whambamthankyoumaam

Hey guys, long time lurker, first time poster.
Bottom line up front: Looking for info on how to determine if my driver side switch control unit is bad or if a wire snapped in the door harness.

I had intermittent problems with my driver window, and earlier this summer the window stopped working. Thankfully it stopped working while in the fully "up" position.

The switch seemed fine, so I replaced the regulator and motor. But that didn't fix anything; motor never runs when I operator the switch. This is where my hour long quick fix turned into a curse-filled evening.

I took the switch board out, turned on the vehicle, and confirmed that i'm getting +/- 12V on the rheostat (?) for both the driver and passenger switches. Yes, I tested this before I ordered the new motor, so this was a sanity check.

Where I'm at: I seem to have one of two problems:

1. The switch control board is bad (and if this is the case, I'm not sure what further checks I can do to verify this other than ponying up cash for a replacement)
2. A wire is broken in the harness going from the door to the kick panel. How the heck do I easily check that without creating more problems?

I'd be very grateful for any tips or suggestions in troubleshooting the switch. I've love to do a continuity check, but have no idea which pins on the harness to test.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Might be better if you stated just what your working on.

TheDurk

Here is the wiring diagram. Go through the tests in the first two parts of the "Service Hints" and report back. If you need more help on how to do this, just ask. I had one we traced to a defect in the wires from driver's door to body--they get old with 15+ years of flexing.

BTW, I don't think there is a rheostat in this circuit anywhere.


https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...rrrr-031pw.pdf

whambamthankyoumaam

Thanks for the help, TheDurk. That schematic didn't give me enough detail, but I did get my hands on a service manual, and looked at pages 1470-1475 (Body Electrical System - Power Window Control System). From there, it looks like I should be able to at least run power directly to the motor.

Where are the terminals on the window motor? I've got the old motor in front of me, but no matter how I look at it, I don't see any shape that matches up with picture N13979. If I could at least operator the motor by running a jumper from a 12volt battery, I could attach the window tot he regulator and put the window back up into the up position. That will at least let me leave my car out in the rain until I have time to do more troubleshooting.

Should I just run +12v to either pin connected to the red wire and green wire? From the picture in my first post, you can see that I already have the motor and regulator installed, but the window is not attached yet. I need to raise the regulator by operating the motor, so I'm looking to run the motor directly to buy me some time.

crazypaint

Find the 2 ends in the plug itself and use a drill battery with 2 wires touch um if it goes up and down from there your switch is bad

TheDurk

I can't match your references because the page numbers are useless unless we are looking at the same year. Use page numbers like BE-69 for me to follow you. I don't see any red wire and the only green wire is in the rear.

Doesn't your regulator look like this?



That plug that goes to the master switch should have five wires. Two will be Light Green and Blue/Yellow on Terminals 1 and 2. I'd link you to the pin-out diagram, but the site is down right now. You shouldn't need it with only five wires. Just look at the wire colors. So apply 12V+ to one of those and negative to the other from a battery or other source. (I use an old 10A 12V charger for testing this stuff). If it goes the wrong direction, reverse the two wires. Be aware the limit switches are not operational in this set-up so it will run until it breaks something if you don't stop the current in time.

EDIT: Site is back. That plug pin-out is P8 on the motor end and P7 on the switch end, both on Page K of the attached.

I can also report that 12V+ on Terminal 1 Light green and negative on T2 Blue/Yellow goes down and the reverse goes up.

whambamthankyoumaam

Hey guys, I would have responded sooner but have been working like a slave. Crazypaint, nice tip, I didn't go that route but will do that if I need to do something like this again in the future.

Durk, those attachments are super helpful. I was able to use some jumper cables and romex wire i had laying around to run the new motor and put the window up.

The FSM says that you can test the motor by applying voltage directly to the motor terminals, but that's not really possible once the motor is inside the door. So instead, I cut up some slivers of cardboard to insert between the pins on the motor's wiring harness, then used two of the copper wires from the romex to apply power to the two pins for power.

My next step is to use that connector pdf and the FSM troubleshooting section for power windows to check for continuity. If I could find a spare 10 minutes I could get that done. Some weeks are better than others.

I'm all but certain that my problem is a faulty wire in the door/body grommet (or whatever you call that rubber protector that covers the wiriing harness going from door to body). Is that all 20 gauge wire for the window/switch/motore wires? Looks pretty thin. Getting the wire through the door to the inside of the vehicle looks like it'll be a chore!