Towing a Tacoma on a dolly
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Towing a Tacoma on a dolly
Going to put my daily driver on a tow dolly and take it about 800 miles behind my motor home.
1998 excab, 3.4, auto, 4x4, elocker
I have read conflicting information on how to to configure the transmission and transfer case.
Some say put the trans in neutral and the transfer case in neutral and all will be good.
Some say that damage will occur to the transmission and/or transfer case and the only thing to do is remove the rear driveline.
Anyone have a definitive answer?
I know its not that big of a deal to unbolt the rear driveline at the rear 3rd and strap it up but I would rather not if I dont have to.
Any thoughts?
1998 excab, 3.4, auto, 4x4, elocker
I have read conflicting information on how to to configure the transmission and transfer case.
Some say put the trans in neutral and the transfer case in neutral and all will be good.
Some say that damage will occur to the transmission and/or transfer case and the only thing to do is remove the rear driveline.
Anyone have a definitive answer?
I know its not that big of a deal to unbolt the rear driveline at the rear 3rd and strap it up but I would rather not if I dont have to.
Any thoughts?
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Having friends that do Towing and Recovery for fun and profit
Rule of thumb is any rear wheel drive vehicle has the rear axle on the ground the drive shaft gets pulled from the rear.
I have the worst luck I would rather be safe then take a chance
This is like the debate remove the negative battery cable before welding on a vehicle some say it is not needed why pay for new electronics if you can avoid it.
Rule of thumb is any rear wheel drive vehicle has the rear axle on the ground the drive shaft gets pulled from the rear.
I have the worst luck I would rather be safe then take a chance
This is like the debate remove the negative battery cable before welding on a vehicle some say it is not needed why pay for new electronics if you can avoid it.
#5
#6
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
dntsdad---- I have a snapshot of my owner's manual towing page here.....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t.../#post52306548
I want to share a story I shouldn't tell..... regarding the dis-connecting the battery while welding.....I'm a rebel of sorts....I'm guilty of doing the no-no.....I never bothered to dis-connect the battery from my rigs all the way back to 1991 when I had a MIG.
Just the day before yesterday, I had the tacoma's radio tuned to an fm station(key turned to acc.) and was blaring it while I was welding the shock tower on.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t.../#post52306548
I want to share a story I shouldn't tell..... regarding the dis-connecting the battery while welding.....I'm a rebel of sorts....I'm guilty of doing the no-no.....I never bothered to dis-connect the battery from my rigs all the way back to 1991 when I had a MIG.
Just the day before yesterday, I had the tacoma's radio tuned to an fm station(key turned to acc.) and was blaring it while I was welding the shock tower on.
#7
Registered User
Yes and no. Disconnecting the + or - does the same thing, it's the danger of what could happen which makes "experts" always say to remove the negative.
Here's someone saying it better than me:
"So if you disconnect the positive terminal and then, for example accidentally touch a spanner between the positive terminal and the chassis you will create a short-circuit. This can cause significant sparking and damage to the battery. However if you disconnect the negative and accidentally touch a spanner between the negative terminal and the chassis then all you will do is complete the circuit as it is designed to operate and because it under load the sparking is minimal."
Here's someone saying it better than me:
"So if you disconnect the positive terminal and then, for example accidentally touch a spanner between the positive terminal and the chassis you will create a short-circuit. This can cause significant sparking and damage to the battery. However if you disconnect the negative and accidentally touch a spanner between the negative terminal and the chassis then all you will do is complete the circuit as it is designed to operate and because it under load the sparking is minimal."
Trending Topics
#9
dntsdad---- I have a snapshot of my owner's manual towing page here.....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t.../#post52306548
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/t.../#post52306548
Last edited by MudHippy; 03-14-2016 at 09:31 AM.
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Ahhh..so it's a real no-brainer after all(for the dolly on the front, or no tow dolly, I mean). That makes sense to me. I'd already figured out the part where the transfer case gets lubed as long as it's in gear(and a drivehaft is spinning). Well...a chain drive does anyway(which is all I know). Never made much sense to me how a manual transmission being in neutral could ever possibly do any harm to it. Everything is sitting in oil.
Just to clarify, for any automatic trans, the owners manual says to
- put tow dolly under rear tires (pull it backward)
- turn the key to ACC (to unlock steering column, since steering lock IS NOT strong enough to hold tires straight)
- put trans in neutral and 2H for transfer case.
BECAUSE THAT SOUNDS SKETCHY AS HELL!
Last edited by vasinvictor; 03-14-2016 at 10:55 AM.
#11
I meant for a manual transmission. I should have said so first...not last. My bad. I know you're right though. I wasn't trying to argue, or explain anything to anyone(except myself). I figured the OP's question was already answered. Minor threadjack I suppose.
Oh...and no, that's not something I'd EVER do with any vehicle either. Just asking for trouble IMO.
EDIT: The transfer case thing is sort of confusing though.
Fact: A chain drive transfer case has an oil pump driven by the input shaft. While in gear, the input shaft is connected to, and can be driven by, the front and/or rear driveshafts, or the motor/transmission output shaft. If the input shaft isn't being spun by the motor/transmission output shaft, or a driveshaft, the oil pump can't operate. This is why you must leave the transfer case in gear(as opposed to removing the rear driveshaft). And is also why transfer cases have no neutral. They sort of do...I know...but there's no reason to ever try using it. Unless you're trying to wreck your transfer case...
Oh...and no, that's not something I'd EVER do with any vehicle either. Just asking for trouble IMO.
EDIT: The transfer case thing is sort of confusing though.
Fact: A chain drive transfer case has an oil pump driven by the input shaft. While in gear, the input shaft is connected to, and can be driven by, the front and/or rear driveshafts, or the motor/transmission output shaft. If the input shaft isn't being spun by the motor/transmission output shaft, or a driveshaft, the oil pump can't operate. This is why you must leave the transfer case in gear(as opposed to removing the rear driveshaft). And is also why transfer cases have no neutral. They sort of do...I know...but there's no reason to ever try using it. Unless you're trying to wreck your transfer case...
Last edited by MudHippy; 03-14-2016 at 02:48 PM.
#12
Registered User
It's been a few years since I towed with a tow dolly but the UHaul video I watched said specifically not to tow backwards. Something something about the turn radius. I went to YouTube to find the video and they have newer videos. I did pull the driveshaft. You didn't say if you are using a UHaul or borrowing a friend's tow dolly. The UHaul has a surge brake. It was wired with a four flat trailer harness but the surge brakes worked really well in the mountains. I'm glad I watched the videos because the UHaul store did not mention the brakes to me and it would have freaked me out if I didn't know about them. This isn't the same video I watched and haven't watched this one but it might help:
#13
Ahhh..so it's a real no-brainer after all(for the dolly on the front, or no tow dolly, I mean). That makes sense to me. I'd already figured out the part where the transfer case gets lubed as long as it's in gear(and a drivehaft is spinning). Well...a chain drive does anyway(which is all I know). Never made much sense to me how a manual transmission being in neutral could ever possibly do any harm to it. Everything is sitting in oil.
plus i will go with the word of Marlin
Flat Towing a Toyota
Originally Posted by Marlin Crawler
On all auto chain driven and manual gear driven t/cases, if it is towed in two wheel drive, the output shaft will turn, but there will be no way for the oil at the bottom of the case to get to the top where the output shaft is. On the chain driven cases, the input shaft turns the planetary housing which drives the oil pump. Gear driven cases use the input gear and low range gears to throw oil on the inside of the housing that collects the oil via gutters and directs it to the rear of the case by gravity. Both style of cases, must have the input shaft spinning to lube the output shaft, speedo gears, and rear seal of the t/case. The rear driveshaft must be removed.
Marlin
#14
Super Moderator
Staff
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Anderson Missouri
Posts: 11,788
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
20 Posts
There is a Pathfinder that was towed with the driveshaft in and it ruined the transfer case here where I live.
To the original poster just want to make you aware of no backing with a tow dolly. You have 3 pivot points, hitch, tow dolly tires and the tires on the ground. Pay attention when making stops that you have a good entrance and exit.
To the original poster just want to make you aware of no backing with a tow dolly. You have 3 pivot points, hitch, tow dolly tires and the tires on the ground. Pay attention when making stops that you have a good entrance and exit.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JCBond
95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners
27
02-08-2016 05:00 AM
mapemberton12
General Electrical & Lighting Related Topics
2
01-10-2016 02:01 PM