Bumpin' Yota

Actually shoes, yes the 3vz-fe heads will work. There is a HUGE thread on it here. It requires a LOT of different parts but it is 100% workable; just a huge PITA.


And to the guy that replied to my 1400 figure; when I finish up the bottom end rebuild I can garuntee you that my 3vze = 5vzfe, if not completely exceed it....when normally aspirated. Lets just say 250hp wont be enough........

shoes138

you would need different pistons.......to make it work........ n i dunno what kind of water pump you use........

thefallman

the 3vzfe water pump the blocks are the same.

just the mounting hardware and application is different.

i find 250 at the very top end of what a N/A 3.0 with out variable valve timing would be capable of. You just cant rev the thing high enough and make power up there with out it.

On the other hand the same amount of work to a 3.4 would produce that easy because of the differnce in the heads.

you have to be going to run a large amount of compression to get that out of a 3.0. 10:1 at least.

thefallman

btw here the 3vze modified to 3vzfe thread

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...rebuild-35794/

there is pictures of the finished engine floating around somewhere on this board i just didnt find them again last time i saw them was august of 06' anyway its been done and i almost did it myself but i found my 3.4 for cheap so i just did a swap.

CoedNaked

That's great, but most guys don't want to go to THAT much trouble or hassle to get power out of a 3vze. My original post mentioned 3 modifications that as a team, would probably satisify a lot of aspiring swappers, with their 3.0's. But then somehow the guys who put the blood, sweat, and tears into a 3.4 swap got all offended and had to get on the justification bandwagon and take pot shots at the 3.0 sort of like the guys who did SFA swaps realizing they never really maximized or outdid their IFS but went SFA anyways.

shoes138

well im doing a turboed 3vz-e with the help of Mr. Weazy

matt9111

I think the 3VZE is a wonderful motor, the 3.4 is a waste of time and money.

A full exhaust, high flow intake, headers, cams, valves, and you will far surpass a stock 3.4 and for much less effort, time and money.

I drive my 3VZE to work everyday and then drive the work trucks which all have the 5VZFE's in them and the difference is noticible but by no means worth a swap....

Just my 2cents

breknraj

I wouldn't go as far as to say offended. Everyone's situation is different, and decisions and compromises have to be made when you decide to take on a project with the magnitude and scope of a complete engine rebuild or a swap.

I my case, I don't have a garage, and I didn't feel that I could do a proper rebuild - primarily because I didn't feel that I would stand a chance of keeping the engine internals clean during the build. That being said, it meant that I would have to get a re-built or re-manufactured engine to start with.

I quickly found that a quality re-whatever was going to be some pretty big money, plus shipping. Now I had been OK with the 3.0. While no fire-breather, it had gotten the job done for me for 15 years, but with a replacement looking to be so expensive (and all of the junk yard ones I saw were 150K miles, or more - no thank you), it got me to thinking about a swap.

I didn't really consider a SBC, because I feel that that is more engine than the truck needs, and a push-rod engine just seems like a giant step backward, to me. I knew that the 5VZ was the same family of engine as the 3V, so I started looking into what would be entailed in doing that. That is what led me here to Yotatech in the first place.

I started looking into the costs involved in finding a 3.4 to swap, and found that I could probably pull that off for not a lot more than getting a re-man.

I was lucky enough to find a rolled '02 Taco in a western slope town, that I was able to pick up MUCH cheaper than I could have, had it been in Denver. It only had 67K miles on it, so I felt that it would give me a good service life.

Living at very high altitude, the idea of having some more power, and possibly better gas milage was pretty appealing, as was keeping it all Toyota, so this is the route I decided to take. I also got a nice set of wheels and an e-locker out of going this way!

So I have lived life with both engines in good condition (got my '90 in '91 with 38K), and I have been very happy with my decision to go with the 3.4. For my personal situation, it is a far superior engine that is easier to work on, and it scoots the truck along through this thin air quite nicely!

Knowing what I do about both engines, I have a better truck for my purposes and situation, now, than I did in '91, when I first got it. I would have been satisfied with another 3.0, in good shape, but I am truly happy with the 3.4 sitting under the hood.

I'm not trying to be defensive about my decision to do the swap. I'm just trying to give a thumbnail decription of why I came to the conclusion that it was the best solution for me.

thefallman

Same here breknraj

And to me it actually seems more like CoeD is the one who is being defensive every time we give good reasons for a 3.4 swap citing costs of upgrades to the 3.0 and such he comes back and tries to discount them and tell us we are being defensive when we are just citing our reasons and reasons that seem that if someone thought it out would be fairly common for a swap.

I can see why you would upgrade the topend on a 3.0 if you were doing a head gasket job or had the head off for another reason. But if your doing a full rebuild its cheaper to go with a 3.4 especially if you can do the wiring your self. Every situation is Individual and what that person decides is best for him/her. All the 3.4 guys are saying is that that dissision was the best under the circumstances they were in and even if with the other options the 3.0 still wasnt enough engine for them. All these options CoEd is talking about have been available for several years thru several differnt companies. We just feel that they werent worth the money spent. Btw you might get the power out of a 3.0 but you wont ever get the milage just because of the tech and mostly 2 valves instead of 4 valves.

Bejiita

Im an old fanished kid I guess. I would do a SBC. And you dont have to worry about ripping sh@t apart. Get a stock 305 or even a 350 low low horsepower with tons of low end torque. 4LO and an auto tranny with a toyota body would be a 'go anywhere' vehicle. And when people think you will break stuff they probably think of SBC in terms of 12 second car motors. A stock 350 out of a K series truck will never make 200 horsepower but can come close to 330FT LBS of torque all at the bottom. My truck doesnt make torque until 3400 according to factory ratings while as a chevy could make it probably half that speed and when your turning that slow you dont have a big chance of breaking things. I have seen bellhousing kits to drop a SBC right in. Everything bolts right in all you might need is a bigger radiator. Stock difs, stock Tranny, stock T-Case. Yeah if you want to keep it Toyota I completely understand, I have a 300 horsepower SBF sitting in my garage that could have gone into my RX7 for half the cost of a new rotary but hey I wanted to keep it original with a rotary engine still so I know where your coming from. Sorry Im just ranting on and on but when my motor goes I will not rebuild my 13MPG 3.0 or even consider spending the huge amounts of money on a 3.4 swap it will be getting a V8.

pkt1213

iTrader: (1)

Actualy it'd be the torque that rips things apart. Although hp is a function of torque. Torque is the actual twisting force that's applied.

69 1/2 Six PAck Bee

How do you pass the "sniffer"" here?

thefallman

oh and why do people keep saying that a swap is more expensive then a rebuild with extra hp parts.

can you totally rebuild a 3.0 with xtra hp parts to get more then a 3.4 for less then 2500.

i dont think so.

Lenne

does the motor mounts match up or is it a hard thing to swap...
i saw yotamans post on his swap... i know enough about honda's
and there I4's but not about V6's in my 4runner...

Bumpin' Yota

I never said that the 250+ was going to be NA, just that when my 3vze is NA it will easily equal if not exceed a NA 5vzfe. Once a snail finds its way in the engine bay, things will be quite exciting!

RobD

I snipped a big chunk of his reply out. I wanted to focus on a couple of his key points, mainly saying that I agree with his reasoning. I, too, had to decide between rebuild or swap and felt that, in my case, the rebuild was going to take way too much time and money and, since this is my daily driver, I couldn't afford either. I had 8 days to swap (took me a couple more, but that was my fault), including a long weekend in there. I couldn't have had the machine work done in that time. My engine was tired, plain and simple. I have more power, more simply, than doing any work to the 3.0. That's why I did it.

If you want to mod your 3.0, go for it and enjoy yourself. Learn and have fun doing it. It wasn't feasible for me.

Stop trying to defend your 3.0 bias. You came in here looking for opinions on modding a 3.0 vs a 3.4 swap. You've got them and most of them are of a different opinion, which you clearly don't like. If you don't want to know the answer, don't ask the question.

That's all I have to say about that.

RobD

The swap is very easy, mechanically. You would take the oil pan, dipstick tube, and motor mounts from the 3.0 and bolt them to the 3.4. You use a clutch, pressure plate, and pilot bearing (assuming you have a 5 speed) from the 3.4 and a throwout bearing from the 3.0. The bellhousing bolts up directly to the 3.4, even though you don't think it will at first. I got lucky in the fact that my 3.4 engine came with the alternator, power steering pump, starter, and A/C compressor intact. I had it pretty easy with that stuff.

Check my previously posted links for more details.

Bumpin' Yota

I do enjoy reading your posts as they are very logical and straight forward, but Im afraid I must disagree with you on that point. I did a top end rebuild, shipping my heads across the country, my cams across the northern border, and still came in under 1400 bux total cost.

Now note that Ted at engine builder found that 1mm oversized valves, a port and polish, and headers gave the 3vze 30 rwhp...without a camset change! Throw in a set of cams and wham you now have a MUCH better engine that should be in the realm of 200hp or so.

While I dont have a set of headers, I have to say my truck has tons of power compared to before, and honestly would run right next to a FJ cruiser from a 30mph roll. (Took one for a test drive last weekend - was not impressed to tell ya the truth...the seats were uncomfortable as hell!) From a dig I'd obviously get killed as that 4.0 has an arse ton of tq right off idle AND full time awd.

RobD

It's the goofy windshield that you can't see traffic lights at, plus the goofy back doors that make it impossible to let rear seat people out without getting out yourself...

Oh, and the storage area...I can sleep in the back of my 4Runner on the platform I made. You want to try that in an FJ?

Long live the 4Runner.

Bejiita

Well I must say the 3.4 is a good motor I have never droven one or been in one but my friend just got a 96, one year newer then mine. And its all bone stock and in a drag race she beat me by at least 10 truck lengths, and she cant drive to save her life and said she was sand bagging it. Obviously my truck has way more tire to push then some 29s but it was a very impressive display of power.