Stripped oil drain bolt threads
#1
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Stripped oil drain bolt threads
I'll save you guys some typing: I'm an idiot.
Now, on to the problem. I was attempting my first ever home oil change today. Normally I just take my cars to Jiffy Lube. The oil drain bolt was in EXTREMELY TIGHT. I had to brace my feet against the wheel and use my legs to get enough leverage to move the bolt.
I wasn't sure which way to turn the bolt, so I tried both ways. After many tries both ways, it finally broke free in the clockwise direction. Figuring if that was the way it wanted to move, then I'd just go with it. Turned and turned for about 2 hours, until I finally got enough sense to stop. But of course the damage is done.
There is practically no oil leaking from the bolt. What do I do now? Any ideas how I can get the bolt out? Should I just have someone who knows what they're doing fix it for me?
Now, on to the problem. I was attempting my first ever home oil change today. Normally I just take my cars to Jiffy Lube. The oil drain bolt was in EXTREMELY TIGHT. I had to brace my feet against the wheel and use my legs to get enough leverage to move the bolt.
I wasn't sure which way to turn the bolt, so I tried both ways. After many tries both ways, it finally broke free in the clockwise direction. Figuring if that was the way it wanted to move, then I'd just go with it. Turned and turned for about 2 hours, until I finally got enough sense to stop. But of course the damage is done.
There is practically no oil leaking from the bolt. What do I do now? Any ideas how I can get the bolt out? Should I just have someone who knows what they're doing fix it for me?
Last edited by payneinthe; 04-19-2003 at 06:06 PM.
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maybe you could try leaving the drain plug in since it isn't leaking and just drill and tap a new hole, maybe 1/2-13 or something so the bit will fit in a regular drill, at least, until you have a chance to go to the stealership or even a junkyard and pick up a new oil pan. that's what it boils down to, a new (or salvaged) pan.
#5
Yeah, If it was me I would price around and get a new oil pan. When/If you price around for a new oil pan check with Jay Mark's Toyota. I think they are in the Vendors section. I've ordered from them a couple of times and they are alot cheaper then anyone around.
By the way, Welcome to the Forum.
By the way, Welcome to the Forum.
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Originally posted by Krash
Yeah, If it was me I would price around and get a new oil pan. When/If you price around for a new oil pan check with Jay Mark's Toyota. I think they are in the Vendors section. I've ordered from them a couple of times and they are alot cheaper then anyone around.
Yeah, If it was me I would price around and get a new oil pan. When/If you price around for a new oil pan check with Jay Mark's Toyota. I think they are in the Vendors section. I've ordered from them a couple of times and they are alot cheaper then anyone around.
By the way, Welcome to the Forum.
Btw, the vehicle in question is a 98 2wd 4Runner (4cyl, auto).
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#8
What I do is use Jay Mark's Toyota Quote form to find out a price from them, they are fairly quick to respond.
Click Here for that form
Click Here for that form
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Trying to pull the pan and get a new one in is going to be much more of a PITA than trying to re-tap the hole.
Its worth a shot to call the Jiffy Lube manager and tell them that they were at fault for over-torquing it. It helps to be able to tell them the correct tourque setting when you call. Its in the 13 ft./lbs. neighborhood. They probably put it on closer to 130 ft./lbs.
This is standard procedure at that type of buisness. They put everything on so frigging tight that no mere mortal like you and I can undo them with hand tools next time it needs an oil change, therefore you have to come back for your next service and they try to charge you for a new plug when they ruin it trying to get it off.
Try to put the blame where it belongs, on Jiffy Lube. Sometimes if they realize that you know what you are talking about, they will pay to fix their dammage.
The worst that can happen is that they refuse to take any blame. In that case you are in the same boat that you are now but no worse off.
Good luck.
Its worth a shot to call the Jiffy Lube manager and tell them that they were at fault for over-torquing it. It helps to be able to tell them the correct tourque setting when you call. Its in the 13 ft./lbs. neighborhood. They probably put it on closer to 130 ft./lbs.
This is standard procedure at that type of buisness. They put everything on so frigging tight that no mere mortal like you and I can undo them with hand tools next time it needs an oil change, therefore you have to come back for your next service and they try to charge you for a new plug when they ruin it trying to get it off.
Try to put the blame where it belongs, on Jiffy Lube. Sometimes if they realize that you know what you are talking about, they will pay to fix their dammage.
The worst that can happen is that they refuse to take any blame. In that case you are in the same boat that you are now but no worse off.
Good luck.
Last edited by jx94148; 04-19-2003 at 08:31 PM.
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You can buy a tap and die kit at a place that sells bolts. Or just buy the correct size tap. Chances are when the bolt is out you can run the tap in there and get the new bolt to work. Also you could go ond tap size larger (15mm?) and then get a great fit but you'll have to get a drain bolt that fits.
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Thanks for the suggestions. Any ideas how to get the bolt out? I tried to pry a screwdriver under it, but there's not enough space. I tried pulling and turning with a pair of vice-grips. No luck there either.
#14
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Payne,
It sounds like you might be uncomfy doing this by yourself so:
I would first go to your local gas station, explain the problem, and ask if they can re-tap it for you. If so, I'd let them do the whole thing. They'll use an impact rachet to remove your old bolt, let the oil drain, and re-tap the thread. Oh, bring your own oil.
This shouldn't be a difficult task for even an average mechanic.
By the way, where are you in LA?
Bob
It sounds like you might be uncomfy doing this by yourself so:
I would first go to your local gas station, explain the problem, and ask if they can re-tap it for you. If so, I'd let them do the whole thing. They'll use an impact rachet to remove your old bolt, let the oil drain, and re-tap the thread. Oh, bring your own oil.
This shouldn't be a difficult task for even an average mechanic.
By the way, where are you in LA?
Bob
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Originally posted by Bob_98SR5
Payne,
It sounds like you might be uncomfy doing this by yourself so:
Payne,
It sounds like you might be uncomfy doing this by yourself so:
I would first go to your local gas station, explain the problem, and ask if they can re-tap it for you. If so, I'd let them do the whole thing. They'll use an impact rachet to remove your old bolt, let the oil drain, and re-tap the thread. Oh, bring your own oil.
This shouldn't be a difficult task for even an average mechanic.
By the way, where are you in LA?
Bob
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Try to get a pair if wire cutters ("dikes") in behind the bolt while truning it counter clock wise..
If all else fails, remove to oil pan and bring it to a garage, they can fix the oil pan.. You need to get that out first and either re-tap it, or use a jiffy lube expansion plug.. I second taking it to Jiffy lube (hee hee.. maybe just go in for an oil change at the place who always does your truck.. "What??!! What are you talking about.. you guys do all my oil changes.." ) But I didn't say that.. that would be wrong...
If all else fails, remove to oil pan and bring it to a garage, they can fix the oil pan.. You need to get that out first and either re-tap it, or use a jiffy lube expansion plug.. I second taking it to Jiffy lube (hee hee.. maybe just go in for an oil change at the place who always does your truck.. "What??!! What are you talking about.. you guys do all my oil changes.." ) But I didn't say that.. that would be wrong...
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Originally posted by payneinthe
I just looked them up and they don't seem to list parts for 4Runners. Anyone have an idea how much a new oil pan runs?
Btw, the vehicle in question is a 98 2wd 4Runner (4cyl, auto).
I just looked them up and they don't seem to list parts for 4Runners. Anyone have an idea how much a new oil pan runs?
Btw, the vehicle in question is a 98 2wd 4Runner (4cyl, auto).
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Here is 2 yards in Cali that have them..
Sierra Recycling (800) 346-8773 in Ridgecrest $75 Stock # MG0026
Express Dismantling (909) 356-5050 Call for price Stock # JB132
Both those yards should be able to ship and maybe deal on the price for you...
Sierra Recycling (800) 346-8773 in Ridgecrest $75 Stock # MG0026
Express Dismantling (909) 356-5050 Call for price Stock # JB132
Both those yards should be able to ship and maybe deal on the price for you...
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Originally posted by Victor
You can buy a tap and die kit at a place that sells bolts. Or just buy the correct size tap. Chances are when the bolt is out you can run the tap in there and get the new bolt to work. Also you could go ond tap size larger (15mm?) and then get a great fit but you'll have to get a drain bolt that fits.
You can buy a tap and die kit at a place that sells bolts. Or just buy the correct size tap. Chances are when the bolt is out you can run the tap in there and get the new bolt to work. Also you could go ond tap size larger (15mm?) and then get a great fit but you'll have to get a drain bolt that fits.
Also, compare the price for a used one and a new one. if they are close it sure would be nice to have a new one.
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maybe youll be lucky and it just be the bolt. when i bought my used honda, the bolt on the oil pan was stripped the same way. little oil leak, but when i got the bolt out, the threads on the pan were not stripped. good luck.