post install lift questions/problems
#21
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does anyone else know why maybe my front strut has that gap?? did i not compress the spring enough? i know i didnt go to tight on the top nut there is about 4-5 threads showing? ...when i compressed the coil i could just barely get the top nut on with the bushing and washer in place...i kinked them up a little more allowing the nut to thread then i just cranked down the nut and loosed it a little bit...am i wrong on doing it this way?
you need to compress the spring more when doing it. this was my problem. probably why i failed to place the lower bushing on. i may fix mine this up coming weekend so i can start going offroad again and not worrying about it. im also going to build myself a camera mount for my surco this weekend!
how much of a space is between the bushing and the top plate? if those threads are say 16tpi, then 4 threads showing would be a quarter inch that you could take up between the bushing and top plate.
#22
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there almost 1/2" space between the bushing and top plate.i guess ill take it apart again and re-assemble her...im trying to get some energy suspension bushings locally so im going to put them on as well.
i put 200 miles on the truck today...with the stock tires on i can tell a nice difference in the suspension..dont get me wrong its stiff but i like that feeling..i have noticed it has been getting better as the springs start to settle...i plan on taking on some trails tuesday and im sure it will get even better..i will have to add a 1" body lift to get rid of some clearance problems with the 285's when i get them back on. i have already pounded in the pinch weld.
i put 200 miles on the truck today...with the stock tires on i can tell a nice difference in the suspension..dont get me wrong its stiff but i like that feeling..i have noticed it has been getting better as the springs start to settle...i plan on taking on some trails tuesday and im sure it will get even better..i will have to add a 1" body lift to get rid of some clearance problems with the 285's when i get them back on. i have already pounded in the pinch weld.
#24
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well just wanna say thanks to all that helped....
hose clamps om the cv boots worked perfectly.
i took the coils to get sqooshed down a little more and now there is no gap, and i tell you the truck drives awsome now. i also did get an energy suspensoin sway bar bushing kit, the universal one that has 8 bushings i tell you the best 10 bucks i ever spend..maid a big difference in the way the truck rides now..plus my old rubber ones where shot
hose clamps om the cv boots worked perfectly.
i took the coils to get sqooshed down a little more and now there is no gap, and i tell you the truck drives awsome now. i also did get an energy suspensoin sway bar bushing kit, the universal one that has 8 bushings i tell you the best 10 bucks i ever spend..maid a big difference in the way the truck rides now..plus my old rubber ones where shot
#25
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Hey ive been looking at this lift kit too for my 97 SR5 and i have a couple questions.
1. How much do new hose clamps cost?
2. What size rim did you end up going with did you use the 4.5" bs?
3. Could we some more pics?
Thanks for the help
1. How much do new hose clamps cost?
2. What size rim did you end up going with did you use the 4.5" bs?
3. Could we some more pics?
Thanks for the help
#26
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1, hose clamps are cheep, under a dollar a piece...
2, i went with 16x8 with a 4.5 bs. they barely clear my calipers, but they work...
3, theres a ton in the link in my sig, dont wanna post pics up because theres so many and they are huge!!!
2, i went with 16x8 with a 4.5 bs. they barely clear my calipers, but they work...
3, theres a ton in the link in my sig, dont wanna post pics up because theres so many and they are huge!!!
#28
I agree with everyone else that you need to compress those springs some more and get that bushing up to the top plate. The strut is what limits how tall that spring ends up being.
I could be completely wrong on this but the way I see it if you didn't compress the springs enough then you can't tighten down that strut. If you have a 1/2" gap then I think you should be able to tighten down that nut 1/2" more. You are effectively making the strut a half inch longer, making the spring sit 1/2" taller, which If I am thinking about this correctly will give you 1" more lift that you should be getting.
It's hard to explain but I think you are sitting an inch higher in the front than you should be, which could also explain your CV grease leaking.
Does that make sense or am I just sleep deprived.
I could be completely wrong on this but the way I see it if you didn't compress the springs enough then you can't tighten down that strut. If you have a 1/2" gap then I think you should be able to tighten down that nut 1/2" more. You are effectively making the strut a half inch longer, making the spring sit 1/2" taller, which If I am thinking about this correctly will give you 1" more lift that you should be getting.
It's hard to explain but I think you are sitting an inch higher in the front than you should be, which could also explain your CV grease leaking.
Does that make sense or am I just sleep deprived.
#29
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NOPE! thats exactly what happend...but my cv clamps where definetly loose. i was sitting a tad higher than normal. my 285's only rubbed in reverse...but i got the 1" roger brown lift on its way!
#30
Yea, I am going to get a 2" 4Crawler lift. I just put some used 285 Nittos on a set of FJ80 wheels and I am running the OME kit all the way around. I only had rubbing on the left hand side. Apparently I am still carrying some holiday weight.
#32
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