92ehatch

The hose is not factory but I'm also not sure where it came from. It was replaced due to the factory one being rubbed by the intake. This one also rubs on the intake. I did buy a new radiator hose for the bottom, it is a carquest but matches the top hose shape perfectly so you may try that.

i did rip out the windshield trim and have a plan on how i will replace it with universal. I'll do a writeup on how i do that when the time comes

92ehatch

So this weekend we had one nice day and i decided to take the truck outside and warm it up and set the ignition timing. The truck started on the second crank, which is awesome. After jumping the service connector the check engine light was blinking code 6. That code would have pointed me right to the ignitor wire issue i had.

anyway, the ignition timing i set by feel was way off. The timing light showed i had the timing set to 12 btdc. I set it to 5 as per the service manual and it would barely idle. So i raised the idle and checked again. Still at 5 btdc. I un jumped the connector and verified it was correct. 12 btdc, perfect. This fixed my misfire issue.

then i set out to clean the underside of the hood. Holy crap. I put 8 hours into scrubbing the 30 years worth of grime then another two scuffing the paint. Unfortunately i didn't get it painted because Sunday it was too cold.




I forgot to take pictures but i had a tag bolt break off and had to cut the welded nut off the tailgate and welded a new one in.

so Sunday i decided to test my harbor freight headlight restore kit on my van, good purchase for anyone wandering.

92ehatch

So i pord the inside where my weld seams are to help prevent future rust. There is not much you can do to battle it except coat it the best you can and hope. I'd love to say this truck will only see nice weather but that would be a lie.

i was surprised at how well the por seeped into the seams.




The por seeped up hill into this seam
This is outside a seam as well. Can't ask for better in my opinion.
I painted the underside of the hood. I ran out of paint on the second coat. There is tons of trash and it looks like hell. Don't know if I'm going to redo or not

92ehatch

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

The fresh paint really shows how much it has faded over the years. Looking more and more like a 4Runner again.

ladybugRC

Looks really great, man!
Did you manage to keep the POR off your skin? My kids call it that really permanent black paint because I had it on my hands for days...

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

that cardinal red looks sharp. i dig it.

92ehatch

i tried, laquer thinner takes it off pretty well. However it really really hurts when you get it under a separated thumb nail

Thanks, it's the original color garnet red metallic


started taping off for my epoxy and filler primer

92ehatch

Shot some epoxy followed with high build 2k primer.

yes it's heavy in one spot on the hood. There is a crease there and I'll need to block sand it out so i added a bit extra so i don't have to do it 6 times.

magnet18

Good luck with the paint job!

Are you just rattle canning it? Excited to see how it turns out, hoping to paint mine this spring as well

92ehatch

No rattle can. I painted the engine bay with single stage nason fulthane. The door jambs will also get fulthane.

the rest of the body is getting a base coat / clear coat in the factory garnet red metallic.

magnet18

Cool
Guess overspray isn't as bad as I would have thought from a gun then

RAD4Runner

+1
I would follow up with a seam sealer. That's where water is wicking from in mine.

92ehatch

So i worked on the rear fenders a bit. Tried to get the body lines back. I ended up taking most of the filler off. Seems wasteful but the way i was putting filler on, treating it as one panel was wrong. I need to test the rear add two, a top and small bottom panel. If you don't the body line gets lost in the filler and sanding.





i also picked up my ten day temp tag, put all the lights and wipers etc to get it street legal and took it down the road for the proper piston ring break in. I put fresh gas in the tank while out to dilute the year old gas. It started out a little sluggish with a horrible hesitation in low rpms, but after a few loaded runs with high vacuum slow downs it cleared right up and ran like a champ.

Im going to change the oil and take it to work Tuesday since the rain Monday wouldn't be good. I'll get it inspected and get a full tag.

magnet18

hope those lenses worked out for you!

flg8r22

iTrader: (1)

Body work is my favorite of the trades. Blow off with an air gun and you can go out in public. Turning wrenches on my oil leakers is horrible. Are you using any kind of guide coat or engineering fluid while doing your body work?

92ehatch

The lenses are far better than what i took off. I did re use my factory housings and kept the others as spares. They just about had their money's worth in bulbs. 8 bulbs at 5 bucks a 2 pack is 20 bucks worth of bulbs.

i have guide coat but haven't been using it for the filler. I've never done body work, only seen it done really. I gave up on doing the filler and will be taking it to my buddy who owns a body shop to have him finish shaping the rears. I have it fairly close but nothing beats a lifetime of experience.

92ehatch

Yesterday was beautiful, sunny 75 breezy. I took the runner to work for its first full drive. It ran great, except i have an exhaust leak right at the manifold. I put new gaskets on it so I'll have to make sure i tightened the bolts correctly. I also had a smell of coolant but couldn't see any leaks, will have to keep an eye on that.

I then got it inspected and will get my tag today or Friday. After that it's going to the shop to get the rear fenders straightened up and painted

92ehatch

Hey guys, if you don't tighten your exhaust studs from manifold to exhaust pipe it will leak.

just in case you forgot like i did

space-junk

iTrader: (1)

HAHAHA!!! dont you love little things like that?

heres another, if you dont tighten all your radiator hose clamps, it will leak like niagra falls all over the shop floor.