bm87runner

hey chef so that white screw/spring completely closes that whole or does it just limit a certain amount of air that goes in? does the screw/spring have a name?

And i was thinking.....
i did some "light wheeling" like the day before i started getting these problems, do you think that could have moved my distributor and made my timing off, causing a loss of power? and as far as those tests chef, i need to fix my battery problem still. this is about the 3rd time my battery has died and i take it to get tested and it passes? all times?

Im sorry i kind of rely/need your help man, i try to do as much as i can on my own and research but im not as wise as you, and never have anyone around that really knows anything about cars.. so thank you for the help man i really appreciate it.

im going to jump start my truck with the honda, see if it will start back up, then ill go to autozone to see what the 3420ujalj;lk is going on

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Brandon... don't WORRY about asking for help... If I can't, don't know or don't have time.... I will just be honest, promise! lol.

Far as the white screw, spring... it doesn't allow air through 'ITSELF', .... In other words... with the screw in and totally screwed out, it still doesn't allow any air through it's 'body', .... it only adjusts how much air can get in through the vacuum ports, limits that air, whatever. If it's NOT there, it's pulling in air through the hole where it's supposed to be, ....make sense? Plug it up with a vacuum nub, something to plug it, and test that way, for now. It doesn't matter how great the power steering idle up or AC idle up performs for now, ...you just wanna see how it affects 'performance'. Bottom line, YOU NEED THAT SCREW AND SPRING. Get it from a junk yard, it's not some complicated Sensor or something,....it's strictly mechanical, like the idle/air screw on the throttle body.... Neither even have a diaphragm as I can remember. I will look at mine...maybe the one on the plenum DOES have a diaphragm......that would probably cause it just to not pull in any air.

I told you to do a test with carb cleaner, etc.... did you do that? (see if the idle goes up when you squirt cleaner/ether in that hole where the white screw should be?

Sorry bout the battery thing.... Sounds like your alternator is bad, orrrrrrr, maybe first check the 80A fuse in the fusible link box next to the battery. You'll see it, it says "80A" on it, right on top. If it's broken...there's your problem with the constantly draining battery. If not, it might be bad brushes or such in the alternator. Napa makes a Denso Parts Alternator for 89$-110$, depending on which one you get/what deal you get.(I have a member card, get 20% off anything).

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello bm87runner.. I am a little late, but seen you having battery draining problems. My 87 flatbed was draining all the time and it was that the key was so worn out and I got into the habit of making sure it was not turned completely off before removing the key.

If your alternator is bad, one clue is your brake and alternator light will light up or flicker if I remember right. I know it is 2 lights that light up or flicker.

Here is a link to proper ground wires, that I would check when you get a chance. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-guide-194413/

You were asking about your timing, saying you done some light wheeling and was wondering if your timing moved. I doubt it unless your distributor bolt was loose. But you could check it quick if you have a timing light. I could step you through it if you need to.

bm87runner

got some decent news guys, so i was on the phone with toyota today and they said i cant order just the white screw, and ive already called all the local junk yards to see if there is any trucks and they laugh.... cause there gone the day they get one.. but ne way they said i have to buy the whole diaphragm for a wopping 24 dollars, so ill order that in a few days.. but my news is that i took some duct tape to where that white screw should be, re did a few grounds, the cylinder head to fire wall ground was gone, one of the threads that says where the grounds are says that ground can make the spark plugs work better or something(still not sure if the ground from battery to block is on) then i wacked the distributor (softly, im not that dumb) and took it for a spin, suprisingly i had gotten my power back!!! but still the idling problem.

i made a video.... well maybe we will just call it an adio haha its night time and was on my celli but its the sound that matters anyway this is how the truck sounds.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sH9WWp0Rdq0
haha i set off my neighbors car alarm by my truck trying to blow up

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Glad to hear you making some progress. Those grounds make a difference. When a truck hits the yard they get stripped quick. When you come across one, better get what you can. I missed out on some stuff on a new one the other day. It had been there 2 days.

Looking forward to your build. Still got to catch up on it. Good luck.

bm87runner

And Terry I don't have a timing light, autozone or orielly probably have one. Do you think it would be expensive to have a place check it? Like big o?

And apparently after testing my battery like a week ago it's coming up as bad battery now, the guy said if was because my old terminals. So I upgraded my battery for a whole 12 dollars and got a 7yr warranty woo. And if the alternator is bad or the belt comes off.. the brake light and battery light come on.

And yeah man there's people that go like everyday/wait there for a toyo they can strip its dumb and thank you

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Depending on where you go, they might check for free or charge a quite a bit. I know you can get one for less then $40. If you jump TE1 and E1 and connect the leads according to manufactures instructions.

Usually a power to the positve battery terminal and one lead to the No.1 plug wire and aim the light it should show around 5 degrees Before Top Dead Center. It helps to mark the Crankshaft pulley with a marker on the line on the pulley notch.

If you got a Haynes manual, it does a real good job of how to check and set timing on it. On page 1-30.

I have a picture of how to jump TE1 and E1. It is also how you can pull codes.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Brandon...

I'ma have to check back in later... But wow, 24$???? yER KIDDING! lol.. that's unreal, honestly! lol.

Ok, really quick.... Your buzzer in that audio sounds like an old Sci-Fi/horror flick! lol.

BTW.... why is the idle so high?

And, are you saying at the end that it's dieseling??? interesting!

OH, and you had forgotten the Head Block Plate to Chassis/rear firewall/ ground?

Did you check the 80A fuse?

Timing being WAYYYYY off CAN cause dieseling. And, it's very telling of some things... I have to refresh in my older books and the FSM. There is a whole section on "Turn car off and it continues to run on" in the FSM and even in the Haynes, I believe, toward the front.

I'll be back, ....GOOD LOOKIN OUT, TERRY!!!! lol

bm87runner

well i get paid this friday so im going to probably get my timing checked out. and ive jumped those terminals to get some codes but i never knew it had anything to do with timing, thats crazy.

yes only 24 bucks when he said that i was like holly sh*** (oops) thats it?

BTW.... why is the idle so high?
um wanna come to vegas and gamble...blah..blahhh.... WORK ON MY TRUCK hahah jk. i will find out sooner or later

what do you mean? does mine sound different than yours? or did you just rip yours out? and yes when i turn they key off it takes about 3 seconds after turning the key it will finally shut off, it used to shut off like riiiiight away though, and also the fan keeps spinning so im thinking its time for a new fan clutch.

yes i checked the fuse but i cant even tell how that would indicate it went out, normally the little wire in there breaks when the fuse goes bad right? the 80 doesnt even looook like that could happen haha its really thick, well in my opinion for the fuse.

and ya i forgot that ground, but then that made me notice this.


then when i started it this morning (i was doing some work to headers, and vacuum leak) i saw a bunch of smoke coming up and i turned it off and went to take a look.... to see this.

and this is what the damage is...... destroyed 4th plug wire
hey chef were did you get your little wiring set up? lce?


but here is some quick little vids, idk if you can hear it good but its running nice... when im not idling, at a stop, or pushing the clutch in, or slowing down hahahahahaha

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpMbYiM5f2o

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Do NOT run a wire off the starter wire to GROUND! LOL. The second wire goes to the Fusible link box.... to the main power wire for that fusible link section.

The ground wire goes to the block from - terminal... then a second wire goes to the fenderwall right there to the pass. side. You'll see a hole there. That's to ground the battery to the block with one and to the chassis with another. Just like you ground the HEAD, separately, from block plate to firewall by the heater core outlets.

Gotta work, bbl8r, hang in there.

PS> With the TPS disconnected, it will idle higher... but only like 1000rpm or something comparatively to 750rpm if it's set right, etc.

Also, check your idle/air screw and see if it's all the way out or something.... (The metal screw/flathead on the throttle body, k? Screw that all the way in and then out 3 times, to start.

Also, I told you how to do the dizzy for now, to mock up timing pretty close, ....remember? Leave 1/4" of space on top of the pivot bolt.

Dutchbelly

In case you work better from pictures, this is the starter wiring diagram from the FSM of my 1988 4runner


Hope it helps

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I used to go to Vegas in my young and single days, sure miss Vegas and California being next door. I never was any good at gambling, did some donating to the casinos.lol

Like Chef said, setting your dizzy off of the top bolt will get you in close to timing. You have to jump the terminals or you will never get the timing set right. If you get a timing light and get everything hooked up right, you can turn the distributor either way and see how it makes your timing react.

It would be a good learning experience for you and think you would enjoy it. I am on my laptop at work and am limited so will check back.

Drizzy021

good job keeping your runner and keeping it on the road...dedication is key to getting places in life.