SqWADoosh

iTrader: (1)

Diesel swaps rule! Keep it up brother.

mtnloki

Well, I thought it may be time to update the status of the project. Cold weather and only having a carport has limited much of the work (I just don't like working on it for hours in freezing temps). What I have been doing is working on the engine. It has been completing taken down and now I'm in the process of rebuilding. With the exception of the block and crank, everything is new. I rebuilt the original head, but due to corrosion along the edge of the head gasket on two cylinders, I decided it would be wise to replace the head, so that has been built and has all new parts. The old head will probably be sold as is, the corrosion wasn't too bad, but I didn't want to be in some remote local and even if a slight possibility, and have a failure/blown head gasket. The connecting rods are quite nice, and are rated up to 500 hp, so that would allow quite a lot of boost.

Before the take-down:



Cleaned up and bare block:



Current state of rebuild:






The two heads are sitting in a box at the moment, and I will take some pictures.
I'm also debating if I will stick with this engine or if I sell the short block and turbo, I may go with a jdm toyota diesel ... so many options. If someone is looking for a strong 1.9 ALH engine, perhaps we may discuss a deal!

mtnloki

Well, time to do a quick update .. I have started to get a little bit done ...

The engine is all together, it turned out quite nice, but I am no longer sure if I want to do the VW TDI conversion. I think an diesel intended for truck use will have a better torque curve. If anyone is looking for a nice ALH TDI engine, let me know.




I also started doing some dent repair ... considering how crushed the areas were, I pulled the dents to close to original shape. I will be using some body filler to smooth out the areas. I am thinking about boxing the rear quarters to allow a custom bumper to be fitted. More pictures to follow as it is closer to completion.




Oh, I did mount 31x10.5x15s on it too ... eventually the entire vehicle will have a base of the tan color as is on the rims.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Really liking the progress. I do think the tdi will have enough torque for you but if you have you eye on a truck diesel the go for it.

I am having the engine debate as well. 22re rebuilt with rv head and 261 cam, 93 throttle body and plenum, supra AFM, Flame Thrower injectors, NWOR HEADER 2 1\4 cat back exhaust.
Or a fresh non turbo 2jz motor. The wiring is what scares me.

mtnloki

There is plenty of torque, but it is 1.9 liter, and designed for a car, so from everything I have read, the torque curve is not ideal for truck use. Additionally, I am still looking at another $530 for the mechanical injector pump (Otherwise ALH would require the computer, ignition, and instrument cluster from a VW), and an adapter plate for the trans. I could fab one, but with the flywheel mods required, I would be looking at another $500. I have a turbo, but it will have to be rebuilt. Lastly, well not exactly, the VW oil filter will need to be modified which is probably the easiest of the projects to get the engine converted. After all that, selling and getting a Toyota diesel makes more sense (at least to me) ... I have been reading about the 2L series and with attention to cooling and egr delete it appears to be a really nice little engine (I've been pricing heads due to the cracking problem). If I come into some money, Banks Power has a really nice V6 crate diesel that is a drop in with the computer self contained, it is coupled with a 6 or 8 speed automatic (I don't remember which), and I believe puts out around 350 ft-lbs. That would definitely make a difference.

mtnloki

Oh, something else ... the rubber on both sliders was showing age ... not cracking, but dried out and felt like it was shrinking a bit. I purchased a little bottle of Eastwood Rubber and Vinyl restorer. It really seems to have done the trick ... the rubber feels better and fit much better.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

I have wanted to put a Cummins 4bt motor in a Toyota forever. Torque monsyter that can handle virtually any boost you throw at it. But that's $$$$

mtnloki

I did a little fabbing today. The first stage in building a custom rear bumper is the frame inserts. Started as 2x3 1/4" tube. The top was cut back and two ends and top had 1/4"x1.5" bar welded in place. Then the connecting plates were welded. I still have to clean up the welds and splatter, then paint and add bolt holes. In the end, I will probably weld the pair into the frame rails since they will not have to be removed.







Also ordered Eastwood internal frame coating today, since it was on sale. From everything I have read, it appears to do a nice job coating the interior of the frame and providing corrosion protection.

mtnloki

I did a little work over the last week on the rear bumper ... still has a ways to go, will have a tire swing out and I will be relocating the license plate. It started with a 4"x4" 1/4" square tube. I welded the connecting plates, added the trailer hitch, and then in parts modified the lower profile. I did it in stages because any tubing has internal tension and if I had done a complete cut there would be some loss of the actual square shape.








I also welded the connectors to the frame, added a cross member and removed the spare tire carrier. Ultimately, I will add an box in the space created by removing the spare tire carrier, that is accessible from inside the truck.





I had planned to get quite a bit more accomplished, but with the 100 degree days for much of the previous week, welding just was not much of an option.

mtnloki

I did forget to mention, that I have not cleaned up the welds, but there will be some grinding in my near future.

There is still plenty to do on the bumper, but I do have a design vision.

jerusry

I think its a good idea to drop that motor and pick a truck diesel motor.looking forward to checking up on your build.I will be going with a 4bt when I someday have money to do a diesel swap. how are u liking those red body mounts? can.u tell a difference? mine are dying and need be replaced soon

mtnloki

I have not had the chance to drive on them but I have the complete prothane kit to replace all bushing, etc. Since I was doing the 1 inch body lift, it made sense to do the swap at that point. From what I have read, it is definitely a better option. The prothane complete kits are not expensive and make sense for the swap.