Advantage of manual hubs?
11-21-2004, 07:45 AM
#21
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hey ken!
i had the last version available in canada of the mr2. it was the 93 model, black with all the options. sweet ride! i miss that little road rocket, sigh.
lee
i had the last version available in canada of the mr2. it was the 93 model, black with all the options. sweet ride! i miss that little road rocket, sigh.
lee
11-22-2004, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by roger
IIRC, ADD stands for 'Automatic Differential Disengage' or something of that sort. Basically it's like having your hubs locked all the time. The axles are spinning but the transfer case is not engaged, so no 4WD.
BTW, it's OK to drive with your hubs locked but in 2WD. It's essentially the same as having ADD. That way you can just shift it into 4Hi or 4Low without getting out of the truck. This will cause more wear on the front drive components, but so does ADD (one reason why manual hubs are superior in some ways).
BTW, it's OK to drive with your hubs locked but in 2WD. It's essentially the same as having ADD. That way you can just shift it into 4Hi or 4Low without getting out of the truck. This will cause more wear on the front drive components, but so does ADD (one reason why manual hubs are superior in some ways).
With ADD there is an axle disconnect mechanism on one axle, and no hubs - the axles turn all the time. With the one axle disconnected (ADD off) the diff does not turn though. Switch into 4wd and the ADD reconnects that one axle and now it all works. Very simple sytem.
Manual hubs without ADD left locked in for 2wd highway driving is fine, I used to do it all the time so I could shift in and out of 4wd as conditions dictated, but it affects mileage a little and steering a lot. IF you put a traction aid (posi etc) in the front diff, street driving with the hubs locked the steering is terrible!
I'm with Corey - I'm putting on manual hubs but keeping my ADD.
Last edited by Flamedx4; 11-22-2004 at 09:17 AM.
11-22-2004, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Cardiac
Beautiful truck by the way, I just checked it out at the link in your sig.
Thanks. You see, I'm color blind... so we came up with this paint job. Doesn't matter much what color I say it is - I'm right! I'm much happier now...
11-22-2004, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
Thanks. You see, I'm color blind... so we came up with this paint job. Doesn't matter much what color I say it is - I'm right! I'm much happier now...
11-22-2004, 06:34 PM
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say what?? now im confused!
hey phil!
manual hubs AND ADD? i dont understand, why would you use manual hubs with add? i understand how the manual hubs work, i understand how the add systems works but im lost on using the two together. would you be able to explain it to me because i cant seem to get my mind around using them together.
thanks,
lee
manual hubs AND ADD? i dont understand, why would you use manual hubs with add? i understand how the manual hubs work, i understand how the add systems works but im lost on using the two together. would you be able to explain it to me because i cant seem to get my mind around using them together.
thanks,
lee
Originally Posted by Flamedx4
With ADD there is an axle disconnect mechanism on one axle, and no hubs - the axles turn all the time. With the one axle disconnected (ADD off) the diff does not turn though. Switch into 4wd and the ADD reconnects that one axle and now it all works. Very simple sytem.
Manual hubs without ADD left locked in for 2wd highway driving is fine, I used to do it all the time so I could shift in and out of 4wd as conditions dictated, but it affects mileage a little and steering a lot. IF you put a traction aid (posi etc) in the front diff, street driving with the hubs locked the steering is terrible!
I'm with Corey - I'm putting on manual hubs but keeping my ADD.
Manual hubs without ADD left locked in for 2wd highway driving is fine, I used to do it all the time so I could shift in and out of 4wd as conditions dictated, but it affects mileage a little and steering a lot. IF you put a traction aid (posi etc) in the front diff, street driving with the hubs locked the steering is terrible!
I'm with Corey - I'm putting on manual hubs but keeping my ADD.
11-22-2004, 07:10 PM
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The reason I think manual hubs are better (for me) is because they are simple. No vacuum lines or electric connections to consider. It's either free or locked by what I set it to on the dial. I never wonder about it working right.
11-23-2004, 01:12 PM
#27
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With all of the above posts I would think it's been explained to death.
With ADD and no hubs, all ya gotta do is yank the lever and you're in 4wd. Reverse operation to get out of 4wd. Simple. I like it. BUT, as with most people, 90% of my driving is on the highway, and those axles are turning all the time...
So, if I install manual hubs, I can disengage them for the 90% of the time I don't need 4wd. Less wear and tear on the front components, better steering response, better mileage.
So, now winter comes around and we get snow and ice. In patches. So with manual hubs AND ADD I could leave my hubs locked in, but leave it in 2wd, and because I kept the ADD while in 2wd my front diff and front driveshaft are not turning (big drag!) so I get great road manners and can still yank the lever when I want without getting out to lock/unlock the hubs. Same for running trails too. If I remove my ADD, then I either have to lock/unlock the hubs alot, or live with 2wd/hubs locked on dry pavement between ice patches... Perfectly do-able, but it sucks, I know from long experience.
The ADD is not failure prone, so why bother to remove it? Keep it AND manual hubs - Best of both worlds. Kinda. Make sense?
With ADD and no hubs, all ya gotta do is yank the lever and you're in 4wd. Reverse operation to get out of 4wd. Simple. I like it. BUT, as with most people, 90% of my driving is on the highway, and those axles are turning all the time...
So, if I install manual hubs, I can disengage them for the 90% of the time I don't need 4wd. Less wear and tear on the front components, better steering response, better mileage.
So, now winter comes around and we get snow and ice. In patches. So with manual hubs AND ADD I could leave my hubs locked in, but leave it in 2wd, and because I kept the ADD while in 2wd my front diff and front driveshaft are not turning (big drag!) so I get great road manners and can still yank the lever when I want without getting out to lock/unlock the hubs. Same for running trails too. If I remove my ADD, then I either have to lock/unlock the hubs alot, or live with 2wd/hubs locked on dry pavement between ice patches... Perfectly do-able, but it sucks, I know from long experience.
The ADD is not failure prone, so why bother to remove it? Keep it AND manual hubs - Best of both worlds. Kinda. Make sense?
11-23-2004, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by leebee
hey phil!
manual hubs AND ADD? i dont understand, why would you use manual hubs with add? i understand how the manual hubs work, i understand how the add systems works but im lost on using the two together. would you be able to explain it to me because i cant seem to get my mind around using them together.
thanks,
lee
manual hubs AND ADD? i dont understand, why would you use manual hubs with add? i understand how the manual hubs work, i understand how the add systems works but im lost on using the two together. would you be able to explain it to me because i cant seem to get my mind around using them together.
thanks,
lee
, you would do this so you can have pushbutton 4x4 without having your front axles spinning all the time (which occurs with the stock ADD system). Like Flygtenstein said, ADD has nothing to do with your hubs. I think that's how it works anyway........
11-23-2004, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jboy
Too much lift and ADD hubs do not match. Your just looking at replacing cv boots all the time and possibly cv joints. Both are expensive if you can`t do it and a waste of time if you can do the job. Do it once and replace those hubs with MANUAL. 
and what is too much lift?
11-23-2004, 02:13 PM
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hey phil!
thanks for explaining the methodology of keeping the add and manual hubs. i was a bit lost on why, you helped me understand it better. makes perfect sense and yes, you have the best of both setups.
thanks again.
lee
thanks for explaining the methodology of keeping the add and manual hubs. i was a bit lost on why, you helped me understand it better. makes perfect sense and yes, you have the best of both setups.
thanks again.
lee
Originally Posted by Flamedx4
With all of the above posts I would think it's been explained to death.
With ADD and no hubs, all ya gotta do is yank the lever and you're in 4wd. Reverse operation to get out of 4wd. Simple. I like it. BUT, as with most people, 90% of my driving is on the highway, and those axles are turning all the time...
So, if I install manual hubs, I can disengage them for the 90% of the time I don't need 4wd. Less wear and tear on the front components, better steering response, better mileage.
So, now winter comes around and we get snow and ice. In patches. So with manual hubs AND ADD I could leave my hubs locked in, but leave it in 2wd, and because I kept the ADD while in 2wd my front diff and front driveshaft are not turning (big drag!) so I get great road manners and can still yank the lever when I want without getting out to lock/unlock the hubs. Same for running trails too. If I remove my ADD, then I either have to lock/unlock the hubs alot, or live with 2wd/hubs locked on dry pavement between ice patches... Perfectly do-able, but it sucks, I know from long experience.
The ADD is not failure prone, so why bother to remove it? Keep it AND manual hubs - Best of both worlds. Kinda. Make sense?
With ADD and no hubs, all ya gotta do is yank the lever and you're in 4wd. Reverse operation to get out of 4wd. Simple. I like it. BUT, as with most people, 90% of my driving is on the highway, and those axles are turning all the time...
So, if I install manual hubs, I can disengage them for the 90% of the time I don't need 4wd. Less wear and tear on the front components, better steering response, better mileage.
So, now winter comes around and we get snow and ice. In patches. So with manual hubs AND ADD I could leave my hubs locked in, but leave it in 2wd, and because I kept the ADD while in 2wd my front diff and front driveshaft are not turning (big drag!) so I get great road manners and can still yank the lever when I want without getting out to lock/unlock the hubs. Same for running trails too. If I remove my ADD, then I either have to lock/unlock the hubs alot, or live with 2wd/hubs locked on dry pavement between ice patches... Perfectly do-able, but it sucks, I know from long experience.
The ADD is not failure prone, so why bother to remove it? Keep it AND manual hubs - Best of both worlds. Kinda. Make sense?
11-23-2004, 02:50 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by nastynate
wouldn't a diff drop help here?
and what is too much lift?
and what is too much lift?
11-23-2004, 04:13 PM
#32
Originally Posted by Cardiac
Wow, a windfall of replies. You've all convinced me to keep the manual hubs and cope with hopping in and out. I just remember last year when I thought I could get out of the driveway in 2WD, and discovered I couldn't. So I'd hop out and lock the hubs, and drive out in 4WD. Then I'd hop out again and unlock them. I know I could drive with the hubs locked, but I know it affects fuel efficiency, makes for unnecessary wear, and it makes more noise. I'm also a fan of simplicity. I did a brake job on it three weeks ago, and the hub and everything all comes apart easily.
11-23-2004, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Robinhood150
It helps a little. Anything older than tacomas and the 3rd gen 4runners can't use a diff drop like the newer ones can.
i know (i've heard) the ADD CV's are beefier, but how does it improve the angle problem?
Last edited by nastynate; 11-23-2004 at 04:58 PM. Reason: clarify
11-28-2004, 09:07 AM
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hey guys!
just finished up the add to manual hub conversion. i had some difficulty snugging up the bolt and washer on the passenger side cv axle as the axle was free turning. does anyone have the torque specs for these bolts, hub body nuts and cap cover bolts? how deep are the cone washers supposed to seat. thanks for any info you can supply.
lee
just finished up the add to manual hub conversion. i had some difficulty snugging up the bolt and washer on the passenger side cv axle as the axle was free turning. does anyone have the torque specs for these bolts, hub body nuts and cap cover bolts? how deep are the cone washers supposed to seat. thanks for any info you can supply.
lee
11-29-2004, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by roger
If I'm reading this right, and I may not be , you would do this so you can have pushbutton 4x4 without having your front axles spinning all the time (which occurs with the stock ADD system). Like Flygtenstein said, ADD has nothing to do with your hubs.
I think that's how it works anyway........
, you would do this so you can have pushbutton 4x4 without having your front axles spinning all the time (which occurs with the stock ADD system). Like Flygtenstein said, ADD has nothing to do with your hubs. I think that's how it works anyway........
Exactly. So you can have the convenience of pushbutton 4x4 (actually pull lever 4x4) on the fly, and ALSO you can have 2wd without the axles and joints spinning.
11-29-2004, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by nastynate
what's the difference between manual CV's/spindles and ADD CV's/spindles?
i know (i've heard) the ADD CV's are beefier, but how does it improve the angle problem?
i know (i've heard) the ADD CV's are beefier, but how does it improve the angle problem?
The difference is the hubs themselves, and the ADD sleeve inside the stub axle. But the drive axles are the same with either system. The outer end of the shaft either slides into a simple splined flange and so spins all the time, or slides into the manual hub assembly and can be unlocked. Either way the inner end bolts up to the axle housing flanges.
Hubs:
Last edited by Flamedx4; 11-29-2004 at 09:49 AM.
11-29-2004, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Flamedx4
None. Same part number.
The difference is the hubs themselves, and the ADD sleeve inside the stub axle. But the drive axles are the same with either system. The outer end of the shaft either slides into a simple splined flange and so spins all the time, or slides into the manual hub assembly and can be unlocked. Either way the inner end bolts up to the axle housing flanges.
Hubs:
The difference is the hubs themselves, and the ADD sleeve inside the stub axle. But the drive axles are the same with either system. The outer end of the shaft either slides into a simple splined flange and so spins all the time, or slides into the manual hub assembly and can be unlocked. Either way the inner end bolts up to the axle housing flanges.
Hubs:
