diff. Now the arms are angled downwards because of the lift at the spindle and not the diff. Bracket kits sot level at this point. Because of this you can relax the torsion to bring the arms closer to the stock position and render a little more travel and a sfoter ride due to the relaxed torsion bar. Or you can leave it cranked but ride will suffer.

I'm glad you're pleased with your ride, but I am afraid you are misinformed.

upndair

My $.02 would be that if you want to run 33s you can do it without regearing. Not the best solution, but it can be done.
A 2" body lift with a little bit of fender trimming on the front will let the 33s fit.

I wouldn't go with the expense of a good suspension lift for 33s if you're not going to wheel it much. A 1" longer bump stop and you'll probably never rub a tire.

wimpywade94

They only problem i see with not regearing for 33's with a 3 slow and an auto would be long highway trips that i see, at least once, if not 3 times a month I go from eastern washington to western washington via white pass.

do you think I could pull 15-16 mpg with 32-33's without regearing with an auto tranny?

I dont.

but i also dont know if it will even get that mileage when new.

wade

upndair

Mileage I don't know. Regearing is a lot more money than your increased fuel consumption. 2 ring and pinion sets, master install kits and labor. You'll be $1000-1200 for only a minimal improvement in performance (mileage). That's alot of fuel!
The nice thing is that you can do the small lift and trim work for a couple hundred bucks and see how it works. You don't have to regear right away. If you do find that you want the extra power on the highway, then spend the money on the regear...

deathrunner

Honestly I bought my truck witha 4 inch bracket kits and 33x12.50's with stock gears. I drove it for a year and a half before the regear.

I got what appeared to be 16 mpg.....but I didn't factor in that my speedo and tripodometer were off by the gearing. So my mileage would actually have been a touch a little different in reality. I have a manual transmission and a 22re, though. But the 3.0 doesn't seem to have too much more power.

Even with a stick, it was a pita to drive. Don't get me wrong I drove around, but it wasn't enjoyable. I had to slip the clutch to get it rolling on flat ground, and let's just say I avoided steep hills all together. 5th gear was useless, it was like double overdrive. I only put it in 5th to humor myself. Top speed was 65 on the freeway and it dropped to 50-55 with any grade.

Moral of the story is that it's doable, but if you don't wheel alot, I'd take some agressive 31" over 33" without gears any day.It's only and extra inch of ground clearance.

wimpywade94

well in my last truck i had a set of 33X12.5's and my built 22re pushed them like no tommorow.

im thinking about just getting some 33's a 2" body lift, better rear springs or something to fix the sag and mabey some bj spacers or something, I kind of want to stay away from any fender cutting, put pinchweld, innerplastic fender etc dosent matter.

thanks for the info guys.

wade

upndair

The fender trimming is pretty minimal. It's the rear portion of the front fender. It can be trimmed quite nicely. The other part that may need to be trimmed is the seam at the rear of the fenderwell... This is trimmed best with a grinder and sledgehammer.

wimpywade94

cool,


its going to be at least 2 months down the road till i get it but i like to plan things.


thanks again

wade

chef robbie

i have a 95 4runner 3" body lift 33x12.50x15 and i have no prob w/ clearence... gears are fine too...
but im gettin ready to go to 35" tires so i know i will have 2 change gears and get a suspention lift

Flygtenstein

All you need for real 33's is a 1" bodylift.

Using narrow 33's, like 10.5's can be done with creative trimming and no lift.

Regearing to 5.29's is the right way to make the 3.0 auto not so doggy.

BJ spacers are a way to increase travel and should not be used purely for lift.

33's and a rear locker will get you a lot of places. The other locker will get you the rest.

I have 33x12.5's on my 95 with a 1" bodylift and 5.29 gears.