Breezey

I just though I would share this post:


My Friend at bentup.com just finished SAS :









MOre pictures here:

http://bentup.com/Customers/SASdTundra.html

Robinhood150

So this is the 2nd SAS'd tundra? There's some pictures of a guy (I think his name is Joe?) who was testing his out at moab a while ago.

Cebby

Yep, the other one is burgundy. Joe also has the first Marlin adapter for the Tundra.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/trundradual.html

914runner

Looks great!

BruceTS

Yea, that's Tedd's Tundra, but he was having some issues with the drag link clearances. I'm not too sure if he's got it straightend out yet.

I got to see Joe's rig out at the Jamboree in Johnson's Valley, but he too has a few issues that need to be worked on. After he tore off one of his 4-link mounts on the rear of his rig, I took a closer look at the fabrication job. To make a long story short he'll be having Shaffer Offroad reworking his rig this summer. I welded the mount back in place and he drove it up to Marlin's shop with FWD only....

Ironically, I managed to buy their used CV axles......

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I can't put my finger on why, but when I look at that rig my first reaction is "I don't like it" and it's even black...curiously interesting...

It's a nice SAS job it seems, but I'm guessing it's the camper shell that just doesn't do it for me.

It's got some serious flex though!

data

very very nice!!! Those guys at bentup.com seem like they do some pretty good work!

Fink

Thats friggin awesome! At first I didn't like it...like waskilly...but its growing on me.

I wanna SAS my rig SOO bad!

Fink

Breezey

tundra looks bad ass hehe

nags

What exactly does SAS mean?

Joe

If it's done properly, it stands for Solid Axle Swap or in some cases, ˟˟˟˟ty axle setup.

wimpywade94

theres a sas'd tundra the runs the trails around here i see once in a while, never get to talk to him though, its pretty nice, ill get pics if i can next time.

wade

1tonMike

Thats a pretty sweet looking Tundra. What axle was used for the swap?

Scofco

Other than the fake bullet holes on the door, that thing is sweet!

The mesh idea between the bumper and the body is a good idea also.

tms2u

Hey that looks like my rig!!!!

Yeah AJ did me right, but as Bruce mentioned I still have some clearance issues with my TR and DL. I really wanna stay w/ HySteer, but may have to bring it down. No easy T100 oil pan swap option, although a landcruiser pan may be an option, but the entire bottom of the engine needs to be swapped to make it fit. Or I could just do a custom pan.

I just got done remodeling my pad so I will have some time to do some wheelin this month.

Thanks for the kudos- BTW I live by Venice, so the bullet holes make me feel at home

tms2u

A more recent pic:



AJ and I finished the swap in 2 1/2 days!!!

BTW- there are actually 4 SAS'ed Tuns: A guy down in FL who had his rig stollen and dumped in a pond, Joes, mine, and one that was up for sale on Ebay

My web page is down right now- I have all the details there, but I hope that I'll have it back up soon.

If someone want a shell, I'm planning on going flatbed by summers end.

If anyone has any futher Q's I'll be happy to answer them

Joe

Tedd,
I just got my Tundra up and running again and I believe all issues are solved for the time being. On the Hysteer, the drag link issue was solved by running the steering box as far forward on the frame as possible. You'll have to cut and grind a little to get the extra 2 inches but it'll then clear the oil pan. You shouldn't have a problem with the nut coming loose on the heim joints on the drag link but to ease that concern you can tack weld the nuts and they'll never come loose but if you ever have to readjust the drag link (for steering wheel position) a bf crescent wrench can break the tack weld.

Bruce,
Thanks for putting me onto Shaffer's OffRoad - they solved every issue and then some. The Y-Link rear is beefy and now I have absolutely no vibrations and no popping sounds what so ever (the Rubicon Joints are the cat's meow). I probably have like a half inch of squat so I'm dieing to see the difference in climbing ability as it climbed like a bitch before. The steering has zero bumpsteer and is nice and tight. IMO Shaffer's OffRoad is second to none - wish I had known about them then I did my SAS, as they would have done it right the first time. I really raved about the shop in New Mexico but everything they did had big issues with a little hard use - I can no longer recommend that "muffler" shop as nothing in the rear held up and I had issues with the front shackles, U-bolts, ball joints and springs. I now know why I couldn't find any associates who knew anything about them.

tms2u

Hey Joe-

Good to hear you're back in the saddle!

My biggest prob is w/ my TR. The DL clears pretty good right into the concave area of the front part of the pan, but the TR is only about 2.5-3" from the bottom of the pan and it contacts if I hit a bump hard. I added some monster bumpstops to mellow it out some, but it still hits. I might switch out my knuckles to keep the crossover, but drop the TR down in front. I still have not mounted my ram as I haven't decided what to do yet. All in all, I think it rides much nicer now, but I have already had to replace a set of wheel bearings due to a loose spindle nut :pat:

I was hoping to be headed up north this week, but work and the new pad have conspired to keep me around town. Hoping August will let me get up in the hills

Albuquerque Jim

Joe, what shop in NM? You can PM me if you don't want to say it on the board. I just want to avoid them in the future.

Joe

Maybe a different designed Hysteer arm will solve that problem. Tim @ shakerbuilt can probably help solve your problem as he can fab up anything that a guy can think up.
http://www.shakerbuilt.com/