87 22r to 3.4, here goes nuthin! swap
04-16-2012, 04:56 PM
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87 22r to 3.4, here goes nuthin! swap
Hey all
Well, I've been lurking around on here and pirate for several years now, all while tooling around the country in my 86 4Runner, with a diesel 2lt-II swapped into it (previous owner conversion). Started wrenching on that thing, got a few decent mods done, but wanted to get my hands dirtier and really do some wrenching, so I picked up an 87 4Runner with a blown 22r in it for next to nothing, and found a good price on a 3.4 from a 96 4Runner. Has 128 000 miles on it, timing belt last replaced at 98 000. Came with an R150f tranny, wiring harness, motor mounts, transfer case, and a bunch of other goodies. I know this isn't the easiest swap in the world, and will require me to really figure some wiring out, but I'm not scared - I'll take my time, read a lot, ask a lot of questions (prolly some dumb ones) and see if I can't make it through. Also SASing it as well as a few other odds and ends. Definitely a bit of a newb, but not a complete one - have done some wrenching, although not tons, but can weld no problem, and do driveway fab alright. Here's the usual stuff I weld on (this one is my buddy, but pic is baddass - the second one is all of us gettin after, racing the tide! I'm bottom right):
Here's the initial pics:
Blown ugly 22r - this thing had lost a hose, then been driven over a mountain next to Las Vegas in the middle of summer (PO had his ailing mother in the truck and didn't want to stop in the heat). He made it home, but with the truck knocking and clanging like a sonofabitch. Then it sat for 9 years, till I grabbed it:
Engine bay looking better:
IFS gone:
New engine, tranny, other goodies:
Side shot of the Runner:
Transmission:
Alright, now for my first two dumb questions.
1)Can ya'll confirm, this is the R150f, correct? Gonna replace the clutch etc. while it's out.
2) Where are ya'll getting timing belt kits from these days? A good kit, all inclusive. Been searching away and have found a bunch, but don't want to buy a cheapo - any recommendations?
3) Alright, 3 questions - where are the best sources to order actual print copies of the FSM and wiring diagrams? I have the online ones bookmarked, but I'd like actual print copies.
Over the next few days I'm going to be collecting more parts - chevy springs for the rear, so I can use the rears up front, and the 3.0 oil pan, pickup, and dipstick tube stuff. Anything else I should be grabbing? Thanks in advance,
Spruce
Well, I've been lurking around on here and pirate for several years now, all while tooling around the country in my 86 4Runner, with a diesel 2lt-II swapped into it (previous owner conversion). Started wrenching on that thing, got a few decent mods done, but wanted to get my hands dirtier and really do some wrenching, so I picked up an 87 4Runner with a blown 22r in it for next to nothing, and found a good price on a 3.4 from a 96 4Runner. Has 128 000 miles on it, timing belt last replaced at 98 000. Came with an R150f tranny, wiring harness, motor mounts, transfer case, and a bunch of other goodies. I know this isn't the easiest swap in the world, and will require me to really figure some wiring out, but I'm not scared - I'll take my time, read a lot, ask a lot of questions (prolly some dumb ones) and see if I can't make it through. Also SASing it as well as a few other odds and ends. Definitely a bit of a newb, but not a complete one - have done some wrenching, although not tons, but can weld no problem, and do driveway fab alright. Here's the usual stuff I weld on (this one is my buddy, but pic is baddass - the second one is all of us gettin after, racing the tide! I'm bottom right):
Here's the initial pics:
Blown ugly 22r - this thing had lost a hose, then been driven over a mountain next to Las Vegas in the middle of summer (PO had his ailing mother in the truck and didn't want to stop in the heat). He made it home, but with the truck knocking and clanging like a sonofabitch. Then it sat for 9 years, till I grabbed it:
Engine bay looking better:
IFS gone:
New engine, tranny, other goodies:
Side shot of the Runner:
Transmission:
Alright, now for my first two dumb questions.
1)Can ya'll confirm, this is the R150f, correct? Gonna replace the clutch etc. while it's out.
2) Where are ya'll getting timing belt kits from these days? A good kit, all inclusive. Been searching away and have found a bunch, but don't want to buy a cheapo - any recommendations?
3) Alright, 3 questions - where are the best sources to order actual print copies of the FSM and wiring diagrams? I have the online ones bookmarked, but I'd like actual print copies.
Over the next few days I'm going to be collecting more parts - chevy springs for the rear, so I can use the rears up front, and the 3.0 oil pan, pickup, and dipstick tube stuff. Anything else I should be grabbing? Thanks in advance,
Spruce
Last edited by spruce; 04-16-2012 at 04:57 PM.
04-16-2012, 05:49 PM
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Answered the best I can below, but I'm sure someone else will also check in.
Alright, now for my first two dumb questions.
1)Can ya'll confirm, this is the R150f, correct? Gonna replace the clutch etc. while it's out.
No help on this one...
2) Where are ya'll getting timing belt kits from these days? A good kit, all inclusive. Been searching away and have found a bunch, but don't want to buy a cheapo - any recommendations?
I bought mine from http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-To...4627153&sr=1-1
All components appear to be high quality, but mine swap hasn't run yet so time will tell. 1sttoyotaparts and toyota of dallas are quite reasonable for oem parts.
3) Alright, 3 questions - where are the best sources to order actual print copies of the FSM and wiring diagrams? I have the online ones bookmarked, but I'd like actual print copies.
Most people download it from tis. I was luck and was able to find some people that had the years I needed. Once you have the digital files you can simply print the pages you need.
Over the next few days I'm going to be collecting more parts - chevy springs for the rear, so I can use the rears up front, and the 3.0 oil pan, pickup, and dipstick tube stuff. Anything else I should be grabbing? Thanks in advance,
Spruce
1)Can ya'll confirm, this is the R150f, correct? Gonna replace the clutch etc. while it's out.
No help on this one...
2) Where are ya'll getting timing belt kits from these days? A good kit, all inclusive. Been searching away and have found a bunch, but don't want to buy a cheapo - any recommendations?
I bought mine from http://www.amazon.com/Timing-Belt-To...4627153&sr=1-1
All components appear to be high quality, but mine swap hasn't run yet so time will tell. 1sttoyotaparts and toyota of dallas are quite reasonable for oem parts.
3) Alright, 3 questions - where are the best sources to order actual print copies of the FSM and wiring diagrams? I have the online ones bookmarked, but I'd like actual print copies.
Most people download it from tis. I was luck and was able to find some people that had the years I needed. Once you have the digital files you can simply print the pages you need.
Over the next few days I'm going to be collecting more parts - chevy springs for the rear, so I can use the rears up front, and the 3.0 oil pan, pickup, and dipstick tube stuff. Anything else I should be grabbing? Thanks in advance,
Spruce
04-16-2012, 07:52 PM
#3
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Hey all
Well, I've been lurking around on here and pirate for several years now, all while tooling around the country in my 86 4Runner, with a diesel 2lt-II swapped into it (previous owner conversion). Started wrenching on that thing, got a few decent mods done, but wanted to get my hands dirtier and really do some wrenching, so I picked up an 87 4Runner with a blown 22r in it for next to nothing, and found a good price on a 3.4 from a 96 4Runner. Has 128 000 miles on it, timing belt last replaced at 98 000. Came with an R150f tranny, wiring harness, motor mounts, transfer case, and a bunch of other goodies. I know this isn't the easiest swap in the world, and will require me to really figure some wiring out, but I'm not scared - I'll take my time, read a lot, ask a lot of questions (prolly some dumb ones) and see if I can't make it through. Also SASing it as well as a few other odds and ends. Definitely a bit of a newb, but not a complete one - have done some wrenching, although not tons, but can weld no problem, and do driveway fab alright. Here's the usual stuff I weld on (this one is my buddy, but pic is baddass - the second one is all of us gettin after, racing the tide! I'm bottom right):
Here's the initial pics:
Blown ugly 22r - this thing had lost a hose, then been driven over a mountain next to Las Vegas in the middle of summer (PO had his ailing mother in the truck and didn't want to stop in the heat). He made it home, but with the truck knocking and clanging like a sonofabitch. Then it sat for 9 years, till I grabbed it:
Engine bay looking better:
IFS gone:
New engine, tranny, other goodies:
Side shot of the Runner:
Transmission:
Alright, now for my first two dumb questions.
1)Can ya'll confirm, this is the R150f, correct? Gonna replace the clutch etc. while it's out.
2) Where are ya'll getting timing belt kits from these days? A good kit, all inclusive. Been searching away and have found a bunch, but don't want to buy a cheapo - any recommendations?
3) Alright, 3 questions - where are the best sources to order actual print copies of the FSM and wiring diagrams? I have the online ones bookmarked, but I'd like actual print copies.
Over the next few days I'm going to be collecting more parts - chevy springs for the rear, so I can use the rears up front, and the 3.0 oil pan, pickup, and dipstick tube stuff. Anything else I should be grabbing? Thanks in advance,
Spruce
Well, I've been lurking around on here and pirate for several years now, all while tooling around the country in my 86 4Runner, with a diesel 2lt-II swapped into it (previous owner conversion). Started wrenching on that thing, got a few decent mods done, but wanted to get my hands dirtier and really do some wrenching, so I picked up an 87 4Runner with a blown 22r in it for next to nothing, and found a good price on a 3.4 from a 96 4Runner. Has 128 000 miles on it, timing belt last replaced at 98 000. Came with an R150f tranny, wiring harness, motor mounts, transfer case, and a bunch of other goodies. I know this isn't the easiest swap in the world, and will require me to really figure some wiring out, but I'm not scared - I'll take my time, read a lot, ask a lot of questions (prolly some dumb ones) and see if I can't make it through. Also SASing it as well as a few other odds and ends. Definitely a bit of a newb, but not a complete one - have done some wrenching, although not tons, but can weld no problem, and do driveway fab alright. Here's the usual stuff I weld on (this one is my buddy, but pic is baddass - the second one is all of us gettin after, racing the tide! I'm bottom right):
Here's the initial pics:
Blown ugly 22r - this thing had lost a hose, then been driven over a mountain next to Las Vegas in the middle of summer (PO had his ailing mother in the truck and didn't want to stop in the heat). He made it home, but with the truck knocking and clanging like a sonofabitch. Then it sat for 9 years, till I grabbed it:
Engine bay looking better:
IFS gone:
New engine, tranny, other goodies:
Side shot of the Runner:
Transmission:
Alright, now for my first two dumb questions.
1)Can ya'll confirm, this is the R150f, correct? Gonna replace the clutch etc. while it's out.
2) Where are ya'll getting timing belt kits from these days? A good kit, all inclusive. Been searching away and have found a bunch, but don't want to buy a cheapo - any recommendations?
3) Alright, 3 questions - where are the best sources to order actual print copies of the FSM and wiring diagrams? I have the online ones bookmarked, but I'd like actual print copies.
Over the next few days I'm going to be collecting more parts - chevy springs for the rear, so I can use the rears up front, and the 3.0 oil pan, pickup, and dipstick tube stuff. Anything else I should be grabbing? Thanks in advance,
Spruce
2. My timing belt was recently replaced at Toyota before the lady wrecked her Runner so I have not had to replace. If I was however, I would just get all Toyota stuff personally from here. http://www.toyotapartsales.com/partl...?siteid=214074
3. You may find a manual on Ebay but I would take the TIS route also or ask some guys here. There are some people that have those and then print them out.
4. If you are going with a straight axle do not get the 3.0 pan. You want to go with the T100 2x4 pan and pickup, etc. to clear the axle.
You are going to need to fab up some motor mounts but I am sure you knew that.
Fun project. I will be watching close as a friend is thinking about 3.4 swapping into his 85 RUnner with a 22R. Looking forward to checking yours out as you go.
04-16-2012, 08:44 PM
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Cool, thanks for the info folks. Another question - when replacing the timing belt/water pump etc. just how much is it wise to replace? Going off of this list, all OEM, ordered from toyotapartsales.com, the total is $459.56. Ugh! One of the cheaper kits, or not doing everything in there would sure be nice on the wallet... what do the 3.4 swap experts have to say?
Spruce
Spruce
04-16-2012, 09:46 PM
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I went ahead and changed everything behind the timing belt cover that could wear out; my motor came from a '96 4Runner with ~125,000 miles. The way I see it, its a little more money now, but all that maintenance will be tons easier with the engine on a stand than with it in the truck.
I took the quote from Toyota of Dallas into one of the local dealers and they matched as best they could but it was still $540 +tax for everything, but I'd rather keep the business local.
I definitely recommend the TIS route; yeah, you'll need to spend a couple hours downloading everything you can (Electrical Wiring Diagrams (EWD) and the repair manual for at least the donor) but it makes searching really easy and depending on how many PC's and USB sticks you copy the files to, its a lot harder to loose them.
And welcome and good luck with your build.
I took the quote from Toyota of Dallas into one of the local dealers and they matched as best they could but it was still $540 +tax for everything, but I'd rather keep the business local.
- Timing Belt
- Water Pump
- Crank oil seal
- Cam oil seal (2x)
- Idler pulley
- Tensioner pulley
- Tensioner
- Thermostat
- A/C drive belt
- Alt drive belt
- Power steering drive belt
I definitely recommend the TIS route; yeah, you'll need to spend a couple hours downloading everything you can (Electrical Wiring Diagrams (EWD) and the repair manual for at least the donor) but it makes searching really easy and depending on how many PC's and USB sticks you copy the files to, its a lot harder to loose them.
And welcome and good luck with your build.
04-18-2012, 09:31 AM
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Cool. Thanks for the info - kinda what I was thinking, whether I wanted to hear it or not. Slowly wrenching at the moment, but need to sell my little diesel 4Runner to make it happen. Can't post in the classifieds yet, cause I don't have enough posts here. Got it on several other forums though, and when I can post it here, I will, if it's not gone first. If interested, shoot me a pm. Photos and some explanation are here:
http://imgur.com/a/P2WNc
Got a ton of info for those interested. Lemme know,
Spruce
http://imgur.com/a/P2WNc
Got a ton of info for those interested. Lemme know,
Spruce
04-28-2012, 06:58 PM
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Hey - for anybody watching this, I'm in the middle of my timing belt/water pump swap at the moment, and have a quick question. My old water pump was put in place using FIPG, and this is what my FSM calls for. There was no gasket. There is a groove the whole way around the mounting surface. My new water pump, which came direct from a Toyota dealership, has a gasket, and a totally flat mounting surface. So what gives? Do I have the wrong water pump? Do I use it with the gasket and no FIPG? I'm thinking not to use both... Any ideas?
Thanks,
Spruce
Thanks,
Spruce
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04-28-2012, 07:12 PM
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Quick follow up - I google searched and came up with a couple of hits - apparently older pumps had the groove and used FIPG, and new ones have no groove and use the gasket only. I guess I'll go with this, unless anyone has any advice to do something different???
Spruce
Spruce
05-12-2012, 02:30 PM
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Alright folks, need some help:
Over the past couple of weeks I've been tinkering away - got the rear axle shaved and installed an e-locker, swapped on my chevy springs, reenforced the rear end, swapped timing belt and everything else in there, built my front spring packs and started on a new front drop crossmember to hopefully get my axle where I want it and shackle angles good - photos to come later. But my current problem is this: I ordered a bunch of parts from Davez offroad, including a new clutch and flywheel. The clutch I got looks great. The flywheel however, is a totally different size - the flange is thicker, so I would need longer bolts to make it work, but it's overall 'height' ie. if you lay it flat on a bench, is less than that of my original flywheel. Also, my new throwout bearing is significantly shorter. If you stack everything up - flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, then throwout bearing, there's about an inch difference in height. The clutch fork has a throw that's barely over one inch - I think I have some wrong parts here - maybe wrong flywheel and throwout bearing? Can anyone confirm this? I'm about 8 seconds away from just throwing the old gear back in and calling it good - I'll replace it later on down the road if it dies on me. Here are some photos - can anyone confirm/advise me what to do?
Any ideas?
Spruce
Over the past couple of weeks I've been tinkering away - got the rear axle shaved and installed an e-locker, swapped on my chevy springs, reenforced the rear end, swapped timing belt and everything else in there, built my front spring packs and started on a new front drop crossmember to hopefully get my axle where I want it and shackle angles good - photos to come later. But my current problem is this: I ordered a bunch of parts from Davez offroad, including a new clutch and flywheel. The clutch I got looks great. The flywheel however, is a totally different size - the flange is thicker, so I would need longer bolts to make it work, but it's overall 'height' ie. if you lay it flat on a bench, is less than that of my original flywheel. Also, my new throwout bearing is significantly shorter. If you stack everything up - flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, then throwout bearing, there's about an inch difference in height. The clutch fork has a throw that's barely over one inch - I think I have some wrong parts here - maybe wrong flywheel and throwout bearing? Can anyone confirm this? I'm about 8 seconds away from just throwing the old gear back in and calling it good - I'll replace it later on down the road if it dies on me. Here are some photos - can anyone confirm/advise me what to do?
Any ideas?
Spruce
05-13-2012, 10:06 AM
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Putting out the next fire... Slapped the engine and trans together, and then dug through the parts boxes that came with all the other engine stuff, and discovered I don't have the bottom brackets/cover plate which bolt the bottom of the block to the bellhousing. So, the bottom of the flywheel is just exposed to the elements this way. Does anyone know if A) These brackets are the same off a 3.0? (My junkyards don't really have 3.4s) Can I just pull it all off something at the junkyard? and B) If I can't get it from the junkyard, does anyone have part numbers and or spares? Thanks,
Got the engine mounts fabbed - it's all ready to drop in - I would like to take care of this before dropping it in however, just for accessibility. But, we'll see...
Spruce
Got the engine mounts fabbed - it's all ready to drop in - I would like to take care of this before dropping it in however, just for accessibility. But, we'll see...
Spruce
05-13-2012, 10:12 AM
#12
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If you are taking about the stiffeners that bolts from the bell to the side of the motor I never installed mine.
If you are talking about the thin flat inspection plate that closes up the flywheel I never installed that either. On the to-do list but haven't gotten around to it. Sas is this next weekend so I'll probably do it then.
If you are talking about the thin flat inspection plate that closes up the flywheel I never installed that either. On the to-do list but haven't gotten around to it. Sas is this next weekend so I'll probably do it then.
05-13-2012, 11:40 AM
#13
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most people do about a 2in body lift to clear this egnine but thats in the 2nd gens with the 3.0, have you checked your clerence from the hood to the top of the motor? just another grimlin to tackle while everythings out. dont know if a 22re is taller then the 3.0, figured it would be smaller
05-13-2012, 01:05 PM
#14
For motor mounts I have carefully cut the pads off of a 3.0 frame and after removing the 4cyl ones, reweld them to frame using the motor to help line them up. Here is the basic run down for a 4 cyl swap;
Pull motor tranny,
cut old motor mounts off frame
replace the parking brake cable with 3.0 style to move speedo cable and parking brake cable lower on firewall
Install 3.0 transmission using 3.0 crossmember
bolt engine to transmission-no clutch installed for mock up.
tack weld engine mounts in place
remove engine and fully weld the mounts in.
fully furnished motor goes in minus upper intake
Use 3rz fuel filter and fuel lines to bolt in fuel system
use a combo of 3.4,3.0 heater hoses depending if there is rear heat in 4runner (also switch to newer heater control valve for more clearance.
Finish exhaust,
run wires blah blah blah.
for the clutch stuff, you will need to keep either all 3.0 stuff(flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate throwout, starter)
or run 3.4 stuff mix (3.4 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, starter, and 3.0 throw out)
You must run the 3.0 throw out regaurdless your clutch setup.
I have also noticed that the 3.0 clutch slave is longer than the 22r/re clutch slave.
some people with the tach in the dash have the adjustable pontimiter which allows them to get the tach working with just a few clicks. Other wise swap to a v6 cluster with a tach and do the resister mod to the tach to get it working. Don't forget to install the 3.0 oil pressure switch from a 94ish 3.0 so it has the correct plug for the 3.4 harness. Otherwish the 3.4 sending unit will fry your guage.
Pull motor tranny,
cut old motor mounts off frame
replace the parking brake cable with 3.0 style to move speedo cable and parking brake cable lower on firewall
Install 3.0 transmission using 3.0 crossmember
bolt engine to transmission-no clutch installed for mock up.
tack weld engine mounts in place
remove engine and fully weld the mounts in.
fully furnished motor goes in minus upper intake
Use 3rz fuel filter and fuel lines to bolt in fuel system
use a combo of 3.4,3.0 heater hoses depending if there is rear heat in 4runner (also switch to newer heater control valve for more clearance.
Finish exhaust,
run wires blah blah blah.
for the clutch stuff, you will need to keep either all 3.0 stuff(flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate throwout, starter)
or run 3.4 stuff mix (3.4 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, starter, and 3.0 throw out)
You must run the 3.0 throw out regaurdless your clutch setup.
I have also noticed that the 3.0 clutch slave is longer than the 22r/re clutch slave.
some people with the tach in the dash have the adjustable pontimiter which allows them to get the tach working with just a few clicks. Other wise swap to a v6 cluster with a tach and do the resister mod to the tach to get it working. Don't forget to install the 3.0 oil pressure switch from a 94ish 3.0 so it has the correct plug for the 3.4 harness. Otherwish the 3.4 sending unit will fry your guage.
05-14-2012, 04:49 AM
#15
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for the clutch stuff, you will need to keep either all 3.0 stuff(flywheel, clutch disk, pressure plate throwout, starter)
or run 3.4 stuff mix (3.4 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, starter, and 3.0 throw out)
You must run the 3.0 throw out regaurdless your clutch setup.
or run 3.4 stuff mix (3.4 flywheel, pressure plate, clutch disk, starter, and 3.0 throw out)
You must run the 3.0 throw out regaurdless your clutch setup.
I think that he needs all TACO clutch components.
05-15-2012, 03:38 AM
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I am putting a 3.4 and r150 from a taco in my 85 runner in place of my 22re. If you have any questions pm me. I have a thread on pirate where I'm doing somewhat of a build thread. It is a pain in the ass to make hte drivers side cross over work with our frame and the drivers side slave cylinder but can be done.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...1062193&page=2
My hood clears fine w/no body lift. Right now I'm in wiring fun land lol. I'm running 3.4, r150, inchworm adapter, crawl box, marlin adapter, 4.7 t-case.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...1062193&page=2
My hood clears fine w/no body lift. Right now I'm in wiring fun land lol. I'm running 3.4, r150, inchworm adapter, crawl box, marlin adapter, 4.7 t-case.
05-20-2012, 07:30 PM
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As it sits now,,,
Been tinkering away here and there - here's the progress.
Finished fabbing the engine mounts, burned em in, and got the engine installed for hopefully the last time (probably won't be). Transmission is just held up by a ratchet strap at the moment - I'll be running duals and fab up a crossmember or maybe buy the Sky one.
Got the chevy's fully done, but waiting on a U-bolt flip kit to hang the axle. Tried to use the oem U-bolts, and with some grinding could have got it to work, but I didn't want to do that. Ordered the kit, and as soon as it gets here it'll be hung.
Shaved the rear dif, and installed my e locker - not wired up yet. Gonna try and figure out a decent cable option - the chilkat one is sweet, but way too rich for my blood. Hopefully will come up with something without destroying the motors - I'd rather be able to sell them.
I drilled the holes for the shackle tubes a while back and finally got around to burning them in. They ended up being so far forward that the shackles hit the body mounts - nothing a grinder and BFH couldn't fix.
I'm running rears up front to help get the axle forward. As such, getting springs/bushings to work with a standard front crossmember was a pain. Your standard rears from I think 84ish on have a 14mm bolt. A standard Trail Gear drop front crossmember uses 18mm bolts. I didn't want to scab on plates with 14mm holes especially, and as far forward as I've been hoping my axle would be, I don't think that crossmember would have been the greatest anyway. So, I fabbed one up - kinda ugly, but it'll work. Still need to box in the ends, and trim/reenforce the back part of the hanger. Got that welded up, and hung the axle housing
Next, need to install my birfs, knuckles, rotors, then finally wheels, and it'll be rolling again! At this point that's my main goal - get it rolling, cause I'm most likely going to have to move here soon. I might not even install the birfs yet, cause I need to take it all apart anyway to install my e-locker up front. For now it needs to be rolling more than it needs that locker though. A couple pics:
Oh yeah - I talked to the guy who originally pulled this motor and trans. It came from a 96 4Runner which rolled on it's side in an accident. The transmission may have been swapped out or something at some point, to explain the slave on the drivers side, or maybe they came that way sometimes??? In any case, this all came from the same Runner at some point. I got the exhaust to fish down through on the drivers side - it's tight, but I don't think it'll burn up the slave - gonna add a bunch of heat shielding to be sure.
Anyone know the deal with the stiffeners which got from the bottom of the block to the bottom of the trans? And the inspection plate? They have been lost at some point - anyone know of a source? Or know if ones from a 3.0 will work? Thanks,
Spruce
Finished fabbing the engine mounts, burned em in, and got the engine installed for hopefully the last time (probably won't be). Transmission is just held up by a ratchet strap at the moment - I'll be running duals and fab up a crossmember or maybe buy the Sky one.
Got the chevy's fully done, but waiting on a U-bolt flip kit to hang the axle. Tried to use the oem U-bolts, and with some grinding could have got it to work, but I didn't want to do that. Ordered the kit, and as soon as it gets here it'll be hung.
Shaved the rear dif, and installed my e locker - not wired up yet. Gonna try and figure out a decent cable option - the chilkat one is sweet, but way too rich for my blood. Hopefully will come up with something without destroying the motors - I'd rather be able to sell them.
I drilled the holes for the shackle tubes a while back and finally got around to burning them in. They ended up being so far forward that the shackles hit the body mounts - nothing a grinder and BFH couldn't fix.
I'm running rears up front to help get the axle forward. As such, getting springs/bushings to work with a standard front crossmember was a pain. Your standard rears from I think 84ish on have a 14mm bolt. A standard Trail Gear drop front crossmember uses 18mm bolts. I didn't want to scab on plates with 14mm holes especially, and as far forward as I've been hoping my axle would be, I don't think that crossmember would have been the greatest anyway. So, I fabbed one up - kinda ugly, but it'll work. Still need to box in the ends, and trim/reenforce the back part of the hanger. Got that welded up, and hung the axle housing
Next, need to install my birfs, knuckles, rotors, then finally wheels, and it'll be rolling again! At this point that's my main goal - get it rolling, cause I'm most likely going to have to move here soon. I might not even install the birfs yet, cause I need to take it all apart anyway to install my e-locker up front. For now it needs to be rolling more than it needs that locker though. A couple pics:
Oh yeah - I talked to the guy who originally pulled this motor and trans. It came from a 96 4Runner which rolled on it's side in an accident. The transmission may have been swapped out or something at some point, to explain the slave on the drivers side, or maybe they came that way sometimes??? In any case, this all came from the same Runner at some point. I got the exhaust to fish down through on the drivers side - it's tight, but I don't think it'll burn up the slave - gonna add a bunch of heat shielding to be sure.
Anyone know the deal with the stiffeners which got from the bottom of the block to the bottom of the trans? And the inspection plate? They have been lost at some point - anyone know of a source? Or know if ones from a 3.0 will work? Thanks,
Spruce
