Q-DawgVFR

So, timing belt job is done, truck runs OK. Water pump seemed to be not leaking anywhere. So, I go for a drive for a little while and come home. I decide it is a good time to double check for leaks and to check my diff fluids / transfer case.

AND.......

Coolant is dripping from a few places under the engine.

Panic sets in and I think to myself: "Great. You just did all this work to save money and you screwed it up. At least if you went to a shop for the work you could tell them to fix it again or get your money back or something. This is gonna be painful if you have to do it all over and buy a new timing belt, etc."

Then, a glimmer of hope.....

The line to the thermostat housing (from oil cooler) is a little wet on the end. Hmmmm. It was a real bugger to get off the old pump. Weird thing is I have coolant on the starter wire under the crank pulley. Seems to have travelled either from the front of the engine around oil pan to rear, or the other way around. I pulled the top timing cover back (glad now that I modified it to do this without removing rad hose), and I look all around with a mirror and work light. Bone dry. Timing belt is dry.

So I look underneath the truck and it is pretty wet near the oil filter on the engine with coolant. And I notice the dipstick tube is touching one end of the tension clamp for the coolant hose. That COULD be the problem. So I repostioned the clamp so that the oil dipstick was no longer touching it and doused the area with brake cleaner to try to clean it all up. I'll try it out tomorrow to see if it leaks again. I think if it does, that the hose being replaced is all that is necessary to stop the leak.

Or at least I am really hoping that is the case.

Q-DawgVFR

Yup, definately the hose leaking. Glad it's the simpler fix. anyone know what size that hose is?

MTL_4runner

Glad it was easy.

Is the hose actually toast or is the leak just where the hose mates to the engine? I ask because often just a little sanding with some fine sandpaper and reseating the clamp is enough to stop the leaks. Worst case you can sand the area, clean it with brake cleaner and the use a thin layer of RTV on the male side of the connection to seal the hose. Let it sit overnight before refilling and driving. I had this happen to mine and fixed it this way.

Q-DawgVFR

I may do all of that.

I've also been told that spring tension clamps are less reliable in smaller diameters and lose much of their 'springiness' as they get older. Apparently, Ford has gone away from them and back to standard hose clamps (for smaller sizes) in several applications.

So other than a new chunk of hose, I thought I would just go to standard clamps. I find the spring clamps a huge pain to manipulate using pliers, and prefer screw type clamps as they can be cinched down pretty tight.

Ought to do the trick, I think.

Q-DawgVFR

Here is the tool I had made for holding the crank pulley:



It worked flawlessly.

gpcollen1

That is pretty sweet! I still like my $5 version but that is heavy duty. If I used mine multiple times, i would definitely have to replace the wood portion.

Q-DawgVFR

Thanks. no way I was gonna chance something breaking or slipping, with that kind of torque being exerted. (I like my teeth where they are: in my mouth!) My thought was that it may get used more than once. I kind of plan to get a newer 3rd gen in a couple years or so when Wifey gets out of school. Might still keep this one, though. So the tool could get used once or twice again. Plus, if I drill other holes, I could probably use this for other similar jobs, such as cam pulleys if needed.

BruceTS

just get a piece of C channel long enough to rest against the frame and drill a few holes......

gpcollen1

The wooden one is not dangerous at all. I rested it against the frame when loosening the bolt and had a buddy around when I tightened it. I am going to pull mine apart and save the bolts in a baggie for next time. I only need a scrap 2x4 to do it again.

Wolfpack

Timing belt question... In looking at different brands/manufacturers of timing belts, I see Dayco/Duralast, Beck Arnley, Hi Tech, Gatorback, AE Clevite, Goodyear.... Are there any recommendations on what brand to go with? I also notice weight in some of the descriptions...would the heaviest be the best and most heavy duty?

Just curious since the Goodyear is like $16 with 1yr warranty and the others are all the way up to $50-60...
Thanks.

aowRS

Wolfpack,
I am very close to doing this job and will pick up all the parts directly from Toyota. Enough people have done timing belts on these and remarked how perfectly sound the original belt still looked - at much higher mileage then recommended. For $30 or so, I'd go with what works from the factory.

That said, the "Porsche" labled belts on my 993 are made by Dayco. FWIW.

Andreas

Wolfpack

That being said... Does anyone know the OEM brand to get?

Wolfpack

Ok - sorry for the multiple posts. I guess my debate is shortened to the following:
Goodyear Gatorback belt onsale for $16 (down from $49)
vs
Duralast Dayco belt for $27

I know the parts on this one is the cheap part since I am paying to have it done... Just want to get the best belt for it.
Thanks in advance.

toy_tek

I'd stay away from Dayco. I used to work at an autoparts store that sold them - junk. There's a reason they have a lifetime guarantee...

Go with Toyota or Gates.

gpcollen1

Go to your dealer and get the belt. There is not one reason to do otherwise.