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I bought their 2100 Series Hurricane System with electronic controls.
Here is a pic of the inside unit plumbed up through the firewall
On the engine bay side. The downward lines are for a/c, the upward facing line are going to the heater control valve. You also can see a new Weber 32/36 carb and fuel pressure regulator installed
Forgot to mention that before installing parts in the cab, I sprayed 3 coats of Boom Mat sound dampener and insulator. Will be spraying more when the time comes in the doors, back, floor pan and roof. Stuff sprays good, will hold off on how well it works.
I used some 1 3/8" rubber firewall plugs to plug the old heater holes.
Here is how I installed the condenser. The one that came with the kit was just to big to fit under the cross member like I wanted. Had to fab and weld the hard lines to fit through the original holes in the cross member panel
I'm installing an aluminum radiator to take up the slack due to the install of A/C. It's a 2 row horizontal flow, 22"wx19"h. So to that end, I decided to weld a lower mount across the frame.
Here you can see how it looks, during mock up. As you can tell, I'm in the middle of a total rewire using a 21 circuit harness from EZ Wiring. Well you are pretty well caught up on this build status. Thanks for any input or experiences you might what to share.
so .. I guess you don't have a heater anymore .. correct ? or is this also a heater ?
The inside box has separate heater and A/C cores. If you look at the pic above you can see 4 lines. The upper and lower are a/c and the two centers ones are for the heater
Still working in getting the Toyota switching on column married to the new wiring harness. Oh so much fun 👎
k .. that's what I was thinking .. just wanted to confirm .
if you wouldn't mind sending me a list of part #'s of your purchase .. I want to do this as well . please , and thanks
To share more information on the A/C system that I'm installing, here is a list that I purchased. I'm sure there are other makers that offer aftermarket units, but this not to take away from them. I'm not affiliated with Old Air Products, I chose them due to price and being located just 65 miles from them.
There are options that you can look at to meet your needs, but this is basically what I came up with to fit into 1st gen. cabs.
Here goes:
CAP-2100 - 2100 Series complete package, which has electronic controls
Option of line exit - side exit to use with firewall fitting. The other option was thru the back of case, but routing would be PITA
Option - part # 51-1102 Standard defrost
Option - part # 45-0114B electronic controls. I thought that it would look good with the color scheme I was going with. It would also go into the stock slide control are, with a little dash modification but didn't research that for fit. As you can tell, from past dash pics, I decided to put it into a POD under the dash
Option - Lovers and vents. There are many options here, just goes with what you like. Since the defrost configuration has 4 outlets for venting and 2 vertical for defrost, I chose to run them this way. Of the four, the 2 outside one will go to the ball vents on each side of the dash. The 2 center ones would go to the rectangle vent that took the place of the old slide control. The ball vents I chose were 2" part #32-13, the 2" rectangle vent was 45-1603. You will need to modify the stock defrost vents, reference my pasts post
The POD I used was Part # 32-25
Option - Sanden Compressor- part # K-21-4510P This has a polished finish with V belt. They will give you a universal mounting plates to build your mount. I didn't use them, so built my own mount.
Option - Drier part # 21-321. you can buy others, but cost goes up
Condenser - I originally got the 12"x23"x1", part # 11-1223. Problem was that I couldn't fit it between the opening in front of the radiator, where a stock one would fit. So I looked around and found one I thought would work. It is made by Universal Air Conditioner, part# Cn7007C. It is 11"x20"x1.5" .. You can see how I mounted it, in the past post. Had to mod and build my hard lines, as I wanted to route through the stock punched holes in the radiator support cross member.
Bypass Heater Control Valve part # 50-1555
2" Vent hose comes with kit, but tell you want 2"
The kit comes with a lengths of A/C and water lines.
Option - Bulkhead fitting. I chose part# 45-1443, which is square, but there are two more to chose from. An inline 4 or a diamond 4 fitting. This fitting will allow hookup through the firewall, as you can see in my past posts
Also bought Push-on water fittings for the heater, part# 50-0735
With all the modding and parts, I thinks I'm running around $1400 for this install, but that fit into my budget. If you go with this package or another one, this list should give you an idea what a system entails. Hope it helps you and future installers.
hope it inspires other of a needed mod, especially here in Texas
Here is our kitchen table, with spread out wiring diagrams, FSM, testers and tools. So much fun trying to get combo switch married to new wiring harness. �� But I'll get there
YaaaaHoooo, finally got my combo switch repaired and rewired. Used some Painless wiring connectors to get the wiring switched over to my new wiring harness. The only thing on the combo switch I didn't use was the headlight on/off wiring, since I decided it was easier to use an aftermarket GM headlight switch for the headlight/tail light wiring. Plus there were no connectors I could find that had 20 circuits, and didn't want to cut the stock connector of the old wiring harness.
Had to repair the hazard switch, as the top of the lug was broken off. Used some plastic from an old guitar pick guard, super glued, drilled new hole and screwed the lever to the switch.
Hey ya'll. Due to Photobucket crap, I'm going to try and rebuild the pics in this thread, as time goes on. If you have questions or want any pics in my posts, PM me with your e-mail address and I'll upload them to you.
01-25-2017, 11:59 AM
