stangman39

So just use a drill bit and drill thru the head of the screw? I assume go to the dealer for a new sensor?

Thanks,
Mike

MTL_4runner

Yep, just drill far enough that the head of the screw comes off (3/16" or 1/4" bit works well).

You can either get one from the dealer or online from one of these guys:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123/parts-sources-internet-88539/

stangman39

Went to the dealer today and got what I think is the correct MAF sensor/meter. It is part # 22204-07010

They didn't have new screws for mounting it. Does anyone what type of screw I need since one of my is stripped? I may be able to just clean the old sensor once I get it off and can return the new one.

Thanks,
Mike

MTL_4runner

The dealer should have those screws in stock for you (they are a standard metric screw, can't remember size offhand). Definately try cleaning first and drive it for a few days, if no CEL, then return the new MAF.

Godzilla

before drilling through the screw have you tried removing the airbox ( i think its attached to that) and try a stripped screw remover tool on it?

stangman39

Godzilla,
Have not tried that. The head of the screw is stripped....and I don't have one of those tools...yet!

Mike

Godzilla

These things work awesome..On my 92 I had a few screws strip and the stripped tool worked everytime. They arent expensive at all either. Mine was like 15 bucks CDN. IMO they are better to try first then drill out a screw or bolt.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952154000
there are different variations of them but this is an example

fireteacher

take the old one that is still good to ace hardware and put a nut on it. then find a matching screw to work with it. thats what i did. to remove the old one, i bought a drill bit thing that you drill in about 1/4 through the screw (came in the kit) andd it has a reverse drill bit thing to make it spin out the other way (also in the kit) $5 btotal i think it was. just when your finished drilling through the head, DONT use the drill to back the screw out with the reverse-out bit. use a pair of pliars so it dosnt strip out the hole. (made that mistake and had to redrill a bit deeper)

NTH-i have a used MAF i never put on my truck that i bought from ebay. $50 shipped if anyone still wants to buy one.

kcebes

Thats the same code i had. I tried cleaning the MAF and the code still came right back. I got a brand new MAF from the dealer and it was fine. Compare the part numbers from your old one to your new one. Toyota changed the part numbers to a better unit. I still had the old one in my truck and toyota sold me the new one. Been fine ever since.

stangman39

Thanks for all the info everyone.

I went to try to get my emissions done today. In GA you have to have them passed b4 you can get a car registered. I used the OBD scanner to reset the codes figure it would help of the CEL light wasn't on! Well...it failed b/c of "OBD Readiness" I didn't know but I guess you have to drive the car a certain amt of miles after resetting things to have it pass this test! Anyone know how long you have to drive?

I'm still waiting on new screws for the MAF sensor from the dealer. I need to call and see where they are at. I guess I need to fix or replace the sensor b4 going back for emissions again! LOL

Mike

MTL_4runner

That is just to keep people from clearing the OBD code and then driving directly to an inspection (and passing). I think it requires 3 logged trips in the ECU before you can get it inspected and clear the test, but check with the inspection station for actual specifics to your state's inspection process.

stangman39

LOL...kinda like what I did!

The guy at the inspection place said to call the dealer and find out how long I have to drive but he said he figures it is about 100-150miles.

Just got my new screws from the dealer so gonna go out and try to change out the MAF...or maybe clean the old one first.

Mike