3rd Gen starter removal
#1
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3rd Gen starter removal
So I knew it would be a pain, but after 3 hours I still don't have either of the bolts out or lose. I soaked them like crazy in PB blaster, of course. I'm wondering what those of you who've done it used as far as tools. I'm using a Craftsman 3/8" drive and I have 4 different lengths of extensions as well as a U-joint. I just can't seem to get into a position to get good torque on it. I undid the sway bar and swung it down already. I'm pondering getting either a bunch of 1/2" drive extensions and U joints ($$) or finding a length of pipe to use as a breaker on the 3/8". I almost feel like the U-joint was about to bust. Oh, and I pulled my tricep in the process. Any help would be appreciated!
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i have no experience with the starter but are you able to put a propone torch to the bolts? i did that on my roommate brakes that were seriously stuck and they came off like butter after heating
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I do have a hand held butane torch I may be able to get up there, but with all the Parts Blaster I don't think it would be wise. The whole garage smells like spilled gas because of the PB... I'll keep in mind though, thanks for the input....
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I did mine not to long ago, and i was lucky enough to not have to much trouble. I did some searching on here and the web before i did mine and found out that some people have had to loosen the exhaust to get theres out.
#5
how many miles are on yours... Mine had 100k and mud (which caused the failure) and i used the same method as you in this order (socket-Ujoint-extentions) but i would suggest either buying an adapter as i used or using 1/2" drive sockets... it will improve the torque since you are having trouble and it seems to take very little get them loose... Also be very carefull using the torch on things you have already soaked in PB blaster, could inflame more than you wanted to!
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I just changed mine about 2 months ago, it took me about an hour to get both bolts out. I soaked it in about half a can of PB blaster and used a 1/2" drive breaker bar with a bunch of extensions.....the bolts finally gave after plenty of knuckle bustin. I've also seen people loosen the header pipe right there, but thats last resort.
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Don"t know if it would help you but when I did mine I took off that exhaust down pipe so i could get more room to work and the starter will drop out easier with out that pipe.
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#8
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The more posts I read from you guys on the east coast, the worse I feel for you. I had to pull mine when I dropped my tranny but the bolts came right out. I'm pretty sure I was using my 3/8 ratchet with swivel head. Without crawling under there I don't remember but is there no way to get an impact on them (maybe w/extension & swivel)?
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Well my 4runner has been in Florida all but these last 2 or 3 years in salty Minnesota. I'm heading to town to get some more extensions and such, this is not fun!
#10
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I think the top bolt is the worst because of the angle, I had to have a buddy hold the socket on the bolts while I cranked the hell outta them, because I kept slipping off and couldn't get grip on them...........The engineers sure picked a great spot to put it......I'd like to b$%ch smack whoever came up with that!
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try using the half inch flavour. you'll get better torque from it. if you can, give the boltheads a couple good bangs with a brass drift if you've got one that'll reach. when i did my contacts, i made sure i had a good grip on the bolt head, then used the frame as a leverage to keep that grip secure, then just cranked it. hard. try using a wrench on the handle of your ratchet as a cheater bar...i'll come loose.
oh..and once you finally crack em..have fun trying to get it out. after an hour of fiddling, i ended up removing one of my PS lines that were in the way to make room. came right out after.
oh..and once you finally crack em..have fun trying to get it out. after an hour of fiddling, i ended up removing one of my PS lines that were in the way to make room. came right out after.
Last edited by d0ubledown; 01-13-2007 at 07:30 AM.
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I had looked that writeup over and did plenty of Yotatech leg-work, but the fact that he has headers on makes a big difference. There is a bracket that goes from the block to the crossover pipe that's in the way (can't get it off either) that isn't there if you have headers. I got a new ratchet with a swiveling head and a longer handle, but since I live in the stick and am on short time I'm going to drive to the nearest dealer and buy all 4 of the contacts. I'll take pictures so my bruised hands aren't for nothing. I'm thinking I'm in the majority, having a 3.4 auto with stock manifolds, so hopefully I can make someone's life easier when it's all said and done, and all the cussing has subsided!
#15
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Some tips on my web page:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...er.shtml#Links
Often getting a longer extension that gets you up in front of the engine can help. At least that was the trick on my buddy's '94 pickup.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...er.shtml#Links
Often getting a longer extension that gets you up in front of the engine can help. At least that was the trick on my buddy's '94 pickup.
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Some tips on my web page:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...er.shtml#Links
Often getting a longer extension that gets you up in front of the engine can help. At least that was the trick on my buddy's '94 pickup.
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...er.shtml#Links
Often getting a longer extension that gets you up in front of the engine can help. At least that was the trick on my buddy's '94 pickup.
I'll post the full set of pics for reference once I get it back together. In retrospect, there was a few things that would have made it a touch easier, but the issue is just a lack of hand/wrench space. I don't think I would have gotten the thing out without the use of the little mini butane torches I used. Thanks for the help, look for pics in a day or three. I'm off for a celebration beer!
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try a 15" 3/8 breaker bar, i didn't need it to do mine, i broke the bolts loose from the top and removed from the bottom, you have to undo a pwr steering line, and it will fall out. took about 30 minutes to get it out and 10 minutes to put it back in.
i had my skids off too.
i had my skids off too.
#19
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Sounds like a torque issue with using the 3/8 and extensions and swivels...
It looks like you have already walked away from it once to get some perspective and that does help. Map an approach where you can get a breaker bar on it or a bit of pipe on what you have. You are going to have to try it in a different position, angle or something to get the leverage.
When at first you dont succeed, try and try again...
It looks like you have already walked away from it once to get some perspective and that does help. Map an approach where you can get a breaker bar on it or a bit of pipe on what you have. You are going to have to try it in a different position, angle or something to get the leverage.
When at first you dont succeed, try and try again...
#20
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You're right, it was a torque issue, but the reason you can't get the torque to the bolt with a bigger bar is a lack of space. I did notice I had better luck with my ratchets that had more teeth because those few extra clicks were what it took to navigate through the obstacles.
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