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Chrishf12, yeah I should try to at least run the clutch line and maybe mount up a clutch master cylinder as its definitely going to be easier to do that with the motor out. What year truck are you and your friend doing the swap on?
Well after not having much luck tracking down a cheap, used engine stand I started looking at new ones from harbor freight and Pep Boys as they were both offering large discounts for the holidays. I ended up ordering a 750 pound stand from Pep Boys Online as it was on sale, 35% off and it was supposed to be available for in store pick up the next day. Well, as you can probably guess I went in to the store next day and they didn’t have it. They couldn’t even tell me where it was. So after being MORE than patient and waiting a full week for them to “figure it out” still no engine stand. I go back to the store and found out that they canceled my order and didn’t tell me it was canceled. Due to a screw up on their computer systems the order was “somehow” lost. After having to place another order (for a different model stand mind you) I was able to pick it up same day. Oh and get this, they gave me a returned item that somebody had already opening, decided he didn’t want it and taped the box back together. I was initially worried if all the bolts would still be in the box so I went straight home and assembled it to verify all the parts were there. I got lucky as everything went together ok. Due to this experience I would like to caution others to never order anything online from Pep Boys.
Now that I got a stand and an engine crane lined up, I just have to build some new lift points as the rear lift point on my cylinder head had sheared off. I am thinking of getting some plate steel that is the size of the cylinder head, bolt it to the block via the head bolt holes, and weld on some lift points to the top of the plate steel.
Originally Posted by chrishf12
We are doing the manual swap on an '87 sr5 model.
Chrishf12, I have been doing some research into the manual transmission swap and was curious what transmission you are swapping in. the 87 4runner you are doing the swap on, is the motor a 22re? What manual trans are you going to use to swap out the auto with, the W56 or a R150?
chrishf12 is helping me do the swap in my 87 4Runner. We found a beat up 87 with good 22re engine and w56 transmission, and are swapping it over from that car. So far we have the pedals installed, clutch master cylinder holes drilled and installed, the hard line ran and a new slave cylinder. Still need to do the neutral jump and reverse light wiring make the shift tunnel larger and get the transmission installed.
Last edited by jrpsaros@gmail.com; 12-06-2016 at 05:06 PM.
Reason: 22re
chrishf12 is helping me do the swap in my 87 4Runner. We found a beat up 87 with good 22re engine and w56 transmission, and are swapping it over from that car. So far we have the pedals installed, clutch master cylinder holes drilled and installed, the hard line ran and a new slave cylinder. Still need to do the neutral jump and reverse light wiring make the shift tunnel larger and get the transmission installed.
Nice. The reason I was curious is I have heard of people using both the W56 and R150 transmissions behind the 22re. The W56 does seem to be the more common of the 2 to swap in though, seems to be more of them around.
Not sure how I missed this build but looks like you are making great progress. Good call on getting the heavy duty engine stand. Something I am learning a little late at this time. The transmission will swap from one to the other. Some will require you to modify the floor pan in some cases.
Not sure how I missed this build but looks like you are making great progress. Good call on getting the heavy duty engine stand. Something I am learning a little late at this time. The transmission will swap from one to the other. Some will require you to modify the floor pan in some cases.
Thanks Terrys87. I originally was just going to get the light duty engine stand, but due to the above mentioned difficulty at the store I ended up just getting the bigger stand as I knew they actually had one in the store and wouldn't have to wait to have one shipped to me.
I've been doing some research into the different types of transfer case styles and was wondering if you knew what the 1st gen 4runners came factory with; were they top shifted cases or were they forward shifted? I imagine this would affect how much you would need to modify the floor pan to make it work, depending on which case is swapped in.
84 yota dude, thanks for that link to the LCE page.
Thanks bruner, I have kind of been lagging on the motor rebuild as I had a friend who was bidding on a 94 single cab, 22re, 5speed, 4x4 pickup that he was going to do an V8 LS swap on and he was offering me the entire drivetrain for dirt cheap. The motor had just been rebuilt by Toyota with paperwork and only had 25,000 miles on the rebuild. This would have been the perfect drivetrain swap for my runner. Well, needless to say my buddy wasn’t able to get that truck so now I’m back to my plan of rebuilding the original motor. As far as the build goes I finally managed to clean the upper intake plenum. Damn, that was a heck of a time consuming process! I ended up using kerosene and carb/choke cleaner and a lot of elbow grease. I am reasonably happy with how it turned out.
I also was thinking more about my plan to make lift points for the block because the rear lift point on the cylinder head sheared off and have since reconsidered my strategy. I would end up having to purchase a bunch of grade 8 bolts and some plate steel. After seeing the price of steel and grade eight hardware at the local stores I quickly realized that this wouldn’t be cost effective. So instead I went back to brainstorming and came up with a different idea. I decided to just buy one grade eight bolt to attach my lift point to the exhaust port of the cylinder head. Now all I had to do was slap my old gasket back on the block, drop the cylinder head back on, bolt it down and BAM, my motor is ready to be pulled, all for a grand total of $3.50.
I also decided to remove the oil baffle from inside the valve cover to thoroughly clean out all the gunk that has collected there over the years. This required drilling the heads off the pressed in pins, removing the baffle, and then drilling out the remaining part of the pins. I am currently in the process of trying to tap the holes for bolts to remount the baffle with new gasket to the valve cover.
I am hoping to get the motor pulled out by this weekend, assuming everything goes according to plan.
Well, I was finally able to get a hold of an engine crane and pulled my motor about a week ago. I’ve started the process of stripping it down to the bare block and cleaning it up to get it ready for the machine shop. I quickly found out that the main bearings were just as bad as the rod bearings. Each bearing had deep grooves worn into them and most of the bearing surface was worn away down to the copper backing. Serious neglect and dirty oil killed this motor. I also think I figured out where my large oil leak was coming from; A combination of a failing rear main seal and the rear plug on the valve cover.So now the hunt for reputable machine shops in my area has begun! I’m trying to research shops that have experience rebuilding imports and preferably, Toyota's. If anybody has a shop that they’ve had decent work done at in the Southern California area, I would like to hear your suggestions.
Dang definitely worn! A member on here chefyota4x4 is a So Cal guy and I believe he has used a shop called perfect engine in the LA area.
Thank you 84 yota dude for the name of that shop. I started looking at their website and it seems like they know their Toyota's as they offer full rebuilt kits with premium brand parts like NPR and OSK. It would be a bit of a drive to get to LA for me, but might be worth it to have a reputable shop do the work.
11-28-2016, 04:43 AM
