How can i get more juice out of my engine?
05-09-2005, 01:57 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by jimabena74
there are no cheap ways to get significant power upgrades..... the mod chip and the electric supercharger are FAKE! they are not any good, they do not give promised power results... either cccp is a total moron, or this thread is a spoof... come on, can people really be that stupid?
http://www.electricsupercharger.com/dyno.shtml
now is 300 bux worth 10 rwhp.... and before anyone starts, a 57amp draw is not that big of a deal.
Do the ECT mod after you've loosened up the intake and exhaust. 2.25" exhaust with a free flowing cat and muff, and the isr mod for the intake. (or FIPK - it makes a difference on the 3vze but not the 5vzfe) Then you have the ford taurus electric fan mod, and the jacobs ignition and maybe headers. That's it for bolt ons.
If you want more from nitrous or forced induction you should rebuild the block and heads from the ground up for that task.
Originally Posted by reggiegrip
where do you get turbo's for the 3.0L?
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 05-09-2005 at 02:00 PM.
05-09-2005, 03:42 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by jimabena74
this thread is a spoof... come on, can people really be that stupid?
05-09-2005, 03:52 PM
#24
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ECT stands for engine coolant temperature.
Basically there is a sensor that keeps track of your coolant's temp. As the temperature rises this thermistor's resistance drops. The ECU reads this to determine when the engine is at operational temperature.
The basis of this mod is when your truck is cold, it usually is very peppy - more than it ever is post-warm up. This is a byproduct of the engine running a bit rich and the timing being advanced a bit more to get the truck up to 192*F (operational temp.)
Doing the ECT mod is basically placing a potentiometer inline between the thermistor and the ECU to fool the ECU into thinking the truck is still cold, thereby increasing fuel trims and timing advance. However you need to loosen up the intake and the exhuast for this mod to be worthwhile as the engine will need more air to go with the slightly higher fuel trims.
Drawbacks are that you can run quite rich and loose mpg and if you put too much resistance inline the engine will flood and bog...
Do a search, there is an absolutely HUGE thread about the ECT mod.
Basically there is a sensor that keeps track of your coolant's temp. As the temperature rises this thermistor's resistance drops. The ECU reads this to determine when the engine is at operational temperature.
The basis of this mod is when your truck is cold, it usually is very peppy - more than it ever is post-warm up. This is a byproduct of the engine running a bit rich and the timing being advanced a bit more to get the truck up to 192*F (operational temp.)
Doing the ECT mod is basically placing a potentiometer inline between the thermistor and the ECU to fool the ECU into thinking the truck is still cold, thereby increasing fuel trims and timing advance. However you need to loosen up the intake and the exhuast for this mod to be worthwhile as the engine will need more air to go with the slightly higher fuel trims.
Drawbacks are that you can run quite rich and loose mpg and if you put too much resistance inline the engine will flood and bog...
Do a search, there is an absolutely HUGE thread about the ECT mod.
05-09-2005, 03:59 PM
#25
Registered User
Originally Posted by jimabena74
ok, what i said earleir must be true..... if it isn't... well... than i award SIGNs to msot of the members that posted here... here is you sign......
Most of those "here's your sign" jokes I can easily poke holes through due to that comedian's short sightedness and narrow viewpoint... Though playing dumb and going along with his humor is fun.
Perhaps the thread is a spoof, but if so, why let it be useless? Why not put some good info into it so it's not a complete waste of bandwith?
Last edited by Bumpin' Yota; 05-09-2005 at 04:01 PM.
05-09-2005, 04:03 PM
#26
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Originally Posted by Bumpin' Yota
Perhaps the thread is a spoof, but if so, why let it be useless? Why not put some good info into it so it's not a complete waste of bandwith?
05-09-2005, 04:23 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by jimabena74
i agree, thats why i posted what i did, so the newbies arent bombarded with a crapload of garbage info from people that should know better....
05-09-2005, 06:28 PM
#29
did you weld the copper couplings to the steel pipe? can those two metal be fused together anyway? I'm going to eventually do this mod but am trying to gather as much information as possible before doing so. Also, I noticed that you completely capped off the air conditioning hose? any problems with that? thanks in advance.
05-10-2005, 02:06 AM
#30
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I used all steel pipe couplers cut in half and welded them on. I used bronze thread in barbs for the tubing. I still have AC, the hose I completly blocked off is the air injection thing that add air to your exhaust after the heads. Its quiet usless from a mechanical stand point I think toyota used it to trick emissions into thinking the truck is leaner than it really is by adding fresh air into the exhaust system.
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