Racer

Well been workin on it constantly. I have came to the conclusion it's not wiring anymore. Either the ecu is bad or timing belt on wrong. Has compression in all cylinders tho

SacRunner

Just so I don't have to go digging through all your posts to find the scattered info, let me ask a couple of questions:

• What year, make and options did the MOTOR come from?
• What year, make and options did the ECU come from?
• Are all the sensors and injectors correct for the ECU you have?
• Are you just not getting fuel into the cylinders?
• Do you have spark (consistently)?

Have you gone through all the diagnostic steps as outlined in the FSM for your ECU?
An example for a 2002 4Runner, look at the links beginning "R.M. 2002:: Diagnostics: Engine (5VZ-FE):" http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/repair.html

If you really think your ECU is bad, find your equivalent of http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...zfe/terecm.pdf and check all the terminals of the ECU. After discovering my issue, if you had to re-pin any of the ECU connectors, double/triple/etc check that you numbered (and more importantly, wired) them correctly; the EWD numbers the connectors as if you were plugging them into your eye.

List of symptoms: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...g5vzfe/pst.pdf

ECM power circuit: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...e/ecmpower.pdf

Fuel pump control: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...e/fuelpump.pdf

Igniter circuit malfunction (no spark): http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...fe/cip1300.pdf

There is a ton of diagnostic step-by-step information in the FSM, go through everything for your application, if you find anything that doesn't match what the FSM says to expect, dig deeper into that and hopefully you'll find your issue. One thing I've picked up debugging/diagnosing/looking for a problem over the last few years (generally having nothing to do with cars) is that the longer you spend on a problem, the more work you put into it, the harder it is to find, the simpler the actual problem really is and typically the simpler the solution is.

Good luck, this trouble shooting/diagnosis isn't easy but if you break everything down into smaller problems or smaller circuits and follow the procedures already outlined and written down for you, it'll go a lot smoother.

Racer

Thank you very much. I will look it all over. Motor is from a 2001 4runner auto 4x4 or so he said but has 3 wire throttle body. ECU is from 2001 Tacoma manual 4x4. I know I'm not getting fuel into cylinders but it is at the injectors. I have some kind of spark to OCCASIONALLY kick it over on starting fluid. Complete engine harness is from a 1997 t100. Everything clipped to the motor sensors ect...also repined the MAF.

Racer

I got it fired!! Runs awesome! Just exhaust and some other minor things left. Thanks guys for all the help!!

dntsdad

Are you seriously going to post that it now runs and not include what the issue was for future searchers?

Racer

The crank and can sensors on the 97 t100 harness had individual ground wires. On the 2001 Tacoma EWD it showed that it came off the cam sensor and y'ed with the crankshaft sensor negative wire. So that's what I did. Wired the cam and crankshaft negative wire together and fired up. Also I have a question. When I turn my key on my tach goes to 3k about. Then works from there. So when i should be at 1500 rpms it says 4500. I did the tach mod. Any suggestions?

Racer

Well now have a whole new problem. When I first started it it started then instantly died. So I mess with the MAF a bit and got it to stay running perfect. Ran for 30 min or so. Shut it off to hook up a couple other things and wouldn't run again. Just start the die right away like what first happened. But this time I cant get it to stay running this time. Any help please? Sorry. Thought I was done with the questions. Dang so close now.

Racer

Replaced the MAF and still same issue. Starts and instantly dies

dntsdad

Id be checking and double checking the wires in the MAF plug. They could be lose and not making contacts.

Racer

Ok thanks, I did that this morning but no change. It is just wierd how it started perfect for 30 min, shut the engine off. Went to start it 2 min later and fired right away and died. Has done that sense. Rechecked all the terminals in the ecu for the MAF, got a new MAF. Could my battery be too dead to keep it running? It has enough to turn it over and fire it but just sounds alittle weak. Charging it now. Also stock MAF, do they sit sideways? Or right side up?

Racer

Also I have no throttle response. If I press the gas it dies even quicker.

STJ Motorsports

Does anyone have a T100 engine harness for sale ?

Racer

Well I have still been at it. Still starts and dies right away. Replaced the MAF and whole air box assembly, put a brand new fuel pump, fuel pump relay. It will start and die but if I spray starting fluid it stays running. So it's not getting continuous fuel after initial start. Also Hotwired pump and didn't change run time, only about 3 seconds. If I unplug the cam sensor it also has no change. It's cold resistance is 1125. Can it start then die if cam sensor is bad? Maybe it's not giving the injectors signal. Still stumped.

Racer

Also if I start it and right before it dies I turn on and off the ignition fast, it will stay running. But I think it is the cam sensor still. Because it has NO effect if plugged in or not.

Racer

Well replaced the cam sensor and no help. It gets fuel when i crank it, then when it fires it loses the fuel. |If i turn off then in the ignition quickly it will stay running probably due to the initial spry of the injectors to start any vehicle. It will run perfect on gas down the intake tube, just dont like doing it much but it does. So it is the injectors that are not working. I have checked EVERYTHING according to wiring. Called toyonlyswaps and hes not sure. Gave me suggestions but didnt help. Im not sure what can cut the injectors off with fuel. It has new fuel pump, fuel filter, crank/cam sensors, MAF and whole air box assemble. Nothing i really do changes it except slighty runs longer if i pinch the return hose, but for another second if that. Or its just in my head. Right now i have it up for sale unless i get an epiphany and find out what it is. Thank you everyone for the responses thus far. It wouldnt have been bad at all if it had the ECU,|Harness and everything from a matching vehicle and i didnt have to piece togeher sensors. I will try it on another truck later with a FULL donor.

userx

how much are you looking to get for your truck?

Racer

I got it to stay running again for about 5 min. All I did was flip the MAF upside down then boom it ran for about 5-7 min, started idling weird then does like iTunes it off, now it's doing the same thing again. Can't win.