Dan.3

You can use any 5vz you want. Just make sure the harness and computer are from the same vehicle. Oh and something i learned....stay away from the 99 4runner LIMITED ecm. It doesnt like to start unless you have the security key and hardware from the same truck. get the trans from that t100 too. it will make things alot easier espeicially when you dont really know what you are doing

Ryan31783

You're right about that ...those are the main differences i have encountered with this swap. I should have worded it "3VZ" instead of OBDI and "5VZ" instead of OBDII, but everything else is accurate. In my swap there were 4 ECU plugs, most of the wires you don't modify in any way.

(just going from memory here, not looking at my diagrams ...E, F, G, and H plugs are manual plugs, A, B, C, D are for automatic) In my swap you have to add/splice a couple wires to the large plug "H" for a sensor or two to work, in the tacoma there was a wire that was in the body wiring harness and in my truck i needed to run it with the engine harness. The second "G" and third "F" plug were completely unmodified, they went directly from the ECU to the engine, and I had to track down the 4th plug in the salvage yard. The 4th plug "E" has things such as B+, BATT, CEL, A/C wires to the idle-up VSV, and a larger gauge (a size or two larger than the rest) wire that goes to the starter relay, all in all there were 10 wires that I had to add to the plug (your swap may vary). Then there are 2 body wiring harness connectors IK1/IK2 on the tacoma and IH1/IH2 on my 4runner, they take care of some of the signals to the combination meter (4x4, water temp, oil pres, tach), then there are some wires that carry a "switched +" signal (key on) for "FC" from the circuit open relay, to the injectors and coils, to the AFM, VSV's and o2 sensors. It also has some wires going to the 4x4 actuator if yours is 4x4, and a couple grounds. There were about 23 wires in IH1/IH2 that I had to repin/splice/add, and about 12 wires going into the ECU ...or about $20/wire (manual swap, there are more wires for the automatic swap) if you had ORS do the work

You're also right about being able to repin everything, but like you said it could end up being a huge headache if you did end up going that way, istead of 35 or so wires, it would be more like 80, along with dealing with a third wiring diagram ...to me it wouldn't be worth it if you could possibly find a complete engine/herness/computer

syber_kowboy

I think that is your best bet bro. That's the route I'm going. It may be a pain in the butt b/c we are both doing auto's but in the long haul you'll end up with a better Yota.

76ANTHONY

WELL HERES WHERE I STAND the 3.4 swap is just as wiring confusing as the 1uzfe swap is. now the 1uzfe swap would be awesome, but there is some tranny work and i have to make motor mounts, both are pretty simple as i see it. then theres the cooling system, but if done right, you can use the rad and a/c condensor from the 3.slow and 60 more horses than the 3.4 swap. and the 1uzfe swap is cheaper, now im right fricken back where i started.

scuba

1uzfe

76ANTHONY

WHY JERRY? it really looks just a little more confusing than the 3.4 swap and you get more power and with that tranny it seems it would be smoother shifts too. i do no offroading so i think for a mall crawler, as its called, it would be awesome....