mt_goat

Yes, or move the tranny back.

j-man

hey goat - im havin a hella of a time sliding the motor from the tranny - should it just slide forward? I havent loosend the tranny as i dont feel like messing with the tranny/transfercase. ITs already separated about an inch from the block - but thats all i can get it.

j-man

never mind - it was that darn black plate held on by 4 12mm bolts that had to come off - didnt realize that was holding the fly wheel in the tranny housing - oops!!!

Keith122

I'm removing the engine from my '97 4Runner 5Spd. I have all the bolts out, the starter out, exhaust disconnected, ect, but I'm having trouble getting the engine and transmition to seperate. They are still tight together. Any ideas?

Thanks

93toyrunner2

Is it in gear or in neutral? How many bolts out of the transmission? 6 or 10? Did you lower the transmission on a jack? Need a bigger hammer?

Keith122

Thanks for the quick reply! There were 6 17mm bolts, and 4 12mm bolts, plus the starter bolts. The tranny is supported with a jack and was in gear.

93toyrunner2

http://www.ncttora.com/FSM/1990-1995...neme/cylin.pdf
Start reading on page #2, and you will come upon something that you missed or did not remove.

Keith122

The fsm shows the engine and trans to be removed as a unit, and then seperating the two. Is this neccesary? I wanted to leave the trans in the vehhicle.

93toyrunner2

Not necessary. Look at the fsm for transmission removal procedure as well, seperate and slide the trans back, then pull the engine. Have you removed the front end components that are 1/2" in front of the oil pan? There are several write ups on here about removing 3vze engines, about supporting the trans, etc. Hit the Search button above, and get ready for some in depth reading.
Note, I always pull my engines with the trans in neutral. Don't know if it matters.

eddieleephd

you do have to support the transmission independently, this is likely the issue they are binding.
It is much easier to pull them out together if you have the capacity!
so you have the trans supported bu are they binding?

ubermoto

Another tip - Jack up the rear axle to lower the front end of the vehicle. I propped up the rear wheels of our 4Runner on a couple old RR ties to improve the angle. I didn't slide the transmission back. In addition to putting the tranny in neutral, you can bump the crankshaft a little either way to make sure the spline going to the tran isn't under pressure.

The only thing I screwed up when pulling the engine was failing to disconnect one wire from the front diff. Wasn't too big a deal, but one more thing to watch out for.

Good luck!

Jer

eddieleephd

remember.

- it was that darn black plate held on by 4 12mm bolts that had to come off - didnt realize that was holding the fly wheel in the tranny housing - oops!!!
__________________

Keith122

Well, I'm making some progress. I was able to pry the engine forward about 3/8 of an inch. I work in a body shop. Lots of tools available, but this is not our real expertise..... I've just been picking away at this... The black plate at the bottom is off. I have been trying to shift the weight f the engine around to see if I can get these apart. The 4runner the engine is coming out of is a donor vehicle. overall decent shape, but has a rusty frame. I have 97 4Runner LTD that i will be transplanting this engine into. I need the auto trans so my wife can drive this one when I'm done.

eddieleephd

my recommendation is to use a metal Item to make sure you are completely free all the way around and then take a tube that is long enough to reach the splined shaft in the center of the torque converter and shoot some penetrant on the splines,
If they didn't use grease on the splines last time they were apart it could be just friction from rust.
jiggle and wiggle that should work.

and the one thing I dont see you say you have disconnected is the engine mounts....
this would create such an issue.

Keith122

Thanks for all the replies. I didn't get the chance to work on this much yesterday. The left side seems to want to come apart, the rt side is stubborn. I can get a pry bar in both sides. The rt side just closes up again when I remove the pry bar. I have the tranny supported with a jack, and the engine is off the mounts. I have tried to get the correct support on both parts so they won't bind. So far, no amount of prying, shaking, swearing has helped. I'll try some PB blaster. It can't hurt. This is a 5sp truck. Maybe something with the clutch could be holding?

eddieleephd

it honestly sounds as if you do not have the bolts out of the top of the bell housing, I remember having to use Three extensions or so to get these out.
oh I just saw 5spd. the actuator arm for the throw out bearing needs to be removed. you can pull it out the side of the housing,
This I remember was an annoyance. however you say right and left is this from the front looking back?
slave Cylinder is detached?

Keith122

All the bolt, including the two top bolts are out. Those are not too bad to get out with a long extension and a wobble socket. I did not remove the slave cylinder or the throw out arm. I'm guessing that's the problem.

jdl25

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like it is ready to come out. Maybe try taking your engine hoist and putting a little upward pull on it while trying to seperate? This is what I did and it worked great I removed the fan and radiator and pulled the engine forward and up and out she came.

4Tard

If you have a lift/big tires, remove them and replace with stock parts. a 5VZ is very tall with the oil pan, and I had a hell of a time clearing the core support with Icons on the front.

Keith122

Got it out. There was a bolt left in that I had loosened, But not removed...DUH! Working on getting the bad motor out of the truck I will be driving. Still have to get the clutch off, ect. The "new" truck is an automatic.