Blew My Cv 2 Tim Buck 2
09-01-2004, 06:30 AM
#21
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Okay, so I think I've got this figured out, and what my confusion was about the 3rd gens- whether or not you leave the tulip in. This is a great thread!
09-01-2004, 02:22 PM
#22
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grade 8 bolts?
Originally Posted by Cebby
Something to note... In the pic, my studs have been removed from the stub shafts. If you have the gumption, drive the studs out and either grind the holes so the splines don't catch, or grind the splines off the studs so you can remove them like bolts. This allows you to remove/replace them without much work. 6 bolts at the stub and the bolt on the end of the CV (really easy if you have manual hubs - just remove the dial to get to it) and you can pull it out. With your ADD plates, you need to pull the plates (PIA due to cone washers)
ive been meaning to pm you about that mod. ive talked with my mechanic and asked him about using grade 8 bolts in place of the splined studs. he seems to think they will be fine. i have a couple donor vehicles that will be supplying me with several cv shafts etc, will 1st gen cv shafts fit 2nd gens? do i have to disassemble the entire front diff to press out those studs or can it be done with a socket and c clamp? thanks for any suggestions/advice.
lee
09-01-2004, 03:05 PM
#23
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You could "probably" do it in place with a socket and C-Clamp, but it may give you some frustration 
If you have access to an air hammer with a blunt tip like we used, that will make it go faster for you. One tip I can offer - thread a nut on the end of the open threads so you don't mash them. We figured that out after a couple... :pat:
I don't know about the CV's. It seems they should work, since the width of the rear axle is the same from 86-95. Plus, all the IFS diffs should be the same overall width (doesn't matter if ADD/non ADD), since I replaced my 93 with an 88. I'd check a place that sell replacement CV's and see if the PN's are the same for say an 87, a 90 and a 94.
If you have access to an air hammer with a blunt tip like we used, that will make it go faster for you. One tip I can offer - thread a nut on the end of the open threads so you don't mash them. We figured that out after a couple... :pat:
I don't know about the CV's. It seems they should work, since the width of the rear axle is the same from 86-95. Plus, all the IFS diffs should be the same overall width (doesn't matter if ADD/non ADD), since I replaced my 93 with an 88. I'd check a place that sell replacement CV's and see if the PN's are the same for say an 87, a 90 and a 94.
09-13-2004, 05:24 PM
#24
Originally Posted by Cebby
You could "probably" do it in place with a socket and C-Clamp, but it may give you some frustration
If you have access to an air hammer with a blunt tip like we used, that will make it go faster for you. One tip I can offer - thread a nut on the end of the open threads so you don't mash them. We figured that out after a couple... :pat:
I don't know about the CV's. It seems they should work, since the width of the rear axle is the same from 86-95. Plus, all the IFS diffs should be the same overall width (doesn't matter if ADD/non ADD), since I replaced my 93 with an 88. I'd check a place that sell replacement CV's and see if the PN's are the same for say an 87, a 90 and a 94.
If you have access to an air hammer with a blunt tip like we used, that will make it go faster for you. One tip I can offer - thread a nut on the end of the open threads so you don't mash them. We figured that out after a couple... :pat:
I don't know about the CV's. It seems they should work, since the width of the rear axle is the same from 86-95. Plus, all the IFS diffs should be the same overall width (doesn't matter if ADD/non ADD), since I replaced my 93 with an 88. I'd check a place that sell replacement CV's and see if the PN's are the same for say an 87, a 90 and a 94.
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