Alternator Pullys
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Alternator Pullys
Now that I have the 150amp alt, I seem to be losing (electrical) power at idle. I'll give it gas and the power antenna works faster, the windows work faster, and the lights are significanly brighter. Does anybody know of an overdrive pully for my alternator?
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this is with the HO alernator??? I havent heard of problomes from the alternators. Contact Mr. Alternator and find out why? Because that is in my purchase list, and I want to find out how well it works
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Yeup..this is with my 150 amp.. When I was shopping a long time ago, I remember ExcessiveAmperage including an overdrive pulley to do with their 200amp alt. I'll ask Mr. Alternator......
#4
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I have the same issue with my Mr. A alternator. I _think_ this is normal in that I've noticed it happen in all cars/trucks that I've ever been in.
("most"?) Alternators have two stages of output - one for idle or low RPM, and a higher one for higher RPMs. The upper range on mine kicks in about 1000-1100 RPM.
My OEM alternator did this as well...
("most"?) Alternators have two stages of output - one for idle or low RPM, and a higher one for higher RPMs. The upper range on mine kicks in about 1000-1100 RPM.
My OEM alternator did this as well...
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Ive got the same problem. For a little while it wasn't charging the battery enough with my city driving and had to get two free red-tops (thanks advanced autoparts!) Have you asked them about it? Should we send a joint email or email them seperately? Its annoying to me... it did NOT do this with my stock unit. It only started when I got the bigger alt. I think they need to put smaller pulleys on...
Last edited by turboale; 10-22-2004 at 02:49 PM.
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From what I gather, this isn't normal. My output drop *seems* to be significant. Also, I remember an auto electric shop telling me that it's very difficult to make our alternators product 150amps+, and a smaller pulley IS important.
If somebody wants to setup a "group email", I'm down with that. If not, I'll just send out my own..although, communicating with Mr. Alternator is VERY difficult.
If somebody wants to setup a "group email", I'm down with that. If not, I'll just send out my own..although, communicating with Mr. Alternator is VERY difficult.
#7
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'k... well, if you/we find out from Mr. A that we shouldn't be seeing this, then I'm in on what it takes to get the output consistent.
As for getting ahold of Tom, yeah, I think we talked about this while you were waiting for yours. He can be slow on emails.
For the record:
As for getting ahold of Tom, yeah, I think we talked about this while you were waiting for yours. He can be slow on emails.
For the record:
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I shot him an email explaining the problem, and explained that I know of at least two others with the same concern. Hopefully, he'll get back shortly. Whatever his decision is, I think I'll pursue obtaining the smaller pulley. I'll keep you two posted.
#10
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It is common for higher output alternators to not put out as much current at low RPMs as a lower output alternator, especially if the high output unit is simply a rewound low output unit. Reason being that when they rewind an alternator for more output, you are replacing more turns of a smaller wire with fewer turns of a larger wire in the stator. This does two things for the alternator output. The internal impedance of the alternator is reduced, thus for a given internal voltage, the output current is higher (and alternator can be modeled as an internal variable voltage source with a series resistance). However, since there are fewer windings in the stator, the internal voltage, as a function of RPM, is lower. This is because the rotor spins at the same speed, and thus has the same frequency of magnetic flux changes cutting through the stator windings. The internal voltage induced in the stator is proportional to the frequency of flux changes and the number of windings cut. More windings=more voltage, fewer windings=lower voltage. Putting a smaller alt. pulley on ups the speed of rotation and frequency of the flux changes, so can help boost idle output.
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/mes...threadid=73334
I find my 160A Premier Power Welder (large case) alternator can't quite keep up for night wheeling where there is a lot of stopping/idling, when I have all my lights on (headlights, foglights, rocklights). The control box for the welder has a switch to provide extra charging current (~25% more), I'll have to try that boost switch next time I find the idle output is low, and see how that helps.
http://www.fastcougar.com/forums/mes...threadid=73334
I find my 160A Premier Power Welder (large case) alternator can't quite keep up for night wheeling where there is a lot of stopping/idling, when I have all my lights on (headlights, foglights, rocklights). The control box for the welder has a switch to provide extra charging current (~25% more), I'll have to try that boost switch next time I find the idle output is low, and see how that helps.
Last edited by 4Crawler; 10-23-2004 at 09:08 AM.
#12
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Yeah, what 4crawler said. In addition, a smaller pulley will make the alt spin faster. But it also makes the "contact area" with the belt smaller. This can make the belt slip more (esp at higher output requirements) More power out = more HP needed to turn the alt. You don't want your belt slipping.
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so HO alternators from Mr. Aletenator yeah or nah. I kinda need the high output at lower rpms. I run high output sounds, and need more of the power at idel than at high rpms
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Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
so HO alternators from Mr. Aletenator yeah or nah. I kinda need the high output at lower rpms. I run high output sounds, and need more of the power at idel than at high rpms
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I have the excessive amperage unit and it still only cuts on at around 1000-1200rpm. i wouldnt advise getting a smaller pulley because these units produce more heat than a factory one anyways and I think making it turn even faster wouldnt be good. To remedy my problem I just adjusted my idle to 1000rpm's
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Or leave your idel speed normal and rig up a hand throttle or switchable fast idle setup. I have both on my '85. For the fast idle, I used a VSV to operate the idle-up valve on my 22RE. I can dial in a fast idle speed on up by adjusting the fast idle knob on the valve.
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hey David, where did you get your alternator from? Price? and how well did it fit in? Im pushing somewhere in the neck of 2000 plus watts to my stereo system. So i need a HO alternator for SPL competiton. But in SPL the class I want to go into, you cant really rev your motor to bring up the charge. So I need the higher output at the low rpm. Any brands you can recmomend? Thanks guys
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Originally Posted by Bigkahuna808
hey David, where did you get your alternator from? Price? and how well did it fit in? Im pushing somewhere in the neck of 2000 plus watts to my stereo system. So i need a HO alternator for SPL competiton. But in SPL the class I want to go into, you cant really rev your motor to bring up the charge. So I need the higher output at the low rpm. Any brands you can recmomend? Thanks guys
#19
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another thing that you may want to consider is Alt. RPM, generally the Alt. pulley is about half the size or less of the crank pulley, that would mean at 5,000 RPM engine speed, the Alt is spinning 10,000 RPM, I'm not sure what they build the Alt. to withstand but putting a smaller pulley on might over speed it. Just a thought.......
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Originally Posted by dbikeman
I have the excessive amperage unit and it still only cuts on at around 1000-1200rpm. i wouldnt advise getting a smaller pulley because these units produce more heat than a factory one anyways and I think making it turn even faster wouldnt be good. To remedy my problem I just adjusted my idle to 1000rpm's
Math guys: How much smaller of a pulley would it take to make up for the dip at idle?