Rough Idle, Check Engione Light
#43
Registered User
Where are you? do you have a compression tester? I am thinking this is the next step do a compression test. did you ever try those plugs I suggested? if it is the valves a compression test will let you know if it is cyl/valve related. could possibly be injectors but do a compression test and post results.
Where are you???
did you ever swap the coils and see if the misfire moved??? if not try this could very well be that coil...
Where are you???
did you ever swap the coils and see if the misfire moved??? if not try this could very well be that coil...
Last edited by eddieleephd; 10-13-2009 at 10:20 AM.
#44
I am in Denver/Boulder, CO. I got a buddy with a compression tester and that will be the next test. Haven't tried the plugs yet, but maybe I'll do that before anything. I'm just sick of dropping money when I don't know what the problem is. I've put about $400 worth of parts and more in time into the truck and it hasn't changed a thing, kind of frustrating. I'm actually considering just taking it to the dealer and having them run a full diagnosis on it for $100 or so.
I took it to my mechanic and they said it was probably a coil, therefore I got one from Toyota and installed it...no difference. It was the #1,#4 coil. So, the coil wasn't the problem.
I took it to my mechanic and they said it was probably a coil, therefore I got one from Toyota and installed it...no difference. It was the #1,#4 coil. So, the coil wasn't the problem.
#45
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: valdosta ga
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wow this sounds alot like the problem i had with my 3.4 a while back it idled rough and didnt do well cold but when it warmed up it was drivable.sounded like a popcorn popper lol. i had the 306 code i think for the love of all that is good i couldnt figure that ou i changed plugs coils cleaned maf changed fuel filter ran injector cleaner. then thought.. i wonder if it is getting gas from the injector HA if was fouled out i bought a new one changed it been running great ever since. hope this helpful
#47
mastertech1, I haven't had a chance to check the compression yet, but it is next on my list. Life has been busy lately. How would I check pulse width at home? I work on my own truck, but not a master mechanic by any means.
#48
u need a noid light to check pulse width, they make diffrent kinds one that is specfic for ur truck, but i would recommend getting the universal one its cheaper i got mine from matco but im pretty sure u can find it cheaper on the net.
ur friend with the compression gauge does he have a air compressor? if so tell him to take schader valve out the compression gauges hose then srew the hose into the head, next hook air to the hose with valves closed on cylinder checking this is called a poor mans cylinder leak down test, i like to take the valve cover off to make sure the valves are closed to listen for air leaks past valves
do u have a multimeter?
i didnt mean to be rude but if ur going to work on ur own truck u need tools
ur friend with the compression gauge does he have a air compressor? if so tell him to take schader valve out the compression gauges hose then srew the hose into the head, next hook air to the hose with valves closed on cylinder checking this is called a poor mans cylinder leak down test, i like to take the valve cover off to make sure the valves are closed to listen for air leaks past valves
do u have a multimeter?
i didnt mean to be rude but if ur going to work on ur own truck u need tools
#49
Got it. I'm leaving for a trip tomorrow, so no truck work for a while. I've got a compressor. No apology needed. I usually get the tools when I need them for specific problems. That's how I build the collection. I do have a multimeter. Thanks for the input and I'll get to all of this when I get back. Thanks again
#50
Alright, I know everyone has been dying with anticipation. Finally got sick of dumping money and parts into the thing with no results. Took it to Toyota for diagnostic service. Cylinders #1 and 4 were at 80 psi and #2 and #3 were at 140 psi. They think it is the intake valve in #1 and the exhaust in #4. Looks like it would be $1000 minimum to fix if there weren't any other problems. If there were other problems, I'd be looking at a new engine or rebuild. Any ideas? I'm almost thinking of selling it and getting another used one. Bad day.
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