beaujsparks

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/
OK this sounds like my problem. I may start here. Thanks ThatGuy1295

Arty2111

beaujsparks, I had that same issue. I actually bought a spring to help pull the clutch pedal up the remainder of the way. I'm not sure exactly what caused the pedal to stop halfway up, but it happened after I put in a new slave cylinder and master cylinder. I may not have bled the hydraulic line completely.

You may want to try bleeding the line. I did that and it eventually went away, although Im unsure if it was for that reason.

beaujsparks

Thanks Arty2111. I actually FIXED the problem though! I pulled of the bottom of the dash and started looking around. Where the clutch arm attaches to hydraulic arm theres a small bolt and a small gusset. I took these out and the gusset was worn down completely. I should have taken pictures. I took a small piece of PVC and carved the inside out a small amount and re assembled everything. Clutch feels like its brand new. Comes fully out and is factory stiff. The original gusset was metal, but if this goes out again i'll manufacture a new one. Feels good for the time being.

mldave

A new problem.New clutch kit installed 2 months ago,now it shifts like butter one moment and the next moment notchy or hard to put into first,Reverse mostly grinds like hell.New MC and slave and MT-90.No leaks.3rd to 5th shift smooth.Clutch bracket looks good.Any thoughts??

Texas_Ace

Bleed the clutch again? It can be a royal pain to get it fully bled on some cars. Vacuum bleeder is a must IMO.

j2the-e

If reverse is grinding, you most likely have something causing the input shaft on the trans to continue spinning after you push in the clutch. Reverse gear does not have a synchro. Could be anything hydraulic, could be the pedal and/or bracket, could be an oil soaked disc, could be a seizing pilot bearing. If you rule out the hydraulics and pedal/bracket, pull the trans back out and inspect everything.