fourwd1

Depends on how much $ you want to spend. The 22R can be built. Check out LCEngineering for starters.

kyle_22r

if you're feeling fiesty, you can drop in a supra engine, it'll bolt up to your engine and transmission but the wiring and exhaust are different, not to mention it's a good deal longer, being a straight 6.

if you want to build the 22R check out engnbldr's site. he has very good deals on master kits and sells oversized valves and camshafts

deathrunner

I have a header, free flow cat. muffler and K&N filtyercharger kit. The gains were moderate. The header was the best install, but it didn't come to life without the other stuff.

The 22RE is buildable, but realize that it is definitely at the expense of Mileage and Engine life.

Exhaust,headers, cat, intake, ignition, electric fan, and a mild cam are about the only mods that will keep your engine in the efficient mileage and ultra reliable range.

All depends on how you plan to use it.

If it will be a daily driver and you absolutely need more power....swap in something bigger. The 22RE can only go so far safely.

just my 0.02

THE04Runner

Death...its an 84 so that would make it a 22R right? So any major differences between the two other then the gas thing (sorry memory lapse)

kyle_22r

the biggest thing is that the engine changed slightly in '85. the R series before then used large chambers and domed pistons, in '85 the head got taller and the block shorter, and the engines used small chambers and flat top pistons. not really interchangeable internally, but most goodies still work on them(cams, carbs, ignition, just about every bolt-on item exept headers)

deathrunner

I believe the RE has a shorter stroke. And the R a longer stroke. Which would allow the RE to rev higher and give the R more torque. Correct me if I'm wrong but I remember reading that.

chaos_cascade_

Correct me if i'm wrong but the big difference tween and 84 and 85 is fuel injection.

My 84 was slow with 31' bfg's. When i put five kayaks and five people in it Well lets just say i was neck and neck with all the old VW vans up to the summit. LC engineering has some sweet parts but wow are they spendy. Both to buy then pay for gas. Not an option here in Cali with smog laws. I bought my 3rd gen with the v6 cheaper then you can buy their stage five step up and put it in. Unless you install motors and the like.

Their is a guy in portland who keeps trying to sell his first gen with 80% done swap to the 3.4 liter. I've seen him post on ebay twice and i think last time he still fell below reserve around 1,825 bucks.

Just a heads up. I surfed alot and went through three sets of side windows for the fiberglass shell. The window housing rusts easily. Primer the hell out of it then paint it. If you see and rust jump on it cus it will drip down and begin to rust out your rear quarter under the drain holes.

Coolest mod is you can put a small amp behind the glove box liner and thieves never look there. And if you got water that high in your rig you have bigger problems anyway.

Good luck with her. Careful going sideways on ice to hit deep snow on the shoulder.

fourwd1

Well ? Did you ever get the Runner ?

If so, if you ever get up near Balto you can check out my '84 and see what kind of "mods" can be done.

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Jeez Landon....the sky is the limit for mods but based on your location in MD which has limited tough stuff, I would say do some 33" tires, 3" leafpack lift, some new ring/pinions, a rear Locker and maybe some real bumpers that have wrap-around corner protection. Then invest in some camping gear.
check your pm's. ZUK

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Your sig?

T.O.Y.O.T.A.
TAKE OFF YER OVERSIZED TIRES BUDDY

Me thinks you gotz it wrong!

Tacoma Dude

He had another word there for a few weeks but I'm sure it's been changed to comply with some forum rules...

THE04Runner

Hey, with posts to the 4Runner, I havnt gotten it yet, and im thinkin of getting a bit of a newer one, but my problem is that im a lil short on the money. Thanks for all the feedback everyone, and if you have more ideas, im sure others would still appreciate it along with me, thx yall
-Toast

SloPoke

I have just recently bought an 84 standard cab long bed 4x4 and have been lookin' in to what all I can do to it. Mine has a broken timing chain so I'm suspecting it'll need a complete top end rebuild. Anyways.....here's a copy paste of a bunch of info I've found so far on the R series engines.....Enjoy!

The 20R 2200cc. / 22R 2400cc. engines were the most popular US Toyota engines. For 20 years, 1975 to 1995, these motors served as U.S.Toyota's dependable workhorse engine. These engines powered the popular Celicas until 1985, and the unbreakable Pick-up models used these engines until 1995 (in commercial models). Turbo models appeared briefly as the 22RTE in 1985-1988 on Pick-up and 4Runners. The 22RE Fuel injection models appeared in 1983, on some Celica and Pick-up models. In 1985- the 22RE had a major change. The block was taller and the head shorter, compared to the earlier models. The engines' blocks and heads are not interchangeable (for practical and cost purpose).
The engines are OHC design, with hemispherical combustion chambers. The cross-flow head was very efficient, short of a 2 or 4 valve (per cylinder) Twin Cam. The long stroke provided a lot of torque at a reasonable RPM range. The engine responded well to all the tuning tricks. The 20R head is different from the 22R heads. The 20R had open combustion chambers and the 22R had a swirl-inducing chamber (for cleaner emissions). The intake ports on the 20R were round, and rectangular on the 22R. Exhaust ports were identical round design. The later 22RE (with the shorter deck height) had keyhole shaped exhaust ports. There were available 22RE models that used the earlier 22R head, in the 1982 to 1984 Celica GTS. All 22RE from 1985 used the later blocks and heads.
The 22RTE Turbo engine was based on the later model 22RE (short block /tall head). This is a similar but entirely different block and head. The block was drilled with different oil passages to accommodate the Turbo oil requirements. The cylinder head's combustion chamber had a different shape. The piston was dished. Advertised horsepower was 145. The factory set the boost at 5.5-6 pounds, but completely stock internals survived boosts of up to 17-22 pounds, with proper fuel injection modifications. This is a testimony to the bulletproof bottom end design.
There was a Japanese version 21R 2000cc, which had both an early and late model cylinder head similar to the 20R and 22R. These were imported due to the big demand for used engines. There is nothing of interest from these engines.
Modifying the 20R / 22R / 22RE / 22RTE Engines
BLOCK: The best set-up is achieved by starting with a 20R head and a 22R early block. This allows the use of the twin-row timing chains- over the late model single-chain type. Boring the 20R to 92mm is possible but some castings will develop bubbles in the bores that eventually clean up at 92mm. The high compression pistons for the 20R / 22R are forged. The stock early 22RE piston (full crown type) can also be used under the 20R head but the block and deck must not have more than .5mm cut, if used with big valves.
The 20R / 22R early and 22RE late model, responds well to high compression pistons. The rods can be prepped by stress relieving and shot-peening. The crankshaft oil galleys may be chamfered. High Tensile bolts can be upgraded to ARP- main, rods, and head bolts or stud kits.
The early and late style blocks have different engine mounting bosses, so interchangeability of late block to early chassis and vice versa may come up. Some early and late blocks have provisions for both. Really early and really late blocks do not have these provisions. When preparing an engine, make sure that the block has the correct mounting boss- or else you will have to deal with modifying them mounts.
The 22RTE with forged pistons will survive 25 lbs! A metal head gasket is required.

CYLINDER HEAD: It is mandatory to port all the heads. Big valves are also necessary to achieve and maximize the flow. Avoid cutting more than .50mm since valve clearance may be a problem with some piston combinations. Tri-Y headers work the best because they complement the wide torque band of these engines. If you are converting into the 20R head make sure that the 20R head has provisions for power steering (if you have power steering).
The choice in camshafts from many sources, must be carefully considered. High lift and long duration cams may affect the rocker arm geometry (and oil spraying function of the oil feed). Unless you take the time to ensure that the rocker arms are repositioned correctly (modifying the rocker assembly) do not even attempt. The long stroke / low RPM design of the engine dictates very mild cam lift and duration. You cannot redesign an engine with camshafts! Mild cams up to about 280 duration will work with the EFI with some adjustments to the AFM (air flow meter).
Stiffer valve springs are a safeguard from valve-float, but will not enhance performance since the best cam profiles will run fine with stock valve springs. An adjustable camshaft gear will allow the most accurate setting (remember that a Celica is totally different from a 4WD Pick-up).
There are no TwinCam heads available for these engines.
The 22RTE head chambers can be opened to lower compression and increase the flow. Big valves should also be considered, but not obligatory since this is forced induction.
FUEL SYSTEM: Twin side draft carburetors are a natural choice, but the EFI system will work excellent if the vehicle is originally equipped with one. (Some manifolds for the dual carbs have poorly designed water outlets that may cause overheating.) Long duration cams will seriously affect EFI engines, since combustion pressure drop dramatically even with high compression pistons. A fuel pressure adjuster may be needed. The Weber 32/36 or 38DPS are good upgrades for single carb set-ups. For carburetors, use a low pressure, high volume fuel pumps. Do not try to regulate lower fuel pressure with an adjuster because volume will also decrease. A fuel return line is mandatory to allow the fuel pump and carburetor to function properly. For any kind of performance do not rely on Toyota's mechanical or electric pump, they do not have enough volume. The 22RTE with any upgrade will need a higher output pump. The fuel pressure regulator should also be upgraded.
TURBO UPGRADE: The 22RTE needs forged pistons for any serious performance upgrade. The CT26 Supra Turbo (not the MR2/AllTrac) can be installed with minor fabrication. With boost controller, upgraded fuel delivery, 3" exhaust system, and intercooler- the 22RTE will put out in excess of 350HP, at about 25 psi!
Normally aspirated 20R / 22R engines can be turbocharged without too much problems. The stock pistons have to be replaced with low compression forged units.

IGNITION SYSTEM: The basic ignition unit was designed for low revving conditions. The electronics must be updated to the performance level intended for the engines. EFI engines converted to carburetors must use carburetor style distributors. Ignition amplifiers and knock sensors must be used to avoid high RPM misfires and detonation.

Some Recommended Set-ups:
For stock configuration- the 20R / 22R / 22RE engines are very easy to work on. Due to different emission requirements for the different model years, try to work on the original engine. Porting the head will increase breathing and will not hurt emissions- so basically to stay legal and improve performance- the cylinder head must be ported. The early 22RE pistons can be used to upgrade the 20R to 2400cc.
For modified configuration- the 20R head on top of early 22Rs will instantly give higher compression. All heads must be ported with big valves installed. Be careful of camshaft choice, just remember that all slow modified 20 / 22R / 22RE engines have been over-cammed. Do not try to install cams with duration over 280 on single carb or fuel injection models. Twin side carburetors are the best way to go. For limited budget use the Weber 38 DPS. Headers installed with 2 3/4" exhaust will be optimal. A heavier flywheel will help 4WD models, that should also have the gear ratios changed to compensate for tire sizes.
For turbo set-up- forged pistons, ported head with open chambers, big valves, TO4 or CT26 turbo, 3" exhaust, mild cam, Carillo Rods, boost controller, blow-off valve and keep the boost under 25 psi!!

I've got few posts on some Celica boards looking for and 84 EFI intake, harness, ecu, and all that junk but if swappin' in EFI doesn't pan out what I'd like to do is convert it to propane and and dry sump oil but we'll just have to wait and see as I've just barely started this project and for some reason, I can't seem to stay on a single project very long. hehe

jimbo74

slopoke... whats the history on the engine? the 22r series are interference engines and if the chain broke, its paossible the piston hit the valves, and could have easily damaged the pistons as well as the upper end...

Tacoma750

crawler#976 said "Seriously, a Toy motor won't spin a 44 Swamper or 45" tractor tires in 40" of slop"

Well dude, sry but im gonna totaly disagree with you. Chekc it out. My friend Mike has an 84 toyota pickup with duece rears, custom 25 inch lift, and spinnin 44s in sloppy mud ALL DAY LONG! No problem @ all. So it can be done. Yes it will kill the motor after some time, but yea it'll work

SloPoke

The guy I bought it from bout it from the original owner. Not sure what the original owner used it for but the guy I bought it from used it just to get to his fishin' holes. It was his DD till it just quit working sitting at a stop light. It happened to be real close to his house so they pushed it back. Sat there for a couple weeks and he saw me goin' in a local primarily peeJ offroad shop (Violent Customs). Cought me before I entered (aparently he was gettitng off work and worked across the street) told me it was a 88, didn't run, and he wanted $50 for it if I'd haul it off. It turned out being an 84 with no rust or leaks on the underside and was $500 not $50. I jewd on him fer a while and he wouldn't budge so I bought it up fer $500. Cranked it in gear on and off the trailer as well as up my drivway and in the garage where it's been moved out and in and out and in and out adn in many times since then. When being cranked in gear, you hear no noise from anything but it cranking. No metalic sounds ar all.

Here in the next couple months I'll be tearing in to it. The head will come off so everything will get inspected. Still researchin for....I dono, I just keep reading up on it cuz I don't have the fundage yet to start the project.