trevorthetrekker's 1982 Trekker
05-26-2012, 02:40 PM
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trevorthetrekker's 1982 Trekker
My 1982 Toyota Trekker when we rolled her in the yard in early 2009.
What the funk have I gotten myself into this time?
Before me it was owned by my good friend who bought it around 2000 in Fresno, CA for $500. Neither the seller or my friend knew what it was, like most people. One day around 2004 it wouldn't start, so he just let it sit there.
Here I come in 2009. I open up the air cleaner, to find half an old sandwich. Apparently someone was working on it after a few beers, and kinda forgot something. Under the valve cover, the valves were completely covered in a white gooey protein-like substance. The 22R wouldn't turn over with a 36" breaker bar on the crankshaft. Apparently the head gasket blew and allowed water and oil to mix. After that, it sat for 5 years. Yeah, that's not getting rebuilt.
First thing I did was rip off the single front off-road light and the hideous 60 lb. steel roof rack on the fragile fiberglass shell. There are very small stress cracks coming from the mounting holes. I don't want them to get any worse.
There is rust throughout the cab, including holes in the floor pan and the cab supports are basically non-existent. The passenger floor pan hole was repaired with a license plate and expanding insulation foam. Yes, seriously.
I am a certified aircraft mechanic, so stuff like this makes my brain hurt a little bit. However, after working on the Trekker for the last 3 years has made me more accepting of these fixes. I would like everything to be perfectly aligned with no holes and no leaks, but ya know what? So what? It works. It is a vehicle that moves and is paid off (just sold the last vehicle I will ever finance, what a relief!). Plus I love fixing things, and the Trekker breaks all the time!
Anyway, so I cover up the existing holes in the rust and Great Stuff[sup]TM[/sup] with more Great Stuff[sup]TM[/sup].
Still 2009. I finally realize how much work the Trekker needs.
She waits...
What the funk have I gotten myself into this time?
Before me it was owned by my good friend who bought it around 2000 in Fresno, CA for $500. Neither the seller or my friend knew what it was, like most people. One day around 2004 it wouldn't start, so he just let it sit there.
Here I come in 2009. I open up the air cleaner, to find half an old sandwich. Apparently someone was working on it after a few beers, and kinda forgot something. Under the valve cover, the valves were completely covered in a white gooey protein-like substance. The 22R wouldn't turn over with a 36" breaker bar on the crankshaft. Apparently the head gasket blew and allowed water and oil to mix. After that, it sat for 5 years. Yeah, that's not getting rebuilt.
First thing I did was rip off the single front off-road light and the hideous 60 lb. steel roof rack on the fragile fiberglass shell. There are very small stress cracks coming from the mounting holes. I don't want them to get any worse.
There is rust throughout the cab, including holes in the floor pan and the cab supports are basically non-existent. The passenger floor pan hole was repaired with a license plate and expanding insulation foam. Yes, seriously.
I am a certified aircraft mechanic, so stuff like this makes my brain hurt a little bit. However, after working on the Trekker for the last 3 years has made me more accepting of these fixes. I would like everything to be perfectly aligned with no holes and no leaks, but ya know what? So what? It works. It is a vehicle that moves and is paid off (just sold the last vehicle I will ever finance, what a relief!). Plus I love fixing things, and the Trekker breaks all the time!
Anyway, so I cover up the existing holes in the rust and Great Stuff[sup]TM[/sup] with more Great Stuff[sup]TM[/sup].
Still 2009. I finally realize how much work the Trekker needs.
She waits...
05-26-2012, 02:41 PM
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In Summer 2011 I finally gathered the cash to put into the Trekker. Also, I had access to an engine hoist and two engine stands, so I knew it was time. It was a California truck so I immediately ripped out all of the emissions. I cut out all wires which were emissions related. I ended up scrapping all the wires and got about $10 in copper! The radiator was thrashed, took that out. Hired a few friends with some beers, and ripped the poor ol' 272,000 mile 22R from it's host in a few hours. Probably would have only taken an hour or less, but beer was involved. Is it possible to work on a Toyota without beer?
Hey!
Bought a rebuilt 22R long block from B&M Engine Service on SE 77th and Foster in Portland, OR. I had never bought from them but I heard they had a good reputation.
Hired the same friends using, unfortunately, the same quantity of beer as during the removal. It didn't help we started at like 6:30pm, so by the time the engine was aligned with the transmission it was pitch black. My friends decided to puss out, but I kept going with my headlamp, and got all of the mounting bolts in and tightened. Many celebratory beers ensued.
The day after we dropped the engine in is the first day I met TrekkerPaul! We had met through Craigslist since I was selling all the old parts I didn't need. I still need to get over to your house one of these days! I have more spare time again, so hopefully sometime soon.
My other friends with 4 cylinder Datsuns and Toyotas all said: WEBER. I did my research, saw the Weber 38 DGAS, and was immediately in love. No fancy progressive linkages, instead, two beefy synchronous gears. Best of all - manual choke. I feel like I'm in an aircraft again!
Opted for a new exhaust manifold since they are less prone to leakage and usually better for low end torque than headers.
I had the original intake manifold media blasted to clean it up, since I would be using Redline adaptor plates ( >
more on these later >) to mount the Weber.
While the engine was being swapped I took off the grill, bumper, and bezels to give them all a quick spray of paint.
Well it's getting late so that is all for tonight. Tomorrow I will post another post with recent projects, problems, and new pictures!
Trevor
Hey!
Bought a rebuilt 22R long block from B&M Engine Service on SE 77th and Foster in Portland, OR. I had never bought from them but I heard they had a good reputation.
Hired the same friends using, unfortunately, the same quantity of beer as during the removal. It didn't help we started at like 6:30pm, so by the time the engine was aligned with the transmission it was pitch black. My friends decided to puss out, but I kept going with my headlamp, and got all of the mounting bolts in and tightened. Many celebratory beers ensued.
The day after we dropped the engine in is the first day I met TrekkerPaul! We had met through Craigslist since I was selling all the old parts I didn't need. I still need to get over to your house one of these days! I have more spare time again, so hopefully sometime soon.
My other friends with 4 cylinder Datsuns and Toyotas all said: WEBER. I did my research, saw the Weber 38 DGAS, and was immediately in love. No fancy progressive linkages, instead, two beefy synchronous gears. Best of all - manual choke. I feel like I'm in an aircraft again!
Opted for a new exhaust manifold since they are less prone to leakage and usually better for low end torque than headers.
I had the original intake manifold media blasted to clean it up, since I would be using Redline adaptor plates ( >
more on these later >) to mount the Weber.While the engine was being swapped I took off the grill, bumper, and bezels to give them all a quick spray of paint.
Well it's getting late so that is all for tonight. Tomorrow I will post another post with recent projects, problems, and new pictures!
Trevor
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05-26-2012, 07:04 PM
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Oh yeah I saw his Trekker years ago when I first started this project.
Well, the plan is to drive her back to New Jersey in August. For now, repairs are highly prioritized.
First on the repair list is tires. The ones on there are dry rotted, and I'm surprised they haven't blown yet. Since I'm poor, I'm most likely going to end up getting some decent used tires, either 31 x 10.5 R 15 or 32 x 11.5 R 15. Hopefully I find a good deal on Craigslist.
Once the rain lets up for more than 12 hours (was sunny 30 minutes ago, now it's thunderstorming) I need to waterproof the rear windows somehow. I also need to replace the windshield.
Next would be clutch. I really want to get the Marlin Crawler HD 1200 lb., but with a price tag of $220, I think I might go the cheap route for now. I'm going to throw in a Marlin Crawler L52 once this one dies anyway, so I'll get it then!
The three cheapest clutches I have found are Exedy, Sachs, Brute Power, and Duralast. Any brand preferences?
After that I am going to do a super quick paint job, just to decrease the cop magnet factor. I'm thinking about using the Rustoleum Marine system: fiberglass primer for the rear, metal primer for the cab, and topside topcoat. Roll on, sand, repeat. The key here is CHEAP but not city.
If there is time and money before the trek, I'd really like to do new shocks, leaf springs, bushings, tie rod ends, rear bearings, and knuckle rebuilds. I'm not looking to go crazy, this is a piece of history, not a crawler. I still will have tons of fun with her in the woods!
She does need a cab swap, pretty badly.
Eventually I want to build my own propane injection system, using just an Impco vaporizer / regulator and whatever parts I end up putting together. This gets higher on the priority list, now that fuel in Portland just hit $4.20 again. Propane is like $2.
Just a cluckton of tiny things.
Well, the plan is to drive her back to New Jersey in August. For now, repairs are highly prioritized.
First on the repair list is tires. The ones on there are dry rotted, and I'm surprised they haven't blown yet. Since I'm poor, I'm most likely going to end up getting some decent used tires, either 31 x 10.5 R 15 or 32 x 11.5 R 15. Hopefully I find a good deal on Craigslist.
Once the rain lets up for more than 12 hours (was sunny 30 minutes ago, now it's thunderstorming) I need to waterproof the rear windows somehow. I also need to replace the windshield.
Next would be clutch. I really want to get the Marlin Crawler HD 1200 lb., but with a price tag of $220, I think I might go the cheap route for now. I'm going to throw in a Marlin Crawler L52 once this one dies anyway, so I'll get it then!
The three cheapest clutches I have found are Exedy, Sachs, Brute Power, and Duralast. Any brand preferences?
After that I am going to do a super quick paint job, just to decrease the cop magnet factor. I'm thinking about using the Rustoleum Marine system: fiberglass primer for the rear, metal primer for the cab, and topside topcoat. Roll on, sand, repeat. The key here is CHEAP but not city.
If there is time and money before the trek, I'd really like to do new shocks, leaf springs, bushings, tie rod ends, rear bearings, and knuckle rebuilds. I'm not looking to go crazy, this is a piece of history, not a crawler. I still will have tons of fun with her in the woods!
She does need a cab swap, pretty badly.
Eventually I want to build my own propane injection system, using just an Impco vaporizer / regulator and whatever parts I end up putting together. This gets higher on the priority list, now that fuel in Portland just hit $4.20 again. Propane is like $2.
Just a cluckton of tiny things.
05-26-2012, 07:10 PM
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Yeah definitely nice to have this little niche going on. I love that there's always something to tinker on if I'm bored, yet it still runs great and drives awesome. Minus the zero traction thing due to dry rotted tires.
What did you end up doing about your floor rust, a cab swap? I was thinking as a temp fix before my cab swap, cutting out the rust, welding in some support where the cab mounts, then covering it up with some sheet metal. I definitely want to do it right, I just don't have the means right now.
What did you end up doing about your floor rust, a cab swap? I was thinking as a temp fix before my cab swap, cutting out the rust, welding in some support where the cab mounts, then covering it up with some sheet metal. I definitely want to do it right, I just don't have the means right now.
Last edited by trevorthetrekker; 05-26-2012 at 07:17 PM. Reason: Wrong name
05-27-2012, 04:11 AM
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http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...ew-clutch.html
]I JUST ORDERED MINE. they run big tires and gears with this clutch and it seems to hold up well.
]I JUST ORDERED MINE. they run big tires and gears with this clutch and it seems to hold up well.
05-27-2012, 05:06 AM
#11
What did you end up doing about your floor rust, a cab swap? I was thinking as a temp fix before my cab swap, cutting out the rust, welding in some support where the cab mounts, then covering it up with some sheet metal. I definitely want to do it right, I just don't have the means right now.
Paul has a motor home he is cutting up, I think the floor is good, maybe hit him up soon before it gets scrapped
05-27-2012, 09:15 AM
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http://www.davezoffroadperformance.c...ew-clutch.html
]I JUST ORDERED MINE. they run big tires and gears with this clutch and it seems to hold up well.
]I JUST ORDERED MINE. they run big tires and gears with this clutch and it seems to hold up well.
Found this, although it's for 2005+ Tacomas, it makes me a little weary of Luk: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/61...-tsb-info.html
It seems that the correct Aisin part number for the 1981 - 87 22R clutch kit is CKT-024. I could be wrong. There's one on eBay now for $120 + free shipping. That's where I got the compatibility info, so that's why I said, I could be wrong. I don't even know if it's real now because I've read that Aisin doesn't even make clutches anymore, they become ASCO. So, I dunno, my brain is starting to hurt from so much clutch research. Does anyone know of ASCO part number or cheap dealer?
I know Marlin sells kits with "better" bearings and Seco disc for $220, but I'd rather try the OEM Aisin / ASCO kits, save the $100, and buy a new flywheel with that. Plus sticking with a design that hasn't been revised once since they started making them appeals to me. Gotta love old trusty designs. The 22R, solid axles, aircraft design from the 40's - 60's, etc. That stuff was meant to last. Nowadays we engineer to fail, so you need to buy another someday. And people wonder why we're entering the "GREAT RECESSION"? Sorry, off topic again.
05-31-2012, 09:27 AM
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05-31-2012, 09:34 AM
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I used Rustoleum Universal, but it's already starting to fade. I was in a rush so I just cleaned it off, gave it a quick sand, and maybe two coats. Eventually I'll get everything media blasted and coated with some real paint!
06-16-2012, 03:39 PM
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Just a little update, last weekend the Trekker got a new clutch, slave cylinder, and master cylinder. It did not fix the grinding sound I've been having for a while. I'm about to get a sound recording of it and post it in the tech section.
I'm going to to a cheap paint job soon, but choosing a color is so hard. I'm stuck between the original sand color, white, black, dark green, dark blue, or dark brown. Any recommendations?
I'm going to to a cheap paint job soon, but choosing a color is so hard. I'm stuck between the original sand color, white, black, dark green, dark blue, or dark brown. Any recommendations?
06-18-2012, 08:47 PM
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Today was a long day. A few days ago I bought a set of 4 wheels; 4Runner alloy wheels with 31" BFG AT's that are about 40 - 50% tread, for $200.
Since I'm poor, I decided to try to change the tires myself, without any fancy equipment. I started by removing and deflating all the wheels. Then I drove over the sidewalls to break the beads, which took a lot of Windex®. Lube makes everything better! Using a tire pry bar, a crowbar, and yet more Windex®, I got all the tires off. I lightly wire brushed the rust off the original steel wheels, but didn't go to town because when I can afford to buy new tires, I will have the wheels media blasted and powder coated. Also I knew I was going to scratch the sharts out of the rims when I went to install my "new" BFG's, so I decided to wait on paint. For now.
Got the BFG's on the steel wheels, but how do I seat the beads? I have seen plenty of people successfully use starting fluid to seat beads, but they also had air compressors to fill up the tire before the air had a chance to cool and create a vacuum. I only have a $7.00 emergency compressor from Harbor Freight. Hey, times are tough.
After shopping around I found a place that would inflate and balance all 4 for $20. If I had brought them all 8 wheels and had them do the work, they would have charged $100+. Sweet! I saved $80 by doing 4 hours of work. Too bad they stole two of my chrome valve stem caps!
Stopped by Freddy's on the way home to pick up a spray can of black primer and another in satin black totaling $9. Masked off the tires and sprayed two coats of primer and three coats of black. Still had some black leftover, so I went to town on the read brake drums, leaf springs, and rear bumper.
Here is the result:
Does anyone want to buy four Toyota T 15 x 7JJ-8 DOT, offset 8, 6 on 5.5" wheels?
Once I sell them, I will be buying a gallon of Rustoleum for the body. I need some help choosing the color. I'm stuck between black, white, sand (original color), dark green, dark brown, or dark blue. I'd like to choose a color that is best for hiding the MANY flaws in the bodywork, as well as having the least amount of "cop magnet" factor. Any recommendations?
Time to drink a few beers then pass out.
Since I'm poor, I decided to try to change the tires myself, without any fancy equipment. I started by removing and deflating all the wheels. Then I drove over the sidewalls to break the beads, which took a lot of Windex®. Lube makes everything better! Using a tire pry bar, a crowbar, and yet more Windex®, I got all the tires off. I lightly wire brushed the rust off the original steel wheels, but didn't go to town because when I can afford to buy new tires, I will have the wheels media blasted and powder coated. Also I knew I was going to scratch the sharts out of the rims when I went to install my "new" BFG's, so I decided to wait on paint. For now.
Got the BFG's on the steel wheels, but how do I seat the beads? I have seen plenty of people successfully use starting fluid to seat beads, but they also had air compressors to fill up the tire before the air had a chance to cool and create a vacuum. I only have a $7.00 emergency compressor from Harbor Freight. Hey, times are tough.
After shopping around I found a place that would inflate and balance all 4 for $20. If I had brought them all 8 wheels and had them do the work, they would have charged $100+. Sweet! I saved $80 by doing 4 hours of work. Too bad they stole two of my chrome valve stem caps!
Stopped by Freddy's on the way home to pick up a spray can of black primer and another in satin black totaling $9. Masked off the tires and sprayed two coats of primer and three coats of black. Still had some black leftover, so I went to town on the read brake drums, leaf springs, and rear bumper.
Here is the result:
Does anyone want to buy four Toyota T 15 x 7JJ-8 DOT, offset 8, 6 on 5.5" wheels?
Once I sell them, I will be buying a gallon of Rustoleum for the body. I need some help choosing the color. I'm stuck between black, white, sand (original color), dark green, dark brown, or dark blue. I'd like to choose a color that is best for hiding the MANY flaws in the bodywork, as well as having the least amount of "cop magnet" factor. Any recommendations?
Time to drink a few beers then pass out.
Last edited by trevorthetrekker; 06-18-2012 at 08:53 PM.
11-16-2012, 12:40 PM
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A quick bit of sanding, a roll of painter's tape, and 13 cans of Rustoleum Universal later...
Also thanks to TrekkerPaul for swapping his slider windows for my solids!
Next up: T100 front brakes, Zuk mod (add coil springs to rear suspension)
Also thanks to TrekkerPaul for swapping his slider windows for my solids!
Next up: T100 front brakes, Zuk mod (add coil springs to rear suspension)
