2nd gen. poor man's ISR mod worth $5.33 cdn.
07-28-2005, 07:46 PM
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2nd gen. poor man's ISR mod worth $5.33 cdn.
ok, pardon me guys for going into a different path in doing the isr mod. I just feel that there is a cheaper way of doing it. I did the first half of it-lower silencer below the air filter box is gone using 1 hose fitting-3/8" x 1/4", an O-ring, 1/2" nut, end pvc with cap (black) that i bought from the hardware.
i just simply removed the lower silencer and use the pvc end with cap to patch the opening that was left. I also improvised a rubber washer to make -up the gap between the diameter of both the opening and the pvc cap-this add more size on the pvc to fit.
Next, i drilled a hole using a 1/4" drill bit at a good spot on the big air hose existing from the air box and fix the hose fitting by putting the nut inside the hose at the other end of it. Put some goop glue outside to make it air tight and dried it for 15 mins., connected the hose (originally going to the silencer) directly to the fitting then start it the truck and whola! done deal!
Total time spent-30 mins.
Next part is to remove the other silencer between the two big hoses by bending a metal pipe to be used as a connector to both hoses. I will use the said silencer as a pattern for the angle of the bend-probably i am going to spend about 7 bucks to finish this work. This is just my crude idea but thanks for the pioneers of the isr mod where i used it as a reference.
More power guys!
i just simply removed the lower silencer and use the pvc end with cap to patch the opening that was left. I also improvised a rubber washer to make -up the gap between the diameter of both the opening and the pvc cap-this add more size on the pvc to fit.
Next, i drilled a hole using a 1/4" drill bit at a good spot on the big air hose existing from the air box and fix the hose fitting by putting the nut inside the hose at the other end of it. Put some goop glue outside to make it air tight and dried it for 15 mins., connected the hose (originally going to the silencer) directly to the fitting then start it the truck and whola! done deal!
Total time spent-30 mins.
Next part is to remove the other silencer between the two big hoses by bending a metal pipe to be used as a connector to both hoses. I will use the said silencer as a pattern for the angle of the bend-probably i am going to spend about 7 bucks to finish this work. This is just my crude idea but thanks for the pioneers of the isr mod where i used it as a reference.
More power guys!
07-31-2005, 01:01 PM
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send em to silver_truck13@hotmail.com and I'll host em for you
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07-31-2005, 07:04 PM
#8
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Sounds like what I did..............
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig/88/performance.htm
{ive since replaced that taped up hose with one single hose)
http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/afertig/88/performance.htm
{ive since replaced that taped up hose with one single hose)
08-01-2005, 09:51 PM
#10
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So how is that nut secured on the inside of the tube? You better HOPE AND PRAY that nut doesnt come off, because if it does, it will get sucked into your intake and DESTROY your engine.
08-01-2005, 10:28 PM
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Looks like he used the Goop Glue for locking the bolt to the fitting;kinda like threadlock.
It would of been better if u drilled a hole in the PVC cap, and then screw and glue the fitting right in there. Even though the OEM hose for fitting won't reach, you can always buy a longer one.
It would of been better if u drilled a hole in the PVC cap, and then screw and glue the fitting right in there. Even though the OEM hose for fitting won't reach, you can always buy a longer one.
08-02-2005, 12:55 PM
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the fitting was secured with a nut. Actually, even without the nut, the fitting is well in place because the rubber hose is somewhat flexible so i just drilled an exact but tight hole on the rubber and holds the fitting pretty well. Yeah, the nut is my concern too but since i tightened it really hard, which relieves me.
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