bm87runner's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
08-12-2011, 11:31 PM
#43
NO WAY! Wow, I paid less at the dealer.... that just doesn't sound right, man. I believe you, lol... just saying, ya know? I paid 78$ at the Dealer for my TPS with 20% off.... I paid 86$ at the dealer for my Denso 02 Sensor... (of course, later I learned of all these sites that have things SO MUCH cheaper-OEM, lol) Anyway...... Let me know what happens with the multi-meter thing.... Harbor Freight has em really cheap.... Autozone should as well. You want a dial one for the 02 sensor, and those are cheaper anyhow. OH, and O'rielly is still having clearance bins, where I've SEEN them for like 5$ instead of 18$ or something. Try it out.
Yeah, just hold off anyway on those parts.... Test first, ya know? You should have an engine light just from driving around without the TPS hooked up.... at least WHILE you're doing so, ya know? Test for codes again, ...I bet you have a TPS code.
I also remember saying something about your Coolant Temp Sensor..... they can REALLY wreak havoc with idle, etc. BUT, since you're pushing on the throttle linkage and it's dropping a bit, .... I still think the TPS is at least part of the issue(it can kick up things like crazy, it gives action on the other side of that arm, ya know?)
Yeah, just hold off anyway on those parts.... Test first, ya know? You should have an engine light just from driving around without the TPS hooked up.... at least WHILE you're doing so, ya know? Test for codes again, ...I bet you have a TPS code.
I also remember saying something about your Coolant Temp Sensor..... they can REALLY wreak havoc with idle, etc. BUT, since you're pushing on the throttle linkage and it's dropping a bit, .... I still think the TPS is at least part of the issue(it can kick up things like crazy, it gives action on the other side of that arm, ya know?)
08-13-2011, 10:12 AM
#44
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i swear, that was at dealer direct though i couldnt find the other website you were talking about, and my step dads son in law works for bmw and that bmw owns the dessert toyota and he told me if i ever needed parts or anything i could use his discount... which i think would be a decent discount for owner discount? right?
im off to go pay my phone bill, then to orielly because we just got one of those a few months ago, they just changed their name but stilll seems different, if there isnt any in the clearance ill probably check autozone.
be back with the meter and then ill learn how to test the tps and 02 and maybe even the CTsensor if i can learn that as well.
im off to go pay my phone bill, then to orielly because we just got one of those a few months ago, they just changed their name but stilll seems different, if there isnt any in the clearance ill probably check autozone.
be back with the meter and then ill learn how to test the tps and 02 and maybe even the CTsensor if i can learn that as well.
08-13-2011, 10:56 AM
#45
All of them are EASILY learn-able/DOABLE/....some easier than others, but all easy once you get it! DO NOT be intimidated.... once you do it ONE TIME, you'll laugh(at yourself, if you're like me! lol. HEY, good to laugh at yourself on occasion.... it leads to TACKLING BIGGER AND BIGGER THINGS IN LIFE, RIGHT? !!! 
hahaha)
CT is easy.... Just read the EFI section and you'll have it all down in a jiffy!
Best wishes, .... and btw, CELL BILLS ARE CRAZY NOW! is it just me? GEEEEEEEEESH!
hahaha) CT is easy.... Just read the EFI section and you'll have it all down in a jiffy!
Best wishes, .... and btw, CELL BILLS ARE CRAZY NOW! is it just me? GEEEEEEEEESH!
08-13-2011, 11:49 AM
#46
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just got the multi meter, still trying to figure out what the hell i do with it hahah jk. but i am still learning how to test it, so im gonna read the efi section? alright thanks so much chef, 6.99 meter at oreilly. be back when....... whennn i get my tests done.
08-13-2011, 12:22 PM
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ughhhhhhhhh i hate this booook. this is all it says under the efi - throttle positioner system.....
checking
if the throttle positioner system is suspected of being at fault, have the various components checked by a toyota service technician or repair facility......
also for some reason i was looking at my pcv valve and its like the gromet that holds it in isnt airtight with the valve and its leaking??? it was brand new??
checking
if the throttle positioner system is suspected of being at fault, have the various components checked by a toyota service technician or repair facility......
also for some reason i was looking at my pcv valve and its like the gromet that holds it in isnt airtight with the valve and its leaking??? it was brand new??
08-13-2011, 03:37 PM
#48
Ok, ....in the Haynes, even, it lists testing procedures for the TPS...
*Throttle fully closed, read IDL and E2 .... Should be(?) Then, next step, insert .058 feeler between stop plate ................* etc. It's there. But really, like I mentioned, for the TPS?>>> You SHOULD be on 4crawlers page. Just google "4crawler tps" and you'll see it, ok? He has other pages on reading almost every thing in these. Trust me! He even explains how to properly use a multi-meter, ya know?
Far as testing the CT, that's just 2 plugs and 3 different readings you take. One includes reading off the body as a ground, etc. They're all in chapter 4 of the Haynes, Brandon, ... don't fret, lol.
Far as the FSM?>>>> You're obviously in the wrong section. Go to EFI section and look up TPS, etc., and it has DETAILED procedures for reading them, footnotes that take you to other sections in the FSM, etc. I have to run, when I get home tonight, I'll check for ya, if you can't find it.
*Throttle fully closed, read IDL and E2 .... Should be(?) Then, next step, insert .058 feeler between stop plate ................* etc. It's there. But really, like I mentioned, for the TPS?>>> You SHOULD be on 4crawlers page. Just google "4crawler tps" and you'll see it, ok? He has other pages on reading almost every thing in these. Trust me! He even explains how to properly use a multi-meter, ya know?
Far as testing the CT, that's just 2 plugs and 3 different readings you take. One includes reading off the body as a ground, etc. They're all in chapter 4 of the Haynes, Brandon, ... don't fret, lol.
Far as the FSM?>>>> You're obviously in the wrong section. Go to EFI section and look up TPS, etc., and it has DETAILED procedures for reading them, footnotes that take you to other sections in the FSM, etc. I have to run, when I get home tonight, I'll check for ya, if you can't find it.
08-13-2011, 05:01 PM
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i give up............. just kidding.but i dont feel so smart anymore, i have no idea to read my meter. i printed out his whole thread thing from google im going to read it like twice hah. and also i just remembered something. i had some help from this dude while putting the engine in and he kinda hooked up a few things.... but this is what i saw
[IMG]
[/IMG] the valve thing itself is light blue, but whats connected to it is green, [IMG]
[/IMG] and i found this connector that is light blue just hanging under the intake, if that should be hooked to it instead of the green connector what would the green one go to, and could this/did this cause the problem?and this is the multimeter i got, im mainly having trouble learning how to use this thing.....[IMG]
[/IMG]
08-13-2011, 06:18 PM
#51
I need that multimeter picture to be a little more in focus in order to figure out what those options are... but the multimeters That I'm familiar are digital.. I've never read codes but I'm sure they're applicable right? check out the dmms at sears.. actually just looking at this pic might help you figure out what your numbers are?
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...&blockType=L12
http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...&blockType=L12
08-13-2011, 08:01 PM
#52
Ok, from what I can seeeeee, lol.... yeah, lil out of focus, that would help.. But the "10K" setting should work fine when testing the TPS, using the "OHM" setting.
the plug on the VSV that is blue is correct...>unless he switched them up somehow(doubt it, as the one you're pointing to in the 3rd pic?>>>> Look closer underneath with a mirror... I will bet that is your IACV connector... which, if it's not hooked up, ...yes, it might do some wonky things. Mainly though, it just wouldn't allow you to have "IDLE UP" when it's cold, as that's what the IACV(idle air control valve) does. Under your throttle body, you'll see a module that has one large vacuum hose coming out of the front of it, and one in the back.... Under that hose coming out the back(maybe above, can't remember off hand)....there's a connector on the back of it. Plug it right in there, and yer done with that.
Did you go to the 4CRAWLER TPS CHEAP TRICKS PAGE, LIKE I SAID, BRANDON? LOL. It has plenty of info on reading a multi meter, how they work, etc. BUT, just set it to 10K and start testing the pins the book/4crawler page tells you to, ok? I did a video of this, while back.... but it was adjusting it on a bench.... and not sure I posted it.
First, plug that connector into the IACV(also known as the AAV/Air Auxiliary Vavle).
Also, the black VSV on top of the Valve cover? >>> That should be mounted in the FRONT of the valve cover, .....not sure why yours is shoved toward the back of the cover, near the other VSV. The black one is for AC, the blue and green one is for the Fuel Pressure Regulator, it serves as a "V.acuum S.witching V.alve", .... got me so far? The AC VSV simply switches open as you turn on the AC to allow for "AC Idle up".
NOW, ....look under the throttle body on the edge of the intake, facing the radiator... it should have 2 sensors there. The one on the left is the CSI time switch, the other on the right is the Coolant Temp Sensor(CTS). I can't remember, but that plug for the CTS might be a blue or green color as well.... So make sure both are connected. I still would bet it's to the IACV, ....but I can't KNOW that until I'm looking at it, ya know?
the plug on the VSV that is blue is correct...>unless he switched them up somehow(doubt it, as the one you're pointing to in the 3rd pic?>>>> Look closer underneath with a mirror... I will bet that is your IACV connector... which, if it's not hooked up, ...yes, it might do some wonky things. Mainly though, it just wouldn't allow you to have "IDLE UP" when it's cold, as that's what the IACV(idle air control valve) does. Under your throttle body, you'll see a module that has one large vacuum hose coming out of the front of it, and one in the back.... Under that hose coming out the back(maybe above, can't remember off hand)....there's a connector on the back of it. Plug it right in there, and yer done with that.
Did you go to the 4CRAWLER TPS CHEAP TRICKS PAGE, LIKE I SAID, BRANDON? LOL. It has plenty of info on reading a multi meter, how they work, etc. BUT, just set it to 10K and start testing the pins the book/4crawler page tells you to, ok? I did a video of this, while back.... but it was adjusting it on a bench.... and not sure I posted it.
First, plug that connector into the IACV(also known as the AAV/Air Auxiliary Vavle).
Also, the black VSV on top of the Valve cover? >>> That should be mounted in the FRONT of the valve cover, .....not sure why yours is shoved toward the back of the cover, near the other VSV. The black one is for AC, the blue and green one is for the Fuel Pressure Regulator, it serves as a "V.acuum S.witching V.alve", .... got me so far? The AC VSV simply switches open as you turn on the AC to allow for "AC Idle up".
NOW, ....look under the throttle body on the edge of the intake, facing the radiator... it should have 2 sensors there. The one on the left is the CSI time switch, the other on the right is the Coolant Temp Sensor(CTS). I can't remember, but that plug for the CTS might be a blue or green color as well.... So make sure both are connected. I still would bet it's to the IACV, ....but I can't KNOW that until I'm looking at it, ya know?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-13-2011 at 08:04 PM.
08-13-2011, 08:07 PM
#53
See where the AC(black) VSV is on my 87 22re? It's toward the front/middle, right side, top of the valve cover, ... 2 Hoses come out of it and into the Plenum in specific spots. The rear one just gets pulled on from one port and then pulls into the other one off the Fuel Pressure Regulator.
08-13-2011, 08:12 PM
#54
See in the right of this pic, front of intake...... see the two sensors in front? Notice, my CSI connector is BROWN and my CTS connector is GREEN. But, what does bother me a lil is that the loose connector on the top of the head? .... it's Green....Hmmm. I'd have to look at my VSV. I think it's VSV-Green, connector Blue... Still, I'll look.
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 08-13-2011 at 08:14 PM.
08-15-2011, 06:37 PM
#55
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hey blake, thanks for the help man i think i figured it out.
and chef...
that light blue connector that i asked about, i pluged that into the module under the tb, thats where it goes right?
and yes that brown plug and the cts are plugged in.
your vsv from what i can see in the picture is a green connector on the blue vsv, so i think i have mine all right now
i should have had my update done yesterday but my first youtube upload took literally 4 hours? is that normal?
here is my mm, but im pretty sure i know how to use it, the thing im really asking about is why there is a scroll on the side that says ohms adj
[IMG]
[/IMG]
then i have a question if this hose is hooked up where its supposed to go, one day it didnt have a clamp on it and my half of tank of gas all a sudden went to empty, i get out and looook...... my gas was all over the parking lot, gas was straight pouring out of there like a fountain. i hooked it back up and clamped it down, but it seems like my gas is dissapearing or something still.
and some more of it
and this is just for you chef
its hooked up right, right?
So here is how my tests went, and like i said im not as smart as you guys so i could only do two of the tests because when i went out and bought a mm and some of the gauges it calls for, .57mm(.0224") for one test and .85mm(.0335") and my thing only came with stupid ones like .018/(.457mm), .021/(.533mm), .024/(.610mm) and those are just three random examples... but heres my tests...
and here is what the multimeter read..
and my second test is a video, my first youtube vid woooo haha just be careful for the volume, its a little loud
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MEH12JV_kU
and chef...
that light blue connector that i asked about, i pluged that into the module under the tb, thats where it goes right?
and yes that brown plug and the cts are plugged in.
your vsv from what i can see in the picture is a green connector on the blue vsv, so i think i have mine all right now
i should have had my update done yesterday but my first youtube upload took literally 4 hours? is that normal?
here is my mm, but im pretty sure i know how to use it, the thing im really asking about is why there is a scroll on the side that says ohms adj
[IMG]
[/IMG]then i have a question if this hose is hooked up where its supposed to go, one day it didnt have a clamp on it and my half of tank of gas all a sudden went to empty, i get out and looook...... my gas was all over the parking lot, gas was straight pouring out of there like a fountain. i hooked it back up and clamped it down, but it seems like my gas is dissapearing or something still.
and some more of it
and this is just for you chef
its hooked up right, right?So here is how my tests went, and like i said im not as smart as you guys so i could only do two of the tests because when i went out and bought a mm and some of the gauges it calls for, .57mm(.0224") for one test and .85mm(.0335") and my thing only came with stupid ones like .018/(.457mm), .021/(.533mm), .024/(.610mm) and those are just three random examples... but heres my tests...
and here is what the multimeter read..
and my second test is a video, my first youtube vid woooo haha just be careful for the volume, its a little loud
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MEH12JV_kU
08-15-2011, 06:39 PM
#56
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and ooooops in the picture of that vsv, the green circle.... there is supposed to be a white screw thing with a spring, and idea what thats called or how much it is, and does this "reallly" affect anything
thanks for checking in guys
brandon
thanks for checking in guys
brandon
08-15-2011, 07:20 PM
#57
Hahahaa.... thanks, man! Great pics!
Ok, .... I'm not an expert with the dial meters.... and I can't tell you, conclusively, "Yes, that's within range" on the "video" test.... But the first test, ...yes, 400 is within range... but I'm not sure, again, if I'm reading that meter right. It should say in many threads/technical write up threads as to 'yes' or 'no' on that one. On the test it calls for infinity, did you get infinity?
I'll have to read up a lil...
Far as the line that's leaking, ...that's the fuel line directly to your Fuel Pressure Regulator.... leaking is not a good thing. It could be losing pressure like that. Plus, it's DANGEROUS! lol
The Idle up valve that you're pointing to, which connects to the AC-VSV and the Power Steering... that is missing the spring and white adjustment screw, DEFINITELY not ok. What I want you to do is fire it up.... while it's running, spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid right into that area... if it idles right up...then it's DEFINITELY a source for some vacuum leaking. You need to get that fixed, Brandon... Did you take it off when removing the motor, etc.?
Now, whether the hoses to the AC vsv are right are not is easily tell-tale... IF, of course, the VSV for the AC is even working. However, ..... when you get those hoses backwards, ...it HISSES like a banshee! lol. Makes a kind of 'whistling/hissing' sound, letting you know that basket on the end is pulling in air where it shouldn't(it does that, I believe, to keep you from blowing it out via vacuum pulling in the wrong place. And when you switch on the AC, a valve in there is electronically opened and allows a complete cycle of 'vacuum' through that valve)... Does that make sense? HOWEVER, ...if that larger valve on the plenum is just sucking in air(which would TOTALLY explain why your idle is up to 2200!)... then I don't think it can pull vacuum on that AC VSV.... does THAT make sense as well? That larger idle up valve that's supposed to have the screw and spring?>>>> it limits the amount that the RPM's raise/how much EXTRA vacuum is allowed to be pulled ONLY when the AC is on(it needs this to happen because you're pulling a tremendous load through the AC, ..thus, "MORE AIR, which means MORE FUEL" as well.)
I wish you were close, I'd come by with my meter. I found my digital one, cheap, at 28$.... And I know you were trying to watch the funds, plus you wanted to test the 02, which really calls for a dial type like you got. It seems to be working, fine... but I'm not sure, JUST YET, how to read that row for the ohms.
Ok, .... I'm not an expert with the dial meters.... and I can't tell you, conclusively, "Yes, that's within range" on the "video" test.... But the first test, ...yes, 400 is within range... but I'm not sure, again, if I'm reading that meter right. It should say in many threads/technical write up threads as to 'yes' or 'no' on that one. On the test it calls for infinity, did you get infinity?
I'll have to read up a lil...
Far as the line that's leaking, ...that's the fuel line directly to your Fuel Pressure Regulator.... leaking is not a good thing. It could be losing pressure like that. Plus, it's DANGEROUS! lol
The Idle up valve that you're pointing to, which connects to the AC-VSV and the Power Steering... that is missing the spring and white adjustment screw, DEFINITELY not ok. What I want you to do is fire it up.... while it's running, spray some carb cleaner or starter fluid right into that area... if it idles right up...then it's DEFINITELY a source for some vacuum leaking. You need to get that fixed, Brandon... Did you take it off when removing the motor, etc.?
Now, whether the hoses to the AC vsv are right are not is easily tell-tale... IF, of course, the VSV for the AC is even working. However, ..... when you get those hoses backwards, ...it HISSES like a banshee! lol. Makes a kind of 'whistling/hissing' sound, letting you know that basket on the end is pulling in air where it shouldn't(it does that, I believe, to keep you from blowing it out via vacuum pulling in the wrong place. And when you switch on the AC, a valve in there is electronically opened and allows a complete cycle of 'vacuum' through that valve)... Does that make sense? HOWEVER, ...if that larger valve on the plenum is just sucking in air(which would TOTALLY explain why your idle is up to 2200!)... then I don't think it can pull vacuum on that AC VSV.... does THAT make sense as well? That larger idle up valve that's supposed to have the screw and spring?>>>> it limits the amount that the RPM's raise/how much EXTRA vacuum is allowed to be pulled ONLY when the AC is on(it needs this to happen because you're pulling a tremendous load through the AC, ..thus, "MORE AIR, which means MORE FUEL" as well.)
I wish you were close, I'd come by with my meter. I found my digital one, cheap, at 28$.... And I know you were trying to watch the funds, plus you wanted to test the 02, which really calls for a dial type like you got. It seems to be working, fine... but I'm not sure, JUST YET, how to read that row for the ohms.
08-15-2011, 07:32 PM
#58
I cannot be sure, Brandon.. but I would be willing to bet that that is a LARGE portion of your problem. (The Idle Up AC/PS Vaccum Assist Valve that is missing the screw and spring)..... If it's pulling in air, it's a pretty decent amount of "Unmetered Air"... Just like if you were to leave the intake plenum bolts really loose... air would be pulled in at the seal of the intake/plenum, and that would also be unmetered, causing HAVOC! (ALLLLL the air coming in your motor is "measured"/"Adjusted" by the >>>>>> "AIR FLOW METER" and other components.... >) The motor pulls in air through the plenum, AC VSV, VSV, Power Steering, Cruise Control(but all those are 'contained', and much of that vacuum/air is caused by combustion, PULLING air through the intake and out the exhaust, and those things/ac, etc./ are preset on the amount they allow in, according to the load whatever they run demands, ya feel me?)... and ... ALL of those things relay that 'they're on' to the ECU, .....which reads that 'metered' air, adjusts via other things it reads, like the 02, through the TPS and even the AFM.
I'm probably screwing some of that up!^^^But IT'S A PROBLEM to have unmetered air getting in, trust me! lol.
The Fuel pressure regulator is mechanical(works via vacuum through a diaphragm).... but it's connected to the VSV(the green and blue one). You might need to replace that fuel line, for one.... Find out why it's leaking, replace it(hose, whatever) and THEN move on to the rest. Leaking fuel is a BIG NO NO! lol.
I'm probably screwing some of that up!^^^But IT'S A PROBLEM to have unmetered air getting in, trust me! lol.
The Fuel pressure regulator is mechanical(works via vacuum through a diaphragm).... but it's connected to the VSV(the green and blue one). You might need to replace that fuel line, for one.... Find out why it's leaking, replace it(hose, whatever) and THEN move on to the rest. Leaking fuel is a BIG NO NO! lol.
08-15-2011, 08:14 PM
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on the test that calls for infinity it needs the .85mm feeler gauge and remember, i only have stupid gauges.... or is it just me? hahah
and yes i was a cheap
, my meter was only $6, but hey what else can you do when your broke eh?
that fuel line only leaked the one time it didnt have a clamp. I lost like $25 worth of gas. crazy thing though is that this happened at the dmv. I had to push my truck across the parking lot because with all the smokers in las vegas i was scared someone was going to accidentaly light me on fire. OH YEAH!!!! I'VE BEEN CIGARETTE FREE FOR 3 TO 4 MONTHS!!!!(thanks to the homie chef) and (lecig.com)
(important)
as far as the idle up valve (makes sense), no i didnt take it off, when i first got the truck a mechanic came to check it out and one of the things that happened is that white thing and spring flew off never to be found again..... she said she was going to replace it but its been over a year.......... but what really makes sense to me know is that when that happened/before i found out i had a cracked block. my truck used to idle at about 3000, like its doing now, and when i was at a stop light or something id have to turn my truck off because it felt like it was going to blow up,(i shift at about 4500 any way so thats only like 1500rpm of actually driving?) then id turn it back on and drive a way, and of coarse replacing the engine wouldnt fix that problem, but thats what its doing again, it revs up to about 3000 with the clutch out in neutral, while im in gear coasting, and i turn it off cause i feel uncomfortable letting it idle that high. and that really makes sense to why i feel like im loosing an obsene amount of gas.
so im hoping that idle up valve will fix my idling problem, then i just have to figure out whats going on with my loss of power, and of coarse, i cant go wheeling until i replace my shocks. especially my front two.... any one have any doners? ill pay for shipping
geeeees i so wish you were close man, can chill and work on both our rigs haha, that be sick!
chef this is sounding so logical, i really hope this is my idle problem, should i just see if the blue vsv and black (a/c) is reasonably priced and if so replace them? cause if that blue one was clogged or broken it would mess up the fuel pressure regulator right? and the a/c goes with the idle up ac/ps vacuum assist valve, so that could be another thing to add to the check list
i also just went out to try spraying starter fluid in there, to find out..... i have a dead batter? ughhh im gonna have autozone do there free little charging system check to see if it might be a positive battery cable or something, because i know the battery isnt dead and that alternator is brand new! ughhhhhhhhhh
and yes i was a cheap
, my meter was only $6, but hey what else can you do when your broke eh?that fuel line only leaked the one time it didnt have a clamp. I lost like $25 worth of gas. crazy thing though is that this happened at the dmv. I had to push my truck across the parking lot because with all the smokers in las vegas i was scared someone was going to accidentaly light me on fire. OH YEAH!!!! I'VE BEEN CIGARETTE FREE FOR 3 TO 4 MONTHS!!!!(thanks to the homie chef) and (lecig.com)
(important)
as far as the idle up valve (makes sense), no i didnt take it off, when i first got the truck a mechanic came to check it out and one of the things that happened is that white thing and spring flew off never to be found again..... she said she was going to replace it but its been over a year.......... but what really makes sense to me know is that when that happened/before i found out i had a cracked block. my truck used to idle at about 3000, like its doing now, and when i was at a stop light or something id have to turn my truck off because it felt like it was going to blow up,(i shift at about 4500 any way so thats only like 1500rpm of actually driving?) then id turn it back on and drive a way, and of coarse replacing the engine wouldnt fix that problem, but thats what its doing again, it revs up to about 3000 with the clutch out in neutral, while im in gear coasting, and i turn it off cause i feel uncomfortable letting it idle that high. and that really makes sense to why i feel like im loosing an obsene amount of gas.
so im hoping that idle up valve will fix my idling problem, then i just have to figure out whats going on with my loss of power, and of coarse, i cant go wheeling until i replace my shocks. especially my front two.... any one have any doners? ill pay for shipping
geeeees i so wish you were close man, can chill and work on both our rigs haha, that be sick!
I cannot be sure, Brandon.. but I would be willing to bet that that is a LARGE portion of your problem. (The Idle Up AC/PS Vaccum Assist Valve that is missing the screw and spring)..... If it's pulling in air, it's a pretty decent amount of "Unmetered Air"... Just like if you were to leave the intake plenum bolts really loose... air would be pulled in at the seal of the intake/plenum, and that would also be unmetered, causing HAVOC! (ALLLLL the air coming in your motor is "measured"/"Adjusted" by the >>>>>> "AIR FLOW METER" and other components.... >) The motor pulls in air through the plenum, AC VSV, VSV, Power Steering, Cruise Control(but all those are 'contained', and much of that vacuum/air is caused by combustion, PULLING air through the intake and out the exhaust, and those things/ac, etc./ are preset on the amount they allow in, according to the load whatever they run demands, ya feel me?)... and ... ALL of those things relay that 'they're on' to the ECU, .....which reads that 'metered' air, adjusts via other things it reads, like the 02, through the TPS and even the AFM.
I'm probably screwing some of that up!^^^But IT'S A PROBLEM to have unmetered air getting in, trust me! lol.
The Fuel pressure regulator is mechanical(works via vacuum through a diaphragm).... but it's connected to the VSV(the green and blue one). You might need to replace that fuel line, for one.... Find out why it's leaking, replace it(hose, whatever) and THEN move on to the rest. Leaking fuel is a BIG NO NO! lol.
I'm probably screwing some of that up!^^^But IT'S A PROBLEM to have unmetered air getting in, trust me! lol.
The Fuel pressure regulator is mechanical(works via vacuum through a diaphragm).... but it's connected to the VSV(the green and blue one). You might need to replace that fuel line, for one.... Find out why it's leaking, replace it(hose, whatever) and THEN move on to the rest. Leaking fuel is a BIG NO NO! lol.
i also just went out to try spraying starter fluid in there, to find out..... i have a dead batter? ughhh im gonna have autozone do there free little charging system check to see if it might be a positive battery cable or something, because i know the battery isnt dead and that alternator is brand new! ughhhhhhhhhh
08-15-2011, 11:39 PM
#60
NO, .... dont' replace the AC-VSV or FPR-VSV, .... The rear doesn't even connect to the Valve that I'm speaking of(the one I'm speaking of is the one with the screw and spring, that's missing.... The one he mentioned that you circled in the pic, in blue, ON THE ACTUAL PLENUM... K? Very rare for that VSV in the rear to go bad... The AC one? Yeah, lil more common, but all that would do is not allow it to idle up when your compressor kicks on...
Far as the valve on the plenum that I'm talking about... What might happen that could also explain a loss of power; When you have a vacuum leak, the ECU, Sensors, DO NOT LIKE THAT! lol..... But the AFM is only sending a message that "it's letting so much air in, depending on how much you depress the gas pedal, how much of a hill you're climbing(load).." And then there are other things involved that sometimes tell the fuel pressure regulator to stop LIMITING PRESSURE.... and let it FLOWWWWWWW! THAT is what the VSV is supposed to do, the one in the rear that goes to the FPR. It "CLOSES(?)" and pulls air against the diaphragm in the FPR, which stops the "PULSE" of the FPR(If you listen to the FPR with a scope, ...you can hear it 'clicking', somewhat like an injector.. Not the 'SAME', but you hear a "pulsating", nonetheless.).. Maybe that will help make a lil more sense of how some of these things work....(IF THAT'S WRONG, PLEASE, SOMEONE, SPEAK UP! LOL). 4Crawler deleted that VSV to the FPR... See, as long as the FPR is getting vacuum pulling on it, ...it's going to pulse. Thennnnn, ... when you take off, what does the vacuum pressure do at a certain point? DROPS OFF THE MAP! At idle, it's around 14-16" or so... When you get it to 2200rpm, it should be around 18-22"(these are just examples, I can't remember exactly what the numbers should be).... As you increase the RPM/floor it, the TBody opens wide, the AFM opens where it's supposed to, the combustion going on pulls most all of the vacuum you were reading on those lil ports and the vacuum gauge drops off the map.... I am guessing, but I think that's why Roger(4crawler) has deleted it and had no problems... See, once he's putting a load on it/flooring it.... it stops pulling vacuum on the FPR and allows FULL FUEL PRESSURE!
(hopefully didn't TOTALLY mess that up^^^^ lol.... it's been a while since I was neck deep in diagnosis... But I'm pretty sure it's close, and at least it will get you thinking/solving things out in your head, right? lol.)
One of the tests I told you, before, is to "Temp. delete the VSV to FPR".... You do this by taking the vacuum line that goes to the VSV off of the VSV, plug it right into the FPR(if it will reach), and just pull that other one off of the FPR and let it lay to the side. If it still behaves exactly the same, then YOU KNOW it's not the VSV that's the problem. (Remember, that VSV is supposedly only for "HOT SOAK" conditions).
FIRST THINGS FIRST, BRANDON>>>>>>>>>
Head to the junk yard and YOINK one of those vacuum valves off the plenum of a similar truck... ONE THAT HAS THE WHITE SCREW AND SPRING! lol. Until then, you might just try PLUGGING THE HOLE THAT THE SCREW GOES INTO..... Try that, first, before ANYTHING else, ok?
That vacuum leak could have nothing to do with the TPS behaving that way... the TPS may be, indeed, bad... But it could just be that it's at it's limits already, because of a huge vacuum leak... and thus, it's already maxing your system out/ORRRRRRR, maybe it's staying in an open loop(COLD), because it's sensing all this unmetered air. (Also remember, .... all that air?>>> THERE IS NO WAY for the system to 'adjust' it.... it's a leak, plain and simple. It's not like your AFM that has an ambient temperature cone in it... which also effects how much the flap in there opens, etc., .... Make sense?
Far as the valve on the plenum that I'm talking about... What might happen that could also explain a loss of power; When you have a vacuum leak, the ECU, Sensors, DO NOT LIKE THAT! lol..... But the AFM is only sending a message that "it's letting so much air in, depending on how much you depress the gas pedal, how much of a hill you're climbing(load).." And then there are other things involved that sometimes tell the fuel pressure regulator to stop LIMITING PRESSURE.... and let it FLOWWWWWWW! THAT is what the VSV is supposed to do, the one in the rear that goes to the FPR. It "CLOSES(?)" and pulls air against the diaphragm in the FPR, which stops the "PULSE" of the FPR(If you listen to the FPR with a scope, ...you can hear it 'clicking', somewhat like an injector.. Not the 'SAME', but you hear a "pulsating", nonetheless.).. Maybe that will help make a lil more sense of how some of these things work....(IF THAT'S WRONG, PLEASE, SOMEONE, SPEAK UP! LOL). 4Crawler deleted that VSV to the FPR... See, as long as the FPR is getting vacuum pulling on it, ...it's going to pulse. Thennnnn, ... when you take off, what does the vacuum pressure do at a certain point? DROPS OFF THE MAP! At idle, it's around 14-16" or so... When you get it to 2200rpm, it should be around 18-22"(these are just examples, I can't remember exactly what the numbers should be).... As you increase the RPM/floor it, the TBody opens wide, the AFM opens where it's supposed to, the combustion going on pulls most all of the vacuum you were reading on those lil ports and the vacuum gauge drops off the map.... I am guessing, but I think that's why Roger(4crawler) has deleted it and had no problems... See, once he's putting a load on it/flooring it.... it stops pulling vacuum on the FPR and allows FULL FUEL PRESSURE!
(hopefully didn't TOTALLY mess that up^^^^ lol.... it's been a while since I was neck deep in diagnosis... But I'm pretty sure it's close, and at least it will get you thinking/solving things out in your head, right? lol.)
One of the tests I told you, before, is to "Temp. delete the VSV to FPR".... You do this by taking the vacuum line that goes to the VSV off of the VSV, plug it right into the FPR(if it will reach), and just pull that other one off of the FPR and let it lay to the side. If it still behaves exactly the same, then YOU KNOW it's not the VSV that's the problem. (Remember, that VSV is supposedly only for "HOT SOAK" conditions).
FIRST THINGS FIRST, BRANDON>>>>>>>>>
Head to the junk yard and YOINK one of those vacuum valves off the plenum of a similar truck... ONE THAT HAS THE WHITE SCREW AND SPRING! lol. Until then, you might just try PLUGGING THE HOLE THAT THE SCREW GOES INTO..... Try that, first, before ANYTHING else, ok?
That vacuum leak could have nothing to do with the TPS behaving that way... the TPS may be, indeed, bad... But it could just be that it's at it's limits already, because of a huge vacuum leak... and thus, it's already maxing your system out/ORRRRRRR, maybe it's staying in an open loop(COLD), because it's sensing all this unmetered air. (Also remember, .... all that air?>>> THERE IS NO WAY for the system to 'adjust' it.... it's a leak, plain and simple. It's not like your AFM that has an ambient temperature cone in it... which also effects how much the flap in there opens, etc., .... Make sense?
