skjos

aa1911's bolt looks like the one I installed.
I updated the write-up to show the different crankbolt pulley bolt for the earlier models.

spokane.yota.man

Thanks for posting that pic. So the earlier ones have the washer built into the bolt. It's a good thing this was clarified, might save someone the hassle. Even though I'm guessing either one would work, but I wouldn't take that chance.

mt_goat

I wonder if the newer bolt is also a higher grade to handle the new higher torque spec. The pics don't clearly show the head stamp.

TheDurk

Or it may be that bad things happen when the fixed washer was torqued to a higher value so they had to redesign the bolt. The interesting question is whether the older models might be better served with the newer bolt and torque spec if everything else is the same. And whether Toyota did not obsolete the old bolt because of legal concerns (class action leading to recall, or just liability for loose harmonic balancer incidents.) Alas, these fall into the category of questions that will probably never be answered.

mt_goat

I'm used to that

mattbatson

excellent job and thanks for taking the time and effort out of your day/week to do this for others

I relied heavily on a similar write up from another forum for when I did my first timing belt a couple months back...and it is a godsend to newbies...trust me

spokane.yota.man

I wondered the same thing. I did check on toyotapartszone.com and it lists the two seperate bolts for the different years. Usually when a newer part will work in place of an older one it replaces the old part number. It shows the old part but then gets noted as being replaced by the new number. It doesn't show that for the bolt. Doesn't necessarily mean it won't work though. I might swing by the dealer to see if I can get the newer bolt to compare.

skjos

More updates made...

I added the orientation of the thermostat jiggle valve to step 27.

I was unaware that this was supposed to be aligned at a specific orientation, until I perused through another write-up. The write-up said it was supposed to be at 12 o'clock, but the 2002 service manual says it should be downward (at 6 o'clock). Which should it be? (I put the service manual orientation into my write-up).

I have read that the purpose of the jiggle valve is to let air escape during filling, which would mean 12 o'clock would be best, but I have also read that the position did impact engine cooling.

From: http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru.../t-62961.html?
<i>"Over the weekend, I flipped the thermostat in my 2002 3.4L 4runner so the "jiggle valve" was at 6 o-clock instead of 12 o-clock as it had been. The FSM for the 4runner states it should be at 6 o-clock, so maybe it's different from the Tundras?

My temps went from 202-206 (jiggle valve at 12) down to 190-193 (jiggle valve at 6). This is a 180 degree thermostat. I'm happy now I guess.”</i>

I have no idea how mine is orientated, but my scan gauge is still reading 190-193 like always. I don’t think I’ll mess with it until my next flush, unless I see the temps climb beyond 193.

mt_goat

That is interesting...

J2F42C

Skjos,

I am as perplexed as Dale is on that one.

I believe that RWOregon after his TB/H20 pump change was running temps that high until he changed out his tensioner (did not do it the first time) and it brought down his coolant temps to 188~191, I think. Maybe he will check back in.

Also, the oil dipstick o-ring part# is not the one you have listed (that o-ring is for the ATF dipstick I think) but instead is #96741-19005. Cost is ~$2.50.

I will use your DIY in about a month to change my TB/H20 pump and will post the results.

rworegon

I'm running jiggle valve down per 95 Tacoma FSM and run 190-193 degree temps around town and on the road via the ScanGauge.

Temps were 203-206 before the TB, WP, tensioner etc. that were done at the same time. My waterpump pulley and one idler pulley had a lot of burned rubber on them. The tensioner I was able to retract by hand pushing on the workbench, so I chalked the higher temps up to a weak tensioner allowing the belt to slop and not drive the water pump efficiently.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/.../ther/inst.pdf

skjos

I think the 96741-19005 is the o-ring for the dipstick, the 96721-19010 is the o-ring for the bottom of the dipstick tube.

See the diagram here:
http://www.villagetoyotaparts.com/sh...=0&modelYear=0

Let me know how your TB/WP goes, so I can tweak the write-up if necessary.

J2F42C

Skjos,

You are correct.

I'll chalk up my ignorance to the flu medicine I am taking at the moment.

Cheers,

skjos

I couldn't find my own write-up... need to tag it with a few more keywords:
timing belt replace replacement writeup waterpump water instructions new install installation how to thermostat drive belts parts

Mods delete post if this isn't cool.

98SR54RUNNER

iTrader: (1)

Since this seems to be THE writeup thread on the timing belt, I figure these FSM docs should be here:

REMOVAL:
https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...lt-removal.pdf

INSTALLATION:
https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...stallation.pdf

INSPECTION:
https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...inspection.pdf

awdjunkies

Awesome thread all together...

edgar62902

bumping an old thread,just went to the dealership for a quote on timing belt job,they quote me $800 for timing belt,water pump,thermostat,seals and driving belts.not sure if idlers and tensioner included in this price maybe not but i would want them replaced too.i want you guys opinion.i can get a kit from ebay for $350 and have a local mechanic install it but haven't get a quote for labor yet to compare. does $800 sounds right? i just don't want to get ripped off or should i get the kit and hope to get charged for labor around $450 or less? dealership told me 4.5 to 5 hours labor

rworegon

^^Yes, price is about right for a dealer.

mynameistommy510

X2 sounds reasonable for a dealer price.

edgar62902

ok thanks,i think i will go with the dealer then