aa1911

iTrader: (1)

^^nice..... yeah, a lot of folks use the starter bump method, seems to work fine.

I'm getting occasional smoke (just a few seconds) and then gone, cannot pinpoint where it's coming from but seems to have gone away, hoping it was just some penetrating oil. there was some knock sensor wiring touching the coolant passage in front of the t-stat but it was like that before (don't know how it didn't fry) but moved it on the other side of the dipstick so it's not contacting anything now. ran it today again and topped off the radiator with some more water, headed to Toyota today to buy some coolant.... then tomorrow, if it holds up, it will be my ride to the Cascades for some elk hunting!

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

AA, I'm so stoked for ya! I know about not being able to go on trips because of issues. Well, in your case, it looks like it's an issue of wanting to take a particular truck, lol. I missed almost every summer trip because of, well, basically, "a machinists negligence"... and when I tucked it all away and got to go to the Sierras? DANGGGGGGGGG, I was so stoked! lol.

Hope you have lots of fun hunting, bud. Be safe and "DROP SOME HORNS", as my pops says.

Again, GOOD JOB!

Mark

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

ok, found another problem, I think possibly the cause of my wierd idle also; my AC unit pulley stops turning and bogs the engine down at idle. at first I thought the belt was too loose or too tight, tried a bunch of different tensions but same problem no matter what. the belt stops turning when the AC pulley/clutch stops and that is what I think is causing the random smoke.

here's the crappy part. after doing all this work myself, it looks like I might have to take it to a shop to service the AC, the chilton warns of 'injury and death' and has absolutely nothing. I am wondering if it would be possible to service just the clutch/pulley without depressurizing the AC unit itself. time to start searching here on yotatech.....

any input on the AC unit would be appreciated!

I feel a lot better though now that I think I know what the wierd idle problem was.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

thanks chef, yeah, it looks like I will have to take my runner hunting anyway even though I could run the truck without AC but I'm not risking that.

aa1911

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AC clutch for the 3.4 is $185, yeah..... the compressor itself is $342...... looks like this might be another expensive endevour....

the good thing is that I think I have solved my idle problem which I thought was due to the tune but the real thing that makes me happy is the fact that I have to date spent well under $1000 in repair of a 11 year old vehicle! not bad, can't really complain. the AC has never been serviced and it runs AWESOME, cold as can be. (I run it all the time also, I'm a freakin' eskimo, hate the heat.) I even run it periodically in winter also.

I guess my only question now is how much needs to actually be replaced, can I do just the clutch or should I replace the entire system? I'm only looking to get another 50-60k out of this engine as it sits and then it is getting rebuilt/overhauled anyway.

thanks guys, gladly take any input

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

holy crap dude, toyota long life coolant is now almost $30/gal!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

what the crap!? bought 2 gallons today, paid $57, jeeez. they also want $56 for a timing belt tensioner, and they have to order it from Portland.... toyotapartscheap has them for $34. Toyota also wanted $2.50 for a stupid O-ring for the bottom oil dipstick tube... dude, I bought a 250pc pack of them for $4, what gives?

anyway, will have to do some more homework on the AC compressor, that will have to get taken care of, if anyone has any words of wisdom about that clutch/refrigerant please chime in.

off to grease the zerks on the 4runner and see if I can pull the fill plug on the rear diff, pretty sure it's never been changed. couldn't get the fill plug out to save my life when I was replacing all the fluids front to back a few months ago, plug is boogered up bad but have a new one.

mattches

I thought that your AC was part of this, way back when you started the post. I am glad to hear that the key didn't shear, but the pulley took the toll. Thanks for all the pics. You did a good job.
As far as your AC is concerned, if your compressor is locked up enough to stall the belt, then just replacing the clutch is throwing money away. You will have to replace the compressor. Which in turn means you have to replace the accumulator, and possibly the expansion valve too, hopefully not the condenser. You should flush the system and don't forget the cost of r-134 and possibly compressor oil, if the replacement compressor is not filled already. You will need a vacuum pump and gauges as well. It is not for the faint of heart, but you CAN do it. If you don't have a vacuum pump and gauges, then a local auto shop can do that part, and you can save money on replacing the compressor yourself. The biggest thing you have to remember is that the systems has to stay CLEAN inside. You have to replace all those parts, because when your compressor locks up there is a huge possibility that chunks of metal get shot into the system, which clog up the microscopic orifices. But, you said that when it does work it is cold, right? So you still have a good chance that you could get away with just replacing the compressor and accumulator, then pulling a vacuum and recharging. Maybe your compressor is just starting to die. Either way, I would disconnect your AC compressor NOW, until you can start the job.
I have used techchoiceparts.com in the past for AC stuff, they are a direct manufacturer, and are almost half as much as anywhere else.

TheDurk

Next time.....http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...antifreeze/105



This a premixed silicate-free phosphated HOAT coolant. Same as Toyota pink. Going in mine next time I need coolant. Oh yeah, $11 NAPA and Amazon, for 1 gallon.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys, that was what I was looking for... it IS still cold as can be, just like the day I bought it.

Glad to see someone makes an equivalent coolant, thanks Durk. I was going to start shopping around tonight after that $57 whack at the Toyota counter to find an alternative, the price is ridiculous. It was only $20 about 6 months ago when I did my coolant system the last time.

I think I will buy the parts and have a shop do the work on the AC, I don't have much desire to mess with it and the refrigerant. Don't have a solid decision yet though, I need to dig and do some more reading/searching before I figure out exactly what I need to buy and how much I'm willing to do myself.

Another question: I know it will run without it, but is running the truck without the belt/AC unit turning a good idea even short term? I don't know if this would throw any sort of balance off at all or not; that belt only runs the AC and I certainly don't need it right now anyway but kinda leery about running it sans belt. or is there a way to disable the clutch to have it 'freewheel' so it's not turning anything other than the pulley (the clutch's original job, lol)

thanks fellas!

mattches

I don't blame you for wanting to take it to a shop, but I really think that you could do it yourself, at least replacing the compressor part. If you have any questions on it, please ask. I have done it to a few cars now.
As far as the AC, you can simply disconnect the lead wire going to it, which powers the clutch. You will find it has a connector coming up somewhere behind the power steering pump. Just disconnect that, and the clutch cannot engage.
Oh, yeah, I forgot, here is a link for a new compressor. $159
http://techchoiceparts.com/ShowItem/...ompressor.aspx

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

thanks mattches, sorry it's been a few days, been elk hunting... I didn't realize that wire would do it, I will disconnect that and see what she does.

thanks for the link also, that's a lot better than Toyota! ($$$)

My plan is to buy a compressor, accumulator and have a shop do the refrigerant part. I'm thinking about tearing it down in their parking lot, pushing it into the bay to discharge the AC, and when they're done, roll it back out and wrench it back together then back in to recharge the system. Not sure if that will be feasible, maybe they will cut me a deal and do the labor for cheap to keep me out of their hair.... hahaha...

Is there anything else I need to check/replace on this AC system? the hoses are in good shape and the condenser/radiator is perfect at least on the outside.

Thanks!

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

yup, that seemed to do the trick.

now another problem..... so it looks like it's been going on slowly for a while, now it's much faster; the valve covers are leaking oil from the gaskets and onto the manifold, the cause of my random smoking. there's been gunk/residue on there for a long time but it seems to be dripping out now, no bueno...

anyway, she runs so that's a good start...

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

the bolts were not loose but they weren't all that tight either, I could easily turn all of them almost a quarter turn. need to wipe it all down clean and tighten the remaining bolts that I can't see (it just got dark) and see if she still leaks. if so, I guess the intake/SC is coming off and I will be buying some new gaskets for the top end! hooray....

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Dang, if it's not one thing it's another, eh AA? lol. Hope that fixes it, ...but if not, at least YOU can do it and save CAJILLIONS OF DOLLARES! lol.

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

^^yes, no doubt. I was reading another thread on valve covers/gaskets/leaks and some shops wanted up to $600 to do the work!!! hahahaa get bent you vultures, that's an easy fix! maybe time consuming pulling the SC/intake off but not hard at ALL!

hopefully tightening the bolts will do the trick but I think it will soon be time to replace them anyway.... I just don't have much time right now to do any work on it, 4 more days of elk hunting and then I will have about 5 days to get this thing back on the road for real.

If anyone has any advice on the AC system repair please chime in, as of now, I'm purchasing a compressor unit and and accumulator maybe, the shop will be doing the refrigerant deal, I'm not messing with that part.

seems like my valve cover leak is mostly towards the firewall which seems to be normal from reading a few threads; like I said though, there is years of oil/gunk around the gasket all the way around the lower edge of the covers.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Just do em while you're in there, AA.... IMHO. I know you're slim on time.... but soon, you'll be at the point of "Get in, we're just gonna DRIVE AND DRIVE... AND NOT EVEN LOOK UNDER THE HOOD AT ALL FOR DAYS!!!!!!!!!", lol... That's better than "Hey, why is that guy crawling around on the parking lot asphalt at Babys'r'us?????", like me, haha. Guy asked me, "Is everything ok?" as he got in his Yota... I answered, "DANG IT, I hope so... it better be this time!" with a nervous smile on my face, hahahaha. He looked at me like "Ahhh, ok.... wait, What? ummmm HUH? You hope so?" lol. It was right after doing my timing cover bolts again.

PS> Vultures is right! Funny though... they quoted only a lil over 700$ for a full head gasket job on my truck with a CAM swap. THAT'S an honest shop, eh? hahaha. I was just asking the guy who diagnosed my CAM using the propane, etc., for the heck of it.... he was shooting off some of the prices of things I'd done. WOWWWWWW!

mattches

It seriously is easier than I think you think it is to do. Now, I am not the EPA or anything. But I could not find a shop around here that will properly discharge a system, but this is a tiny town. So I simply crack open a line, there usually is one close to the front of the engine bay. I let it evac and let the shop air out for 15 minutes. So long as it is 134a, it is not supposed to kill the ozone (to bad). When you come back to it, tighten up the line you cracked open. Then change the accumulator, then the compressor. Be sure to put new o-rings moistened in the compressor oil on the compressor high and low pressure lines. The biggest thing to take care of is to be sure to keep the inside of those lines clean, don't accidentally scrape some grime off into them. Better yet, before you start, spray some engine brite to degrease and pressure wash around the compressor.
After you get it all put back together, leave the wire unhooked, and take it to the shop to have it charged. They can pull a vacuum on it to make sure there is not any leaks, and then charge it with r-134a. A good shop should only charge you about $50 for that, assuming you buy your own coolant. But coolant is pretty cheap too, about $10 a can, it takes like 3 cans I think.
Seriously it is easier than you think. Search around online about it. If you have any other questions, let me know!

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

^^ sweet, thanks for the advice... everything I've tackled on my rigs so far has been much easier than I percieved, I'm sure this is the same, just leery about refrigerant from all the "it will KILL you! and the ozone!! death!! don't touch!!!" in all the manuals (and then zero schematics or info. hahaa! (the haynes actually has a little bit in it...)

The compressor is held on with 4 bolts (2 don't clear until you pull the bracket) and then 4 on the bracket itself which has the idler pulley. I've already pulled that to get to the TB tensioner... so that plus the lines (which all have valves/knobs near the firewall), the mechanical part of this should be a snap. time to do some more searching/reading....

thanks!!

Back from my second hunting trip so haven't touched my rig in a few days, if I can tighten up the valve covers so they stop leaking I will do another road test with the AC off to make sure that there isn't something else wrong.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Score anything decent on your huntin trips, AA?

aa1911

iTrader: (1)

I did the 'get in and drive without looking under the hood' for a Loooong time! haha.. . long before my SC/Yotatech days.... this is literally the only thing that has ever left me hangin'... lucky it wasn't far from home. paranoid driving my 4runner way back in the middle of nowhere, but she did me good yet again...

I will clamp down the valve covers (not too much) and see if the bolts will seal her up, if not, guess it's more parts... too much more and I'm buying a new engine and will rebuild this one for my 3.4 swap into the runner, can't have this thing on the fritz much longer.

I laughed when my bill for the exhaust headers was only like $278... (still expensive but.....>>) they were in there for hours cutting out the old and torching the bolts, etc.... I had sprayed PB on there for WEEKS and they wouldn't budge! wouldv'e taken me a freakin' year, totally worth it!!! sometimes you get even....